finally set up my LMT MWS .308

[DacoRoman]

Finally set it up!

LMT MWS .308
NF ATACR 4-16
NF lightweight Unimount

I leveled the scope using bubble levelers, one on the rail and one on top of the turret cap, and because of my OCD it took me forever, because as I torqued the scope ring screws the scope would minutely rotate until I figured out that I would keep the bubble levels on the rail/scope as I carefully torqued the ring screws.

I guess I'll have to check my work with a plumb line at distance..one of these days.

Now I have to go zero it.

Questions:

I used 25ft/lbs to torque the Vortex bubble onto the scope, is this appropriate? Just to mention it, I used the NF recommended torque settings for the rings and mount.

My scope is mounted a bit forward in the mount. Normally for the sake of attempted perfection I'd move the scope mount forward a bit and reposition the scope so that the forward rings are not as close to the turret housing, but it took me so long to mount it with the proper bubble leveling and eye relief, that I don't want to take it apart and then have to spend another 2 hours to mount it back all level and with the same eye relief...but if I have to do it I'll do it. I also tried to have the gap between the upper and lower ring pieces even on both sides, and I think it is pretty good, but I didn't use feel gauges or anything.

So, is the scope acceptably positioned in the rings?
Am I too close to the turret housing?
Do I need to get more anal about the gap in the rings, which seems pretty even using my eyeballs, and break out some feeler gauges?

If it looks good to go, it will be good news cause I'd rather just go zero.

One last line of questioning.
I have access to an indoor 100yard range. Since the reticle/turrets are mil based, normally I'd zero at 100m so that the scope adjustments and holdovers are accurate. Since 100yards is 91.44 meters, what should I do when I'm zeroing?

I'll be using IMI 175gr match ammo as that is all I have at the moment. There was a bad batch of this around 2016 I think but the lot I have was made post the bad batch per the seller's description when I bought it (SGAmmo).

Once zeroed I'm planning on using mainly holdovers and not doing a lot of dialing btw. I have the Tremor 3 reticle which I need to do a deep dive into and learn how to use the wind holds, but after my "heavy carbine" class with John McPhee a couple years ago shooting out to 600 yards, I decided I need a Horus type reticle.

Here's the Rifle:




Please share your AR10 type pics if you are willing.

[rd62]

Looks great. Sold mine a few years ago but it was the finest machined AR patern rifle I'd ever used. Very reliable too! I prefer the new lower profile rails like yours. Is that a q6 or 18"?

[HCM]

Nice.

My only suggestion is if you need a close range BUIS an small RDS is much easier and quicker to use than offset irons.

[Alembic]

Sweet carpet!

[Paul D]

Nice. What is a reasonable expectation for precision? I have an Aero M5 16 inch gun and it definitely is NOT a 1 MOA gun. With 168 grain FGMM, it is about 2 MOA consistently. I hope you report back on you groups!

[DacoRoman]

Looks great. Sold mine a few years ago but it was the finest machined AR patern rifle I'd ever used. Very reliable too! I prefer the new lower profile rails like yours. Is that a q6 or 18"?

Great to hear about your good experience with it. This is my first .308 AR. It does feel pretty solid, we'll see how it shoots soon hopefully.

It is the Standard 16" CL barrel. I may go with their 18" SS at some point but first I'll see how I do with the Standard one. I was also thinking that if I go 18" SS I may go 6.5 Creedmoor.

[HCM]

Nice. What is a reasonable expectation for precision? I have an Aero M5 16 inch gun and it definitely is NOT a 1 MOA gun. With 168 grain FGMM, it is about 2 MOA consistently. I hope you report back on you groups!

From an Aero factory gun with standard barrel ? 2 MOA is pretty good. For an LMT I’d be looking for half that with good Ammo. You get what you pay for. A different barrel might help you Aero if you want a precision gun.

There is a bit of a learning curve to shooting AR-10s for precision as well.

[DacoRoman]

Nice.

My only suggestion is if you need a close range BUIS an small RDS is much easier and quicker to use than offset irons.

Thanks for bringing that up! It's funny, I put those offset BUIS's on there just because I was supposed to I guess...but when I looked through them for the first time I was like...if something fast is charging my A$$ from 25 yards and in, or moving dynamically in any way, the BUIS's don't seem that comforting. I'm not budgeted for an RDS at this point but a used H1 and offset mount could be in my future at some point.

On that note, bad cheek weld and increased height above bore issues aside, I could see why some would opt for a mini RDS on top of the scope (the Brits on their 308 LMT's) as it must give a superior field of view without the scope blocking a sizable chunk of the left center vision, even with both eyes open. I know 3 gunners use offset sights but they know where the targets are, and have already rehearsed their shooting sequences I'm thinking.

What are your thoughts on a top mounted system?

[DacoRoman]

Sweet carpet!

Thanks man! My Dad worked overseas at some point and brought it from somewhere in the Far East, it is legit. We were gifted it when we bought a new house.

[pyrotechnic]

Your scope is going to be just fine mounted in the rings that way.

You don't need to use feeler gauges to perfectly even the ring spaces. If they look symmetrical they'll be fine.

You're not going to be able to tell the difference between a 100yd or a 100m zero. Also, mils work just fine with yards and MOA will work just fine with meters. They're both just angles.

Looks like a sweet rifle!

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk