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Thread: Any other Glock 48 fans?

  1. #141
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Can someone confirm rear sight heights (bottom of dovetail to top edge) with the G43X/G48?

    I screen grabbed a shot from a video online:

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    Video:



    In the screen grab, the Upper is G48, lower is G43X.

    Per Midway, Glock sights are marked as follows:

    Glock rear sights are identified by markings on the right side consisting of one or more horizontal bars. A single bar indicates the most common rear sight height: 6.5mm (.256 in). A long bar with a short bar beneath it indicates a 6.1mm (.240 in) height and a long bar with a short bar above will measure 6.9mm (.271 in) high. The tallest of the factory Glock rear sights is the 7.3mm (.287 in) with markings consisting of a long bar with two shorter bars above the long bar.

    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100427747/

    Looks like a G48 comes with 0.256”, and the G43X has a 0.240” rear. Is that marking convention still correct?

    My G48 I picked up a couple days ago looks like it has the 0.256" rear, with the single bar. I also held up what I believe is a regular black steel 0.256" take-off from my G19, and it looks the same (i.e. 0.256"). I'm going to shoot the G48 here at the range soon. I plan to replace the stock plastic sights and was wondering what sight heights to assume to work out the elevation, hence the question.
    Last edited by RJ; 09-17-2020 at 06:21 AM.

  2. #142
    On my 48, I have a .180 front and 6.5 rear.
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  3. #143

    Any other Glock 48 fans?

    Working on a 48 for restrictive state travel, meaning future Virginia. I managed to pick up a 48 for a reasonable price. So far, I’m massively underwhelmed.

    My main issue is the trigger. For such a small and light pistol, the trigger is way too heavy, almost NY2 level heavy. I’ve found a burr on the striker that I’ll take off when I do a fluff and buffer. Also planning to add a ghost 3.5lb connector. I wrestled with this because I generally hate aftermarket Glock internals, but this trigger is that bad. I cannot dry fire it without significant sight disturbance regardless of my grip and finger position.

    Outside of that, the recoil spring barely keeps the slide in battery. It could easily stand to be 1-2 mm longer.

    Edit: I just read the thread about the plunger not being seated in the spring. This one was also not seated in the spring. This doesn’t change it going into battery or that the recoil spring falls out of the gun when field stripped.

    Interestingly, the pistol is a mix of US an Austrian parts. The slide and frame are Austrian. The barrel is US.
    Last edited by Coyote41; 09-17-2020 at 08:19 PM.

  4. #144
    Quote Originally Posted by ccmdfd View Post
    Anyone with a 43X or 48 suffer from a painful trigger finger?

    I don't have any problems with my double stacks, but the 43X is painful after just a mag or two. Wondering if switching triggers would help.
    I hate the serrated triggers on all glocks as they irritate my finger, so on my G48 I bought an SSVI Tyr trigger shoe after many recommendations on the forum. I love it so far in dry fire and will live fire soon.

  5. #145
    Quote Originally Posted by ccmdfd View Post
    Anyone with a 43X or 48 suffer from a painful trigger finger?

    I don't have any problems with my double stacks, but the 43X is painful after just a mag or two. Wondering if switching triggers would help.
    Mine was extremely painful to shoot. The trigger blade was like a razor. I put the Apex kit in mine and it’s a joy to shoot now.

  6. #146
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by Savage Hands View Post
    I hate the serrated triggers on all glocks as they irritate my finger, so on my G48 I bought an SSVI Tyr trigger shoe after many recommendations on the forum. I love it so far in dry fire and will live fire soon.
    That Tyr trigger looks nice. It's metal (aluminum?) I believe?

    I've always been a bit mystified by why Glock radiusus (if that is the right word) the trigger shoe, looking downward. Almost all the aftermarket triggers seem to have a flatter acting surface. They all retain the trigger safety, of some kind, but it always just seemed like a better idea to have a less than round surface to act on. Your trigger finger generally being a cylinder shape anyway, rounding the shoe surface in an orthogonal direction to the trigger press axis from a mechanical engineering standpoint seems like it just reduced the area of contact further. Plus, almost every Glock trigger I've owned (G19, G26, G43X, now G48) has a trigger safety set such that when fully depressed (i.e. disengaged) it is STILL proud of the surface of the shoe itself. Which digs into my delicate, office boy trigger finger no end.

    Sure wish I could find at least a non-serrated slimline OEM-like trigger and trigger bar, but I suspect eventually I'll spring for another aftermarket trigger (yet again). Maybe I'll try Apex this time. :|

  7. #147
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    I put OEM smooth trigger shoes on my slimlines. I also contour the trigger safety on all of my Glocks to make them curved, rounded and less proud from the trigger face.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  8. #148
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by HeavyDuty View Post
    I put OEM smooth trigger shoes on my slimlines. I also contour the trigger safety on all of my Glocks to make them curved, rounded and less proud from the trigger face.
    Ken - can you briefly outline the Cliff's note for doing that? I seem to recall that the trigger shoe is held with a captive pin, but I don't see any easy way to knock it out? (maybe there is a trick to this I am thinking). TIA.

  9. #149
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Ken - can you briefly outline the Cliff's note for doing that? I seem to recall that the trigger shoe is held with a captive pin, but I don't see any easy way to knock it out? (maybe there is a trick to this I am thinking). TIA.
    It’s actually very easy, especially if you have a pin vise.

    • Locate the blind pin
    • Tap it hard enough to form a small “pimple” on the blind side using a small punch, or even a finishing nail
    • Using a wire drill in a pin vise, drill into the pimple you just formed
    • Tap the blind pin out using the hole you just made
    • Repeat for the other trigger bar
    • Reassemble



    I try to make a hole about half the diameter of the blind pin, but it’s not an exact science.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  10. #150
    @RJ My non MOS G48 both in the Silver PVD and Black came with a .200” front and .256” rear. I don't recall the 43X.

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