Sorry it is the tab, but not on connector. See below.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
Sorry, thought we were discussing a G48 issue not G3 19.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
That's why I'm so confused. Everything looks to be in order. Nothing appears to be broken and the slide lock spring has been replaced within the past year. The issue first became apparent when I would do one hand manipulations (dry) when I would rack the slide hard off of my belt buckle the slide lock would move halfway down in its slot so when I pulled the trigger the slide would come off. I've done hundreds of repetitions in live fire without issue.
Replacing the spring didn't make a difference btw.
Any Glock armorers in the SW Ohio region willing and able to take a look let me know.
Not a Glock Armorer and in a hotel tired as shit after five days on the range (tired but happy!) but I’d check the spring that pulls the trigger to the rear when the striker isn’t pushing the cruciform forward. It needs to be in a centered vertical orientation and in the notch (the spring end that’s towards the front of the pistol) or bad things happen. The spring also needs to be installed a specific way with the open ends pointed the right way. May want to check that.
I can’t figure out how to upload to imgur and edit to a normal picture size on imgur, so if this makes no sense PM me an email address and I’ll send a picture of what I’m talking about. It caused me a few headaches.
Diagnosing over the internet is often futile, but here are some suggestions after watching that Youtube vid. My thoughts aren't in any particular order other than how they came to my brain.
-obtain another slide lock spring and install. It's possible the existing one was the wrong part or somehow defective.
-might as well get a new slide-lock, too, as the price is inexpensive.
-get a new trigger mechanism housing to replace present/old one. The old one could be causing the cruciform to drop below a suitable trigger-bar/firing pin engagement.
-get an orange "inspection-only" cover plate to check TB/FP engagement. Examine firing pin and trigger-bar's cruciform for any wear or modifications.
-Check serial number to determine if you need the "+" trigger-bar for pre "EH" serial numbers. I think these were all older Gen2 guns.
-for now, use a stock Glock-brand, unmodified connector.
-My last thoughts are to examine the frame for cracking; sometimes these cracks are from the top down, causing the frame to flex too much;
-ensure the rear frame rails are present and not broken off (usually on frames in the serial number range EKx###US to EVx###US.