Beretta 92 Hammer spring weight for reliable ignition?

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

For you “high round count” 92 shooters, how often should a person dissemble slide and remove firing pin to thoroughly clean channel? It seems to me ignition reliability is dependent on a firing pin that is able to move somewhat freely.

I have had a M-92 & M-96, but have not brought them to a high round count. However, I do shoot Beretta TDAs. I have several high round count PX4s. My PX4 .45 has 98,900 rounds (until tomorrow), another PX4 .45 with 37,428 rounds, a Compact with 25,000 rounds and a couple of SubCompact PX4s with 9,000+ each, etc..

We have had no trouble with light strikes even with reduced power hammer springs and I think our cleaning patterns help bring the good result. After each shooting session I like to clean off the breech face well and under the extractor claw (in place). Naturally, other areas are cleaned, but in regards to the concern of this thread I mention that as headstamp seating will be maximized for primer penetration.

We fully disassemble the slide for detailed cleaning of the firing pin channel, firing pin, interior parts and pathways every 5,000 rounds. We disassemble and detail clean in the frame every 10,000 rounds. While .45s run dirtier and accumulate more carbon, the .40s and 9 mms also get quite dirty in there. We are experimenting with taking our Compact 9 past 10,000 rounds or 15,000 to see what we can get away with using varied ammo sources. However, this Compact will not be used for any defensive use because of this.

These parts have seen 5,000 rounds

[JonInWA]

Balancing and assessing your, Hambo and my experiences and results, in retrospect I'll change my recommendation for extractor/extractor channel cleaning to every 2K-5K rounds.

My suspicion is that you guys are right about deferring getting into the extractor area until at least 5K, but I'll continue to suggest that a 92 user might want to go in at the 2K (or somewhere between 2K and 5K) as an initial baseline check/cleanout so you can see how your specific cartridges' GSR residues attach.

Alternatively, an annual cleanout probably isn't a bad idea. But you really need to have a feel for how dirty your cartridges are, as that can be a driving factor in establishing the cleaning interval selection-especially regarding the extractor and extractor channel.

Even though the firing pin and firing pin channel is co-located with, and exposed to the extractor channel, it's the extractor and extractor channel that'll likely see the bulk of the grunge deposits.

Best, Jon

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

An afterthought that might apply to the subject: I also clean the front face of the hammer and rearmost impact surface on the slide each time I have shot. This can stop buildup from cushioning the hammer's fall.

[JSGlock34]

I have several high round count PX4s. My PX4 .45 has 98,900 rounds (until tomorrow), another PX4 .45 with 37,428 rounds, a Compact with 25,000 rounds and a couple of SubCompact PX4s with 9,000+ each, etc...We have had no trouble with light strikes even with reduced power hammer springs and I think our cleaning patterns help bring the good result.

I find it interesting that while the 92 and PX4 have many similarities and can even exchange some components (notably hammers and hammer springs for this discussion), the PX4 enjoys greater ignition reliability with reduced power hammer springs despite employing a lighter weight hammer.

Clearly there is more to ignition reliability than just spring power and hammer weights.

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

I find it interesting that while the 92 and PX4 have many similarities and can even exchange some components (notably hammers and hammer springs for this discussion), the PX4 enjoys greater ignition reliability with reduced power hammer springs despite employing a lighter weight hammer.

Clearly there is more to ignition reliability than just spring power and hammer weights.

Agreed!

[Medusa]

An afterthought that might apply to the subject: I also clean the front face of the hammer and rearmost impact surface on the slide each time I have shot. This can stop buildup from cushioning the hammer's fall.

Same.

[JonInWA]

Yup. Ditto.

Best, Jon

[PX4 Storm Tracker]

...Even though the firing pin and firing pin channel is co-located with, and exposed to the extractor channel, it's the extractor and extractor channel that'll likely see the bulk of the grunge deposits.

Agreed! There is a good connection here. When a primer is ignited the case is pushed back and covers, if not fills (depending upon chamber pressures) the firing pin hole. Debris and carbon are less likely to enter the firing pin channel at this point (a blown primer being the exception). I have found in cleaning firing pins and channels that carbons and debris seem to enter from under the extractor.
When a pistol is fired the extractor does not pull the brass out. The brass pushes the slide back. When the case hits the ejector it gets pushed to the ejection port and the extractor directs its path by way of resistance. The extractor is opened to its fullest point as the case is leaving and exhausts are pushing rearward. So, the biggest "dumping" of carbons gets pushed under the extractor, but force, just when it is the most open. This is most of what gets in the firing pin channel.

So, Yes... cleaning out the extractor channel is directly related to keeping the firing pin cleaner.

[JonInWA]

And for those with F and G models that approach the disassembly and reassembly of the safety/decocker levers with fear and loathing, an alternative approach would be to drift out the extractor retention pin,remove the extractor and extractor spring, and flood the extractor channel with your cleaning solution/spray of choice; the firing pin/firing pin chamber is open to the extractor channel, so there's a point of entrance and egress.

Use canned air to remove and dry, and then apply lube-Beretta lubrication protocol calls for applying a drop of lube to the firing pin hole in the breech and to the back of the firing pin at the rear of the slide-as I mentioned earlier, I highly recommend a dry-film lubricant for the area.

Remember to stake the extractor hole at the top of the slide after everything's reasssembled to preclude the extractor pin from drifting itself out when subject to recoil forces/vibration. A couple of light blows with a punch or a tool steel screwdriver is all that's needed-not much metal needs to be displaced.

And DON'T do this cleaning process in an area not protected from the resultant mess unless contained (ESPECIALLY if you're using spray products.....a dry-cleaning bag as a protectant "bubble" probably would be a good start...

Best, Jon

[JSGlock34]

How would a lighter weight (e.g. titanium) firing pin affect ignition in a 92?