@newyork read this ^^^. Once you get the optic and are more or less seeing the dot, try that. I’m definitely an over thinker as well, but shooting the dot doesn’t really appear that complicated. Put dot on target, press trigger, reacquire target.
@newyork read this ^^^. Once you get the optic and are more or less seeing the dot, try that. I’m definitely an over thinker as well, but shooting the dot doesn’t really appear that complicated. Put dot on target, press trigger, reacquire target.
My two guesses on what will be tough are
1. Finding it on the draw in a time less than 5 mins lol
2. Not completely losing it during recoil
I think I should have it Friday night and sight it in Monday after work.
I’m told a 10yd sight in is fine but that seemed close. I’m shit at 25 with irons. Where should sight in be for a carry gun with a dot?
The aggregate error of sighting a pistol dot between 10, 15, 20 and 25 yards is very small due to the low deck height of the optic on a pistol slide.
When I asked, most folks suggested 10 or 15 yards, then confirm at 25. But I’ll defer to the more experienced guys, for sure.
I can post my spreadsheet analysis if you want.
You will get answers for various uses. For my uses, all my carry and competition pistols are set up for a 25 meter zero. 10 meters basically gives me one ragged hole with just about everything from 115-150 grains, but 25 off a bench shows clear differences not only with projectile weight, but from brand to brand, with a minimum of ammo expended for the purpose. So, I prefer a zero at 25.
Arguments can certainly be made for 10- particularly for a purely offhand zero with less ammo expended.
I use a 25 yard zero for pistols, shotguns with slugs and pistol caliber carbines.
By the way, the ROTD method works especially well for me shooting with one hand.
Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.
You guys typically cover your target with the dot or rest the chosen target on top of the dot?
I cover mine. This works particularly well for me, with concentric-ring zeroing targets.
I really don’t have direct knowledge of anyone setting up red dots differently, but I’m sure there may be exceptions. Remember, we shoot the dot with a target focus, and the benefit of the dot being focused at infinity means it is the same sharpness as the target.
“bullseye” lollipop sight pictures with a hard front sight focus really don’t have relevance to the red dot, unless perhaps a person has a case of the “yips” and can’t break the trigger if there’s something covering the impact point.
When precision shooting the red dot on a silhouette or non-concentric target, it’s important to “pick a spot” on the target, and drive the dot to that spot. I see a lot of people shooting at the general shape and getting big groups- always pick a spot if you want tight groups with the dot.
"When precision shooting the red dot on a silhouette or non-concentric target, it’s important to “pick a spot” on the target, and drive the dot to that spot. I see a lot of people shooting at the general shape and getting big groups- always pick a spot if you want tight groups with the dot."
This. For certain.