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Thread: What are the "best" pistol cleaning products?

  1. #31
    Member Greg's Avatar
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    Jul 2015
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    Utah
    The absolute cleanest I've ever gotten pistols or AR BCGs is with Simple Green. The stuff works wonders on carbon and greasy gunk.
    I don't clean my guns to this level very often.


    I've heard it is tough on aluminum so proceed with caution.
    Don’t blame me. I didn’t vote for that dumb bastard.

  2. #32
    Site Supporter
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    Apr 2015
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    PA
    I have had very good results wit the Lucas Extreme duty products including the oil. CLP, bore solvent, and grease.

  3. #33
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    Sep 2017
    Location
    South Louisiana
    Back when I carried an autoloader with full-length guide rails (1911, Beretta 92, CZ-75) I used grease on the rails (Slide Guide Lite) and whatever gun oil I had on other moving parts. The bores got Hoppe's #9. Current designs with nubs for guide rails (PX4, Walther P99C, and M&P) just get oil for lube; I tend to be more generous with oil on the PX4. I've used grease with the M&Ps with no ill effects, haven't tried it with the PX4 and Walther. The bores still get Hoppe's.

    When I shoot my carry gun, I field strip it, wipe it down with a paper towel or tissue, run a bore snake through the barrel twice, re-lube it, put it back together, reload it and holster.

  4. #34
    Site Supporter MGW's Avatar
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    May 2012
    Location
    Kansas
    I use Liberty CLP (switching to HLP on the next order) and Liberty grease. A bore snake and a tooth brush gets most of the gunk out after a range day. Hoppes for the bore if it needs it. I don’t detail clean my hand guns very often and usually just add a dab of CLP before range sessions.
    “If you know the way broadly you will see it in everything." - Miyamoto Musashi

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    The absolute cleanest I've ever gotten pistols or AR BCGs is with Simple Green. The stuff works wonders on carbon and greasy gunk.
    I don't clean my guns to this level very often.


    I've heard it is tough on aluminum so proceed with caution.
    I’ve seen it turn aluminum purple.
    #RESIST

  6. #36
    I have an assortment of oils and greases, in part due to finding them on sale, closeout, etc. I am slowly working through and comparing what I think is best, but don't see a lot of real difference. Some do have lower operating temps (tw25b verses superlube, as an example), and that might make a difference depending on where you live.

    I am tempted to try just straight mineral oil, since it is the basis of so many of them.
    Leaving this here as a reminder to myself, I need to check out the ultrasonic thread, as mine has been used pretty much for lawmower carburettors in the last few years. I wonder about it and night sights.

  7. #37
    Brake cleaner is totally obnoxious if you can't use it outside. If you use it in the garage, it might stink up your whole house. Don't fire it off in the basement. Don't breathe it. Don't get it on your skin. I would say it requires a little more aggressive PPE than some other cleaning products.

    FYI
    It works great on yellow jackets too, just watch your overspray.

  8. #38
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Location
    Central FL
    Quote Originally Posted by cornstalker View Post
    Brake cleaner is totally obnoxious if you can't use it outside. If you use it in the garage, it might stink up your whole house. Don't fire it off in the basement. Don't breathe it. Don't get it on your skin. I would say it requires a little more aggressive PPE than some other cleaning products.

    FYI
    It works great on yellow jackets too, just watch your overspray.
    I use non-chlorinated. No VOCs.

    Still highly flammable though, so definitely outside, and definitely w gloves.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    I use non-chlorinated. No VOCs.
    So do I. All of what I said still applies. Especially the part about the yellow jackets. Lol.

    http://docs.crcindustries.com/msds/75086E.pdf

  10. #40
    I have yet to find any disposable gloves that seem to hold up to brake cleaner... and having used it a lot in the past at my old work, I try to avoid it now. I have heard it said that spraying it on your bare skin is like spraying a garden hose at a screen door: the chemicals basically go right into your body. That may be bullshit, but it will tear up/dry out your skin terribly if its something you use often. It also does strip ALL the oil from metal parts, so you have to re-lube unless you want rust. It is nice if you have something intricate you don't want to tear apart, but want to clean/degrease, like an AR lower/trigger/hammer. Catching the runoff and disposing of it/letting it evaporate can be problematic. It is also nice for cleaning out bore brushes after use.

    I have two quart bottles of Breakfree CLP I snagged for a song way back when, and it seems to do an okay job for routine cleaning/lube. I think I have almost used up the first bottle in the last 20 years or so. If I was going to start all over again, I'd probably buy M-Pro7 for cleaner... and wear gloves more often when cleaning. I have used Ballistol a bit, and many other gun lubes/oils/greases/snake oil.... I even have a bottle of Fireclean (which is the only lube I've used that gummed up terribly in storage). A good copper remover is handy for heavily fouled bores, as is something like Kroil for heavy carbon and lead fouling.

    None of the stuff out there is magic... buy what is cheap, smells less/nice, works for your guns, and don't stress too much about what is "best"... IMHO.

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