Glock questions. I instaled a new spring kit and connecter.

[dolphin62]

I have a glock 17 generation 3 that I bought in April. For the most part I like the gun and shot a lot of ammo in it over the summer, I shoot pretty good with it but don't always hit the target with the accuracy that I would like. A fellow at the pistol glub looked at it and told me the trigger pull was to heavy at 6.0 pounds and that it could be the problem. He told me ABOUT ghost connecters ( the edge) and putting some new springs. I orderd a kit from ghost which contained 2 fireing pin springs, 4 pound and 6 pound, a heavy trigger spring and a lightweight safety spring. He also told me to use some gun butter grease which should make the gun shoot smoother and should reduce the pull some.

I installed the 4 pound firing pin spring, the heavy trigger spring and the light weight safety pin spring along with the edge connector. I tested the trigger pull after and it was reading 3 pounds and very smooth. I could not waite to try the gun out. It shot much nicer and smoother with much more accuracy. I only shot it with only 1 or 2 shells in the magazine to make sure it worked ok. Then I would shoot it with my normal 5 in the magazine.

The problem I had after shooting about 30 rounds is that I would sometimes get what seemed like 2 rounds shooting very quickly with out me really pulling the trigger. I thought it might have been me keeping my finger on the trigger and pulling it and not realizing it. It made me very nervous and it happened a few times. I thought it may have been from shooting 2 many rounds and getting a little to confident or that the pull is to light and I am not use to it yet.

The questions I have is could this be because of the springs being to light, especialy the safety pin spring, or the edge connector is not the right type of connecter to use for this spring kit. To make a short storie I went home and put in the 6 pound fire pin spring and replaced the safety pin spring back with the original one. The trigger pull is now at 5 pounds and it still seems to be much smoother than it was when the gun was unaltered. I was thinking of maybe getting a 5 pound spring and seeing if that would help to reduce it the pull a little.

Has anyone had any of these problems when they installed any spring kits I would be greatfull for any feedback.

[JodyH]

If you change the trigger bar you really need to verify cruciform to striker engagement with an armorers slide plate.
Google "Glock trigger engagement" for pictures and how to.

BTW: it's you that needs adjustment not the pistol.
Chasing software problems with hardware fixes is an exercise in futility until you know for sure the software is bug free.

[CCT125US]

Please take your Glock to a certified armorer, have them return it to stock condition. Sign up for a course from a respected trainer. Don't take advice from a "fellow" who says 6lbs is too heavy for a trigger.

[dolphin62]

Please take your Glock to a certified armorer, have them return it to stock condition. Sign up for a course from a respected trainer. Don't take advice from a "fellow" who says 6lbs is too heavy for a trigger.

I willtake your advise. I have always said that free advise you pay thousands for, in this case I only paid 30 dollars in parts for springs and a connector.

[JAH 3rd]

I purchased my first 9mm Glock in December. Model 17 gen 5 with Glock night sights. This pistol has the best stock trigger of any striker-fired pistol I have. It is slightly better than the M&P 2.0 45 acp I have. I went to the range yesterday and shot another 136 rounds of Federal 115gr fmj through it. Up to 444 trouble-free rounds now.

The best way I can describe the trigger pull on the 17 is : 1) Take up the trigger slack until you hit the wall. 2) The pull through the wall is a light, rolling break, then let off. It is very shooter friendly. I have no desire to get the trigger pull any lighter.

I hope you get your Glock figured out. I have tried in the past to get the lightest trigger pull on a firearm, only to have other issues pop-up.

[JodyH]

Until you can hit a 2" bullseye 100% of the time (5+ shots) at 7 yards with a stock Glock, you don't need to be changing out anything.
Once you have enough skill to hit a 2" bullseye at 7 yards 100% of the time you'll come to the realization that you don't need to change anything.

2" @ 7Y 100% is what I consider to be a decent shooter with some understanding of shooting fundamentals..
90% of the people at the range can't meet that standard on their best day with their favorite pistol.

Bump that out to 15 yards and you have a really solid shooter.

[dolphin62]

I purchased my first 9mm Glock in December. Model 17 gen 5 with Glock night sights. This pistol has the best stock trigger of any striker-fired pistol I have. It is slightly better than the M&P 2.0 45 acp I have. I went to the range yesterday and shot another 136 rounds of Federal 115gr fmj through it. Up to 444 trouble-free rounds now.

The best way I can describe the trigger pull on the 17 is : 1) Take up the trigger slack until you hit the wall. 2) The pull through the wall is a light, rolling break, then let off. It is very shooter friendly. I have no desire to get the trigger pull any lighter.

I hope you get your Glock figured out. I have tried in the past to get the lightest trigger pull on a firearm, only to have other issues pop-up.

I must have pushed the wrong box sorry

[CWM11B]

In the FWIW department, I routinely take the Glock armorers course every couple of years and last year did the two day advanced, even though I've never been issued one, and until my recent acquisition of a G43 rarely carried one. I do own and shoot 19s, 17s, and a 34 and in the past owned a 20 and 23. I do it because the gun is so damn prolific and many folks I trained have them. In 20 + years of being around them, outside of G22 WML issues, the only Glocks I've seen choke and puke are those stuffed full of aftermarket parts installed by self trained gun plumbers. With very few exceptions, stock parts are the way to go. Personally, I only use the tango down Vickers mag floorplates with mine. I have no experience with the SCD, but believe that to be very worthy of consideration. Sights are also aftermarket. Everything else on mine are OEM.

[GearFondler]

Until you can hit a 2" bullseye 100% of the time (5+ shots) at 7 yards with a stock Glock, you don't need to be changing out anything.
Once you have enough skill to hit a 2" bullseye at 7 yards 100% of the time you'll come to the realization that you don't need to change anything.

2" @ 7Y 100% is what I consider to be a decent shooter with some understanding of shooting fundamentals..
90% of the people at the range can't meet that standard on their best day with their favorite pistol.

Bump that out to 15 yards and you have a really solid shooter.

Just trying to get a full understanding of your criteria...

- Is this untimed slow fire or rapid fire?
- Is this from the holster or in hand?

Thanks.

[Darth_Uno]

In 20 + years of being around them, outside of G22 WML issues, the only Glocks I've seen choke and puke are those stuffed full of aftermarket parts installed by self trained gun plumbers. With very few exceptions, stock parts are the way to go.

Same. Connectors haven’t seemed to be an issue, but I run factory minus connectors in all mine. When I got sold on making the trigger “better” on various Glocks I had double taps like OP, failure to reset, light strikes...went back to stock and all problems were solved.

If you want to tune your gun, go for it. Especially if the only penalty is that it barfs in a match. For anything you carry, the trade off isn’t worth it.

Members here have won a Turbo Pin with, if I recall, basically almost stock weapons. So...it ain’t always the arrow.


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