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Thread: Colt Resurrecting the Python?

  1. #561
    Site Supporter Crazy Dane's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyoming Shooter View Post
    I've fondled a couple new production Pythons. I will buy one. The trigger serrations and sharp edges bother me. Has anyone smoothed the trigger face and edges? If so, how did you go about it? Thanks very much.

    I got as far as having the trigger clamped in the vice and the rotary tool of destruction in hand whirring. I chickened out. Maybe one day and enough ginÖ

  2. #562
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wyoming Shooter View Post
    I've fondled a couple new production Pythons. I will buy one. The trigger serrations and sharp edges bother me. Has anyone smoothed the trigger face and edges? If so, how did you go about it? Thanks very much.


    Using the lightest touch with any tool will make the job go slow, but safely. 👍

  3. #563
    Quote Originally Posted by Crazy Dane View Post
    I got as far as having the trigger clamped in the vice and the rotary tool of destruction in hand whirring. I chickened out. Maybe one day and enough ginÖ
    Considering sending mine to Frank Glenn for several modifications to include smoothing the trigger face, cut serrations on the back strap, honing and numbering the charge holes (consistently have one hole that empty brass hangs up in) and an action smoothing (I feel the trigger pull could be lighter). Still waiting on a grip from Hogue.

  4. #564
    Site Supporter Rex G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FrankB View Post


    Using the lightest touch with any tool will make the job go slow, but safely. 👍
    He makes it look so easy. I learned, the hard way, in the Eighties, that I should never free-hand a grinding tool, of any kind. IIRC, I used the exact same attachments and tool, and, well, letís just say it is a good thing that I decided to buy a take-out trigger, from a gun show, to try to learn, first.
    Retaríd LE. Kinesthetic dufus.

    Donít tread on volcanos!

  5. #565
    Site Supporter FrankB's Avatar
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    @Rex G
    Larry Potter says heís resting his hand on the vise, but even that can be tricky for many. I use Dremel tools that have super slow rotation ability. Colt wonít sell parts to the public, so itís not a piece to learn on for sure.

  6. #566
    Site Supporter S Jenks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S Jenks View Post
    I also ordered a NOS, two-piece Pachmayer I Frame ďCI Small GripĒ off Ebay which is the same dimensions front-to-back but about 10mm thinner side-to-side. They certainly feel better in the hand but Iím noticing some front sight wobble during the trigger break. Iím going to shoot with both at my next range session and go from there.
    Much, much better. The other day I was regularly hitting 2Ē circles at 10 yards, double action. No readjusting my grip, the McMaster-Carr replacement set screw didnít loosen, the green FO front sight was easy to pick up and my Kirkpatrick OWB is arriving tomorrow.

  7. #567
    Quote Originally Posted by Rex G View Post
    He makes it look so easy. I learned, the hard way, in the Eighties, that I should never free-hand a grinding tool, of any kind. IIRC, I used the exact same attachments and tool, and, well, letís just say it is a good thing that I decided to buy a take-out trigger, from a gun show, to try to learn, first.
    Well there's always the other method. Files, sandpaper and polish. Contrary to popular opinion powered tools aren't mandatory to achieving good results.

    Here's an example. I refurbed an old and well used Delta Unisaw (tablesaw) and moved the table extension to the other side of the main table. It needed a bevel on the leading edge I thought. This was done with nothing more than draw filing with a bastard file. It took about 20 minutes or so. If would have had a double cut file on hand I could have done it in 1/3 of the time. Pic is while I was in process but was on the way to finishing it. I wanted a nice flat straight'ish bevel to match up with the rest of the table and didn't want to try that with the grinder. Same thing could be done on a trigger but it's definitly going to take longer. I've got about 3 of them to do myself as I can't stand serrated triggers either.

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  8. #568
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    Perhaps a Dremel workstation would help?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #569
    Firmly in the FWIW columnÖ

    I picked up a Python 4.25 last week, having wanted an example for decades now. The date on the trigger tag was 9/9/2021. Iím rationalizing this admittedly irrational purchase as wanting to have a nice training tool for trigger work, and it was $100 under MSRP.

    Have put 250 rounds of 158 grain jacketed AE .357 Mag and 250 rounds of AE .38 spl ball through it as well as couple of boxes each of Golden Sabers, Hornady, and the last of my ancient Hydrashoks. Everything went bang with zero drama. Itís a darn lightning bolt.

    The DA action breaks at 8 pounds 4 ounces, the SA breaks (with zero visible travel or overtravel) like the proverbial glass rod at 4 pounds 10 ounces, which is a bit on the heavy side, but it pops every primer and I get one ragged hole at 10 yards with everything I have run through it, and 4Ē groups all day long at 25 yards in DA on my hind legs, which is pretty good, for me. It cleans up nicely, too.

    I have access to a 70ís era hardly-shot 6Ē Python in Royal Blue, and while the SA is sublime on that example, the DA stacks like a Ö stacky thing. Not on this new one.

    Further to my irrationality, Iím really tempted to carry this puppy in the holster Rob Leahy is building for me, with a couple of Safariland Comp IIís filled with some Underwood hollowpointsÖ but I will do my best to remain rational. Iíll really, really try.

    (And, I suppose that if I were to dual-wield the Python with my ancient 686, the Earth might stand still due to the counterrotation of the cylinders, so I will definitely refrain from that.)

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  10. #570
    The 4.25Ē is my prized possession of all that I own.

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