Blue 2011 RAV4 and silver 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The RAV4 is the problem child.Originally Posted by JM Campbell
Blue 2011 RAV4 and silver 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The RAV4 is the problem child.
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https://amazon.com/Meguiars-Microfib...7213345&sr=8-4
https://amazon.com/Meguiars-Microfib...s+micro&sr=8-4
https://amazon.com/Meguiars-Microfib...iber+co&sr=8-3
https://amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-G...7213518&sr=8-5
I’ve had great results using the microfiber compound and both the cutting and polishing discs. Most of the secret to getting good results is the “working time” of the compound/polish and keeping the discs/pads clean. The microfiber discs must be kept fluffy and not become caked with product. After buffing a 2’x2’ section of a panel use compressed air to blow out the pad/disc then reapply 3-5 dime size dots of compound/polish.
You can actually cut very fast with the microfiber compound with the finishing disc/pad with the right pressure, speed and technique. Then clean, reapply and with less pressure on the buffer get a very refined finish. Kinda a one step using the same pad but in 2 different ways.
The 105 is going to cut a lot faster with the compound disc but would caution against it with the older paint on the rav4 with it also having predominantly thinner clear coat then the Jeep.
The older 3D product line has HD Polish and HD Cut, if you can find them they work extremely well with the Meguiar microfiber curing and polishing discs. 3D does have a newer compound and polish
https://www.autoality.com/store/pc/v...idcategory=320
https://www.autoality.com/store/pc/v...idcategory=320
Use the same technique noted above.
Cut small IE use the lowest combo first to see what results you get. Polish and polish pad, then polish and cutting pad. Compound and polish pad...compound and cutting pad. You can’t go back just forward on the cut scale.
For a long term protection I like the CarPro CQuartz UK ceramic coating. Easy to use and not as temp/humidity sensitive during install.
https://amazon.com/CarPro-CQuartz-UK...rPro+UK&sr=8-4
If your up to try new products, the Meguiars wax that was mentioned earlier in the thread does look to be promising just not a very long term. It will never protect as much as a true ceramic coating (thickness) but should protect with maintenance applications and a good wash practice that will not cause scratches.
Wish I was in the area, it’s so much easier showing then writing about the process and techniques for best results.
Hit me up if you have any other questions.
Last edited by JM Campbell; 12-24-2019 at 02:31 PM.
AKA: SkyLine1
Wow, mucho thanks!
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Honestly I wouldn't recommend starting off in paint correction on you own cars. You can pick up some hoods or trunk lids at the junk yard to practice on first. Your clear coat is thinner that a paper receipt and any abrasive correction is removing clear coat.
There are DAT and SMAT compounds. DATs are diminishing abrasives and the abrasive particles break down in use. The upside is that if you get it right it's pretty hard to burn through your clear coat. The downside is that once you start, you don't stop and you have to get it right the first time. SMATs are micro abrasives. The upside is that you can start, stop, asses, and add compound. The downside is that if you start too aggressive or go too long, bye bye clear coat. I think SMATs are the way to go.
I think HD Speed, a short throw orbiter and white pad like these, would be a good starting place. The most important thing here is that when you think you are 75% of the way to good enough just fucking quit. After that the important thing is investing in quality microfibers and cleaning products to prevent swirls and damage again.
LL check you PMs
Last edited by txdpd; 12-24-2019 at 04:01 PM.
Whether you think you can or you can't, you're probably right.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NZL6M6..._vYSaEb8DRHGA6
This is the best bang for the buck sealant wise. I easily get 8 months of protection. I would not recommend a ceramic coating unless you have a garage and excellent lighting to detect high spots.
As far as soap goes I like meguiars hyperwash, 3D pink soap, and Adams car soap.
I’ve gotten away from traditional paste wax. Winters in Texas are mild and 3 weeks without an opportunity to wash the car would be a really long time.
I wash the cars every two weeks at most. Mostly I use the “Gary Dean” no rinse method and follow up with Meguiars Express synthetic wax. Basically wipe a section with no-rinse, and follow up with wax as a drying aid. I also like Optimum spray wax.
Spray waxes are very easy to apply and won’t stain trim, and the wash out a micro fibers . Downside is that they don’t last very long.
https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-xpress-spray-wax.html
https://www.autogeek.net/opnoriwash12.html
Last edited by txdpd; 12-25-2019 at 12:58 PM.
Whether you think you can or you can't, you're probably right.
I also RW when I’m to lazy to bring out the foam cannon and buckets. I use optimum spray wax as a drying aid as well but still prefer having more protection for bird etchings and hard water spots. I have found Optimum beads wells but offers little protection from etching.
Fixing to pick up the Harbor Freight polisher and go to town, thanks to this thread
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Keep hearing talk of the foam cannon, is it worth it?
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I think so, plus it’s fun to use.
Our vehicles get pretty dirty in the winter between snow, salt and sanded roads. Usual mild day protocol is a quick water rinse with the cheap electric pressure washer, then coat in foam (Meg’s Gold Class). If in a hurry, let it soak a few then rinse in two directions and call it done. If I have time, rinse, refoam and wash with microfiber mitt, then rinse.
Level of effort depends on weather, temperature and how dirty the starting point is.
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