The FN/Browning High Power-Revisited Part One

[JonInWA]

There have been some good discussions of it on the 1911forum.com in the High Power portion; consensus seems to be that the .357 SIG barrels need to be professionally fitted, but work fine in a cast-frame .40 MK III.

And, in times of the critical ammuniition shortage such as we're experiencing, it's interesting to note that .357 SIG is still relatively easily obtainable (at least in my neck of the woods (Seattle metro area), albeit expensive-I've paid from $23 to $32 for a box of 50. Best cartridges seem to be Sellier & Bellot, Fiocchi, and SIG for ball, and Speer Golt Dots and Hornady for defensive carry.

Given the price of .357 SIG, I don't know or haven't heard of anyone running it extremely extensively, so I probably wouldn't pour thousands of rounds through a High Power with it, but it sounds like generally speaking the .40 is beefed up sufficiently for it for at least moderate use.

Best, Jon

[JonInWA]

For the past several years, BH Spring Solutions has been methodically whittling away at characteristics of the FN/Browning High Power that constrained its performance compared to more contemporary pistols. Their key approach has first been to approach spring improvement and replacement from a holistic standpoint, and then to both concurrently and sequentially offer improved components and tools to also improve the use and user friendliness of the platform. As we've seen here, using my FN .40 Mk III High Power, I've had an opportunity to experience and share my opinions of their approaches and components.

Recently, I was provided two prototype BH Spring Solutions component sets-an improved trigger system, and a magwell/grip combination.

Here's the High Power with them installed:



The trigger system was intriguing-it's comprised of a broad-flanged trigger (with upcoming otions including serrated, smooth, or gold-plated-mine is the serrated version), a revised set of trigger return springs (I choose the heavier "tactical" variant), and a geometrically revised trigger lever). There is also an optional magazine "pusher" spring which I discussed with BH partner Mark Allen, he recommended I not install it, at least initially, as it would be a bit superflous to mine, as my magazine disconnect has been removed, and magazines are now drop-free; it might be beneficial to those electing to retain the magazine safety system, however.

The key to the system is the revised trigger lever, which changes the position and angle at which the trigger pull induces the lever to push on the sear lever, which then activates the sear to release the hammer. Historically, some advanced gunsmiths had provided a revised triggerpull was by physically reloacating internal components, resulting is a second hole being drilled through the slide to revise the sear lever's positioning. The BH Spring Solution's approach has been to favorably alter the geometry of the trigger lever, incorporating a 90 degree lateral "jog" in the lever before it goes into its vertical ascent, enabling a repositioning of where it physically impacts on the sear lever, providing an improved action-in terms of both trigger pull and hammer release. It provides a very nice, smooth, grit-less pull, with the wall and release being crisp and distinct.





The trigger pad incorporates a flange, similar to the later flanged triggers FN provided to High Powers in the latter years of production, but to my eye this flange is broader (but does not protrude outside of the trigger guard's parameters). My trigger is serratated, but the serrations are neither sharp nor objectionable, and the increased finger pad area is an improvement over the original FN narrow trigger, both in terms of feel and control.





I did have my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R in Kent, WA install the trigger system. He did need to mill about five thousands of an inch off the trigger sides to obtain a smooth trigger fit with no interfearance or rubbing against the frame, but otherwise he found the installation to be very straightforward. He, as does BH SS, recommends some gentle polishing and rounding of the components; BH SS has a good video in the works thoroughly covering installation and nuances of the kit.

Next is an ingeniously designed drop-in magwell assembly. The magwell itself is aluminum, and slides on the lower receiver, and is retained by the aluminum grips, which feature smooth polished and lacquered wood inserts, similar to some of the high end grip options offered by BH SS.





The magwell set is one of two prototypes in the country-the other one is in the alternative black finish.

The assembly consists of 4 components-the magwell, 2 aluminum grips with wood inserts and with screws, and magazine basepads. That's it. Absolutely no frame, finish or gunsmithing required for installation, altough to get the best final fit, a nylon hammer is recommended to tap the magwell in place after intially positioning on the receiver, and then securing by installing the grips.

Some caveats: The magwell kit absolutely requires the provided extended basepads, and magazine tubes with the "mousetrap spring" will not work, nor will OEM High Power basepads-they simply won't fit in the magwell. BH SS was only able to provide me with 2 of the kit extended basepads, but I decided to campaign the gun in an IDPA match, figuring that with 21 rounds available (my .40 magazine capacity is 10 rounds per magazine), I could effectively compete, with the potential for each stage in effect being a "Limited" stage for me-shooting simply the proscribed minimums per target, with no, or very, very limited spare shots available).

The upshot (no pun intended) was that I did just fine capacity-wise. I don't recall ever shooting both magazines to completion, so that aspect of the match went just fine. I really like the two improvement areas; triggerpull was smooth and controlled, and a major hinderance to the High Power's capabilities (a constrained speed reload capability due to the square and unbeveled original receiver magwell shape) has been exceptionally improved upon by high quality a drop in, bolt-on assembly.

Aesthetically, I prefer a High Power in it's original configuration regarding the magwell, but that's me (and my opion might be revised when I have a chance to see it with the black magwell kit)-and operationally reloads are massively improved with the improved magwell assembly. The trigger kit is superb, and ingenious.

I'm impressed, and will continue to test in upcoming matches and use.

Best, Jon

[Chuck Whitlock]

has anyone here converted a .40 to a .357 sig? I was given a HP .357 sig barrel 10 years ago when buddy closed his gun shop. I recently found an unfired .40 HP. I hate .40 but if I could get it to run with .357 sig it might be worth it. I just don't know if the gun itself could handle it.

There have been some good discussions of it on the 1911forum.com in the High Power portion; consensus seems to be that the .357 SIG barrels need to be professionally fitted, but work fine in a cast-frame .40 MK III.

And, in times of the critical ammuniition shortage such as we're experiencing, it's interesting to note that .357 SIG is still relatively easily obtainable (at least in my neck of the woods (Seattle metro area), albeit expensive-I've paid from $23 to $32 for a box of 50. Best cartridges seem to be Sellier & Bellot, Fiocchi, and SIG for ball, and Speer Golt Dots and Hornady for defensive carry.

Given the price of .357 SIG, I don't know or haven't heard of anyone running it extremely extensively, so I probably wouldn't pour thousands of rounds through a High Power with it, but it sounds like generally speaking the .40 is beefed up sufficiently for it for at least moderate use.

Best, Jon

As Jon has mentioned before that the .40 BHP's convert nicely to 9mm, this would be a much more elegant 3-caliber option than any Glock.

[JonInWA]

After installation, extensive dryfiring and a live fire exercise, capped with participation in 2 IDPA matches, the extended magwell kit is enroute back to Mark and Slav at BH Spring Solutions (The prototype trigger kit will remain in, for long-term {and likely permanant} testing and use). Here are my thoughts and conclusions to date (and with appreciation to Mark and Slav for allowing me to wring it out the very rare (only 2 in country at this point) prototype magwell kit over an extended period):





-The magwell kit is very effective and truly is a non-gunsmithing slide on, bolt in application. It does not damage the receiver frame, both structurally or finish-wise during installation, use and removal.

-You really need a nylon hammer to tap both the magwell and the supplied basepads into place.

-The magwell, at least in the prototype form that I tested will not allow for magazine tubes with a mousetrap spring, and absolutely necessitates use of the supplied extended basepads

-Using a standard magazine with a regular baseplate does not allow the magazine to be inserted high enough in the receiver to allow the magazine latch to click in, similarly, the topmost cartridge cannot be reached by the slide stripper rail to chamber. The fly in the ointment is the OEM baseplate; it's slightly protrusive front lip projection blocks sufficient insertion into the receiver with the magwell installed

-The supplied extended aluminum basepad's bottoms are flush with the extended magwell bottom when seated, and have minimal texturing-more decorative than effective. When executing a tactical reload during one of the matches, with the partially expended magazine in my hand along with the reload magazine, I exerted insufficient force on the reload magazine to sufficiently allow it to be locked in by the magazine latch. I strongly recommended that a more aggresive texturing be applied to the bottom of the basepads, and that they be physically extended so that they protrude beyond the magwell's bottom plane to allow for more positive reloading; I'm pleased with the Check-Mate produced SIG contract magazines for the P320, which I'm concurrently testing-they both have a very aggressive diamond-checkering incorporated in the basepad botom, and protrude beyond the plane of my P320 X-Carry frame:




-I think it would be pragmatic to have some thumbnail niches incorporated either into the sides or front of the magwell to facilitate a leveraged removal of magazines that are stuck in the gun, as can happed during a double-feed malfunction.

-The magwell kit will largely appeal to the Mk III High Power owner who participates in IDPA/USPSA or similar. Operationally it's superb, asthetically, it can be a bit jarring to High Power collectors fixed on the OEM appearance of the High Power.
A number of extremely experienced shooter whom I let handle the High Power with the Magwell/Grip combination were uniformely impressed, especially with the ergonomics and feel of it.

In use, I'm extremely impressed with my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R. who applied his talents to fitting and working the prototype trigger in mine; other than having to mill approximately a five-thousandths of an inch off the trigger on both trigger sides to allow proper fit without rubbing/abraiding the frame, he relayed that the instasllation was uneventfu-thanks to BH SS's production quality and Chris' skill with fitting and finishing the trigger components. Triggerpull is beautifully crisp and controllable; reset is "traditional High Power reset," letting the trigger go fully forward to achieve reset.



Custom holster maker Wes Dahl of Privateer Holsters contributed a beautiful, and exceptionally operational two-tone Hermann Oak leather holster to the project; it's an uncataloged version of this Highwayman OWB, a mid-height OWB with an additional lower belt slot incorporated to facilitate cross-draw carry that he wanted me to try.







The boning and fit is impeccible; in our discussions he recommended the two-tone Walnut brown and Black finish, as the High Power will be normally equipped with a BH SS RDIH/VCD textured FDE grip, or a brown walnut BH SS Hybrid grip; I'm exceptionally pleased with it both operationally and aesthetically, and it has become my designated project primary holster for carry and competition. While I generally prefer kydex holsters, for a blued gun, or an epoxy black finish that the High Power Mk III has, I prefer leather and/or horsehide-especially for a classic gun such as the High Power-it just looks (and feels) "right."



Next to come: Installation of the RDIH/BH Spring Solutions SFS trigger system...



Best,

[JonInWA]

Mark Allen of BH Spring Solutions is an exceptionally knowledgeable, and exceptionally persistant guy. As many of you know, I'm actively collaborating with them with many of their offerings and improved components for the High Power, specifically with my MK III .40.

Mark has been regaling me/nagging (in a friendly way) for about a year about how I might want to install the SFS. Equally persistantly, I said "No." Repeatedly. I simply didn't see the merit in it for me, and in fact many of the improvements he touted it provided were in fact already in place on mine without going the SFS route.

Mark, being Mark, in spite of my reluctance, simply shipped me an SFS kit, the mid-level Tactical one, which included the SFS conversion and an ambidexterous magazine release system. On it's arrival, I laughed, called Mark, and thanked him for the new desk ornament he sent me-but I was intrigued by the ambi magazine release, which I promptly installed, and has remained on my High Power.



Until recently, the SFS kit languished on my desk. However, Mark's continued advocacy gradually seeped into me, and, I agreed, at least out of fairness and the desire to gain some hands-on experience with it to install it on my High Power, which I did after concluding my testing and evaluation of the BH Spring Solutions prototype magwell system.

Why was I reluctant? Well, many, if not most of the advantages to be derived from the installation of the BH SS SFS kit have already been accomplished via installation of earlier BH SS components-My High Power already had incorporated the BH SS complete spring upgrade, with all the OEM springs replaced (except for the sear spring-more on that in a bit), so I had the 30# mainspring, improved trigger action/triggerpull achieved with their prototype trigger action system revision kit, the improved RDIH extended slidestop (providing a more ergonomic slidestop as well as simplifying field-stripping), the ambi magazine release and several varieties of BH SS grips.

Plus, to me, the High Power is a classic firearm, and while mine didn't have the older ring hammer, I liked the appearance of the contemporary OEM spur hammer. I'm not afflicted by hammer bite from it, and my gunsmith, Chris at C.a.R Firearms, had beveled the sides and back of the hammer and then refinished it for me to make it a little more user friendly and comfortable, especially for IWB carry. Conversely, I simply didn't like the aesthetics of the SFS abbreviated spur hammer profile-I thought it looked a bit goofy, life a serif font letter.



So, you can correctly deduce that while I was committed to being openminded and objective about the SFS system, my inclination was that it would be an install, objectively and subjectively test and evaluate, and then remove and re-install the OEM action system (another great thing about most of the improved components BH Spring Solutions provides is that they're structurally unobtrusive; if you don't like them, you simply un-install and reinstall the OEM components, as their installation required zero physical modifications or alterations to the pistol itself, at least concerning the components I'm concerned with (there is a BH SS Picatinney rail system kit available that does require drilling and tapping the frame, but I'm not gonna go that route personally). Suffice it to say my initial advocacy of SFS was pretty low; while I didn't perceive it a a blandisment on John Browning per se, I didn't really think it was necessary, at least for me.

Mark and Slav at BH SS provide a holistic approach to the SFS system, as they do with most of their offerings. On the system spec sheet, they provide a detailed list of 20 benefits to be derived from the BH SS SFS system;
https://bhspringsolutions.com/index....-for-hi-power/

From what I can derive, the SFS system was designed in-house by FN engineers, specifically with engineer Leon Hubert as the primary designer, in the 1980s, to make High Power organizational sales more viable to organizations who were reluctant to go with a pistol that was most effective in a cocked-and-locked mode, with the hammer visibly cocked back. Similarly, there was resistance growing to choosing or sticking with a single-action platform, as the 1980 was the start of the explosive proliferation of the DA/SA action, which many organizations saw as intrinsically safer (to both the operator and the public). The SFS system provides a partially pre-cocked hammer, stored/holstered in "hammer down" mode; if needed, the pistol is drawn, taken off safe, upon which time that deactivating the safety lever concurrently cocked the hammer mechanically-it simply flips back to the cocked position when deactivating the safety lever, and is ready to fire in the SA mode. To decock, you simply (literally) push the hammer forward, which de-cocks the gun, as well as mechanically automatically moving the safety levers into the "on safe" mode. Apparently, upon his retirement from FN, Leon Hubert was allowed to take his SFS patent with him; it's apparently been marketed to Daewoo on their DA/SA service pistiol for the Korean Army, and commercially offered briefly as an FN option on the High Power on FN (not Browning) roll-marked and marketed High Powers, and as an option offered for many years by Cylinder & Slide. Leon has marketed it under his RDIH company, and apparently has licensed it to Daewoo, and Cylinder & Slide still has it up on their website as available (at the same price point as BH SS, at least for the basic SFS kit).

To me the SFS kit from BH Spring Solutions is the better value when compared to the Cylinder & Slide offering, as it provides more value and options, and intrinsically comes with 2 sear springs providing different triggerpull weights and two safety lever springs.

Mark really wanted me to install the SFS on my own, so that I could also report on the installation aspect of the system; he provided me with the necessary punches and an exceptionally usefull and easily used BH Spring Solutions designed "Third Hand Tool" to keep the OEM hammer held back when detail disassembling, to both facilitate the disassembly as well as preventing it from unrestrainedly springing forward and possibly damaging the slideless frame. While the kit comes with a detailed instruction sheets and diagrams, only an engineer or patent attorney would appreciate them; they're technically quite correct, but in "engineerish," very difficult for a layman to easily and intuitively grasp (it's one of those things that after you've successfully accomplished the installation, you can re-read and appreciate, for for the uninitiated it's uncomprehensible initially).

Fortunately, BH SS has a very detailed collection of YouTube library videos. You'll need to watch Mark Allen's older one from a couple of years earlier first, as it provides detailed and easily followed disassembly instructions of the original components to prepare the pistol for the SFS components. After you've completed all the disassembly steps necessary for SFS installation, at that point I strongly recommending switching to partner Slav's updated video (only a couple of months old) for the actual installation of the SFS system-his video starts with all the original non SFS components already removed on a partially disassembled frame-the detailed step-by-step video guidance and discussion is excellent, and very easily followed.

I also had an opportunity to deep-clean a significant portion of my frame, but as I previously commented on when installing the BH SS optimized spring kit, simply not a lot of GSR and dirt/dust/gunk seems to get into and accumulate in the High Power frame. So essentially, I dusted and applied a light film of protectant (Weapon Shield) to the frame interior, and then wiped it dry. The same was done to all the SFS components prior to installation. I also applied a light coat of Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 grease to the main safety lever axle, and also on the smaller axle that engages the SFS cocking hook piece.

I will say that the videos really make the disassembly, OEM component removals, and SFS component installation exceptionally easy; as long as you have the basic tools (and ideally an armorer's block-I used Wheeler Engineering's) necessary, it's a pretty simple and straightforward task, easily owner accomplished, in less than an hour. (Actually, far less time is really required, but I meticulously did it step-by-step in conjunction with the videos).

Here are some of my initial thoughts and discussion after the SFS installation:

-The single biggest advantage to it is comfort, as the abbreviated hammer spur, which in it's pre-cocked position (similar to a hammer at a half-cock position) simply doesn't prutrude into your side at all. That good for your side, and less likely to wear holes in concealment garments. If you're one of those afflicted by hammer bite with an OEM High Power hammer, the SFS completely eliminates it as well-that alone may be a sufficient reason to try the system for many

-The SFS system provides a much easier and safer method for decocking a High Power

-The system seems to be very durable, reliable and safe; I've literally never encountered any discussions of it failing or breaking

-Mark claims that the SFS returns John Browning's internal tolerencing back to the High Power, presumably making it a better, tighter component fit, more durable and reliable over the long run in particular. While I've never had any real issues with Saive's modifications, it's an intriguing historical, and perhaps operational point.

-While the SFS abbreviated "serif" looking hammer doesn't seem as balanced to the eye aesthetically to me as does the OEM spur or ring hammers, particularly when back in its full cock position when the safety is released, it actually has kind of an Art Deco look when in repose, pushed forward. It's started to grow on me, frankly. And historically, until modern times (i.e., likely post 1980), High Powers by the vast majority of users were likely probably carried hammer down on an empty chamber as opposed to cocked-and-locked, so there's some historical versimilitude inherent to the SFS in it's carry mode.



-The SFS system inherently provides a drop safety; my Mark III inherently has the FN drop safety lever as well, so I guess it gives me a "belt and suspenders" approach to things, but it's a nice benefit to owners of older High Powers without zn OEM drop safety system

-The SFS slide stop is much more ergonomic and accessible for me then the OEM slide stop, and it also expedites field-stripping-with it, you don't need to first lock the slide back, you just push slightly up on it, remove it from the frame, and you can then remove the slide assembly off the frame.

-I find the SFS manual safety levers to be a bit more ergonomic then the OEM "banana" safety levers, and you simply cannot inadvertantly safe the gun by pushing up on the lever; the safety lever is automatically cammed into place concurrently by pushing the SFS hammer foward. I believe that the right side lever is molded polymer, so presumably you can re-shape it if necessary relatively easily

-I'm no gunsmith or engineer, but at first blush there seems to be a striking similarity between the SFS hammer and it's internal coil spring and HK's LEM two piece hammer design's mechanics, which has certainly proven to be rugged and reliable.
The SFS is ideal for holstering while thumbing on the hammer, additionally ensuring the weapon is easily and safely holstered.

-BH Spring Solutions provides not only two sear springs, it also provides a much simpler sear spring installation and removal, requiring only removing the grips to switch. I have chosen the slightly heavier Type 2 spring, as prefer at least a 4-6 pound triggerpull weight. Two light of a sear spring can run the risk of weapon double fire; my Mark III is probably impervious to that, but I'll start with the heavier spring, which provides an excellent triggerpull weight to my feel, at least in dryfire practice so far.

So-am I converted? We'll see over time, but I'm much more impressed than I anticipated. I just hate having to now acknowledge Mark Allen's likely forthcoming "I told you so..."

Best, Jon

[fatdog]

Great project gun!

I have been running the SFS for nearly 20 years without a single problem in many thousands of rounds. I picked up a factory FN made mk III that they sold with the SFS in place, and then converted a pair of Argentine FM Mk III's with the SFS kits I bought from Cylinder and Slide. I believe the lock time on the SFS is much faster than the conventional hammer and sear system but with no way to quantitatively measure that is just my perception. Hope your conversion holds up and serves as well as mine have.

[JonInWA]

In my continuing evaluation of BH Spring Solutions components, Mark Allen and his partner Slav wanted me to wring out several of their wood grips. Basically, their wood grips are finish variations on the same basic contour design, which incorporated a calculated combination of graduated thickness with a subtle shelving contour incorporated into the upper portion of the grip plates. Primarily walnut burl (with other occassional woods used), my understanding is that the grips are manufactured in Bulgaria, and their inletting is by CNC controlled cuts, and the exterior finishes involve significant handwork and on the higher grades involve multile coats of Damar lacquer, with additional polishing and hand finishing between each coat. Mor on all that in a moment.

My initial introduction to their grips was with two sets of their RDIH polymer grips designed by Leon Hubert, a former senior FN and FN High Power project engineer. He personally designs and manufactures a series of High Power and 1911 components, and I was eager to test his grips-for those of you following ths blog, here's a recap:

The first set was this one in black polymer:


I was impressed with them, but felt that there was some room for further refining, vis-a-vis application of some of p-f member David Barnes' VCD stippling, with which I was well familiar with, due to Todd G's touting of them, and the two previous sets he'd provided for my 1911s. Discussions with David and Mark commenced, with BH SS providing me a set of FDE RDIH grips, and David applied his technique on, resulting in this:


The end result was the best set of tactical grips I've encountered on a High Power-the combination of the VCD stippling, RDIH ergos (including vestigal shelf strakes and pronounced frontstrap finger grooves) just works, For an operational set of grips, color me done. If you've got a High Power that you carry or use in IDPA (or similar), I strongly recommend trying the RDIH/VCD combination-and the combined cost will be less than $60. Boom.

However, sometimes there's pleasure to be derived in a combination of design effeciencies and aesthetics. Hence the BH Spring Solutions' wood grips. To date, I've tested 4 sets: a set of their matte checkered Masteers Grips, which retail for about $70;


Two sets of their higher level Legacy grips, which are smooth and magnificently finished, and retail for about $110-$145:



And a set of their highest level of wood figuring, their Heirloom grips, selling for $170


However, as good as the design and feel was, and how they performed in actual use (all but for the Heirloom-more on that in a moment) ther were problems with a four sets of these higher end wood grips.

With the matte Master Grip, it was fit-I encountered some slippage in the left grip plate when installed, it's back at BH SS awaiting a suitable replacement.

With the 2 Legacy grips, there were more significant problems: Both sets encountered cracks or breakage in actual use:







My gnnsmith Cris at C.a.R. Firearms and I examined the Heirloom grip, which I'd installed on my High Power but not fired; he found significant gaps at the fronts, top and sides, especially aroung teh top and rear grip tang areas. Detailed images were sent to Mark and Slav, and we've had some very detailed discussions.

Basically, BH Spring Solutions' integrity is superb and they fully and immediately stand behind any and all of their products-that's the personal and business model they're fully comitted to. What we've tentatively ascertained are the possibility of two issues-1) that there are some issues with the CNC manufacturing process and pre-shipping QC from their maker, and 2) that the grip fit model is based on forged frame High Powers, and the newer cast frame High Powers have some subtle, but critical dimensional variations from the forged ones. Analysis and redesign is being undergone as we speak.

In the meantime, if you have a forged frame High Power, the remaining stock of BH SS Legacy inventory is significantly on sale-but I'd ask Mark to check the fit before shipping. Ditto on the frame check on any Heirloom grips. If you have a cast frame, I'd strongly recommend waiting for the new and improved wood BH SS grips; they'll be worth the wait.

Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

[JonInWA]

Last weekend I ran the High Power in a local Tier 1 IDPA match and Classifier, expeding 142 rounds. Grips used were the excellent RDIH grips from BH Spring Solutions, to which David Barnes had applied his VCD stippling, which provides excellent control; the holster used was my Privateer Leather Highwayman, which continues to provide excellent holstering operational effectiveness and comfort.





The gun ran superbly, but I noticed that one of my MecGar magazines was a bit hesitant to chamber the initial round on reloads; BH SS has a tool enroute to me for me to analyize the cartridges angle of presentation out of the magazine, which will alert me for feed lip spread-and also a replacement MecGar .40 magazine. The problematic one will be either junked or relegated to Barney mag status only. Predominate ammunition used was Winchester White Box target 165 gr-not my first preference, but it worked well enough.

After the match, when routinely cleaning and lubricating, I noticed an odd feature on the back of the firing pin retaining plate, appearing to be either a casting mark or a hairline crack.



As a precautionary measure, I decided to dig a bit deeper, as it is unusual but not unknown for High Power firing pin retainint plates to develop stress cracks, predominantly at the 7 o'clock poition, according to Stephen Camp's excellent TTHe Shooter's Guide To The Browning Hi Power Revised Edition," p 64. Using BH Spring Solutions excellent Firig Pin Retaining Plate Tool


it was accomplished with ease and a singular lack of drama-and I also found the tip of the RDIH Extended Slide Stop lever made an excellent firing pin safety lever depressing tool; depressing the lever is essential to removing the firing pin components.

What I found when I remved the pate was disconcerting-a substatial portion of the rail had broken off, and not only was the retaining pin cracked, there was also a crater wher material had remved itself.



Here's a comparison with the replacement retaining plate that I fortunately had on hand (based on Stephen Camp's list of recommended High Power replacement parts he recommended having on hand (firing pin, firing pin retaining plate extractor, recoil spring guide, springs, and roll pins):




The replacement (obtained from Browning some years back) is MIM; the OEM one, I'm not certain about. While I've never experienced of heard of a High Power firing pin retaining plate breaking to the point of allowing the firing pin and firing pin spring to be released into the open (I have read of when one broke in half, it still performed according to fuction, and also was discovered only upon the user's detailed disassembly when it fell out in halves when removed), it certainly isn't a Good Thing to continue with a materially compromised part. By my estimation, the condition has existed for some 1,000 rounds and innumerable dryfire iterations-1,000 rounds ago was when I embarked on the holistic BH Spring Sollutions overall spring replacement program and detailed disassembled the High Power.

In the future, what I intend to do is to place a #6 rubber O-ring on top of the end of the firing pin protrusion from the firing pin retainning plate to cushion the direct blow from the hammer when there isn't a cartridge or dummy cartridge to perform that function.

Additionally, I also received a new set of the functionally improved BH Spring Solutions grips, with the inlet cuts modified to allow for stronger wood presences at critical curves in the upper grip tang in the grip-to-receiver interface. The grios have a laser-carved filagree inlay, designed by Mark Allen's wife, which artistically lend a very appropriate look to the Hogh Power, which came into its own originally during the Art Deco period-her design subtly, but very nicely adds an aesthetic finishing touch to the High Powr's lines and appeal; I like them quate a bit-but no I'll have to see how they shoot and hold up.





Best, Jon

[Tokarev]

FYI in case you don't know. Cylinder and Slide makes a tool steel firing pin stop. Part # CS0054.



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