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Thread: The Semi-Unofficial Pistol-Forum Car geek, gearhead, hot rodder, and vehicle thread

  1. #381
    Site Supporter 0ddl0t's Avatar
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    Feb 2019
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    Jefferson
    mystery solved. The little half arrow pointing to a gas station pump stands for distance to empty. Apparently mazda felt the need for a distance to empty gauge. I get the value of a digital estimate of miles remaining, but the analog portion just duplicates the fuel gauge...

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  2. #382
    Ready! Fire! Aim! awp_101's Avatar
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    Sep 2017
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    DFW
    Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain

    Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?

  3. #383
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    Oct 2012
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    I drove an NC Miata for the first time today, an NC1 specifically, 2006. Pretty sure it was the base-base model, had a 5-speed and 81k miles. Price was $5500. Being sold by a mechanic for a widow, I got first shot at it and there were people waiting when I got back.

    I guess it's been awhile since I owned my '95, but this thing didn't really feel much if any faster than I remember the NA being, although my NA was among the lightest, being an R package. The engine was kinda boring actually, no peakiness at all. The chassis was pretty good, everything was tight and the trans shifted really well. It handled well.

    I had the $$ with me for it, but as I drove and then looked at it on the lift afterward, I kept adding up these little things in my head....wet driver's side floorboard, big wind leak in the top behind pass side window because something was disconnected, missing bolt in the ABS sensor wire at the right rear, and the thing that killed it was chunks of flaking rust on the bottom of the right side subframe rail, not to mention general rust on most lower chassis components. I had a feeling that I could put a screwdriver through the subframe if I wanted to. I didn't see signs of accident damage, but random missing fasteners is also never a good sign.

    I'd rather it had 250k miles and no rust. Back to the search, but I WILL be considering NC's in the future.

  4. #384
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    Yeah, there are enough of those in warm and dry places to not think about one with rust. They're not British or Italian, or old enough for that to be relevant.
    .
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    Not another dime.

  5. #385
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    Jan 2013
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    ABQ, NM
    Quote Originally Posted by TBone550 View Post
    I drove an NC Miata for the first time today, an NC1 specifically, 2006. Pretty sure it was the base-base model, had a 5-speed and 81k miles. Price was $5500. Being sold by a mechanic for a widow, I got first shot at it and there were people waiting when I got back.

    I guess it's been awhile since I owned my '95, but this thing didn't really feel much if any faster than I remember the NA being, although my NA was among the lightest, being an R package. The engine was kinda boring actually, no peakiness at all. The chassis was pretty good, everything was tight and the trans shifted really well. It handled well.

    I had the $$ with me for it, but as I drove and then looked at it on the lift afterward, I kept adding up these little things in my head....wet driver's side floorboard, big wind leak in the top behind pass side window because something was disconnected, missing bolt in the ABS sensor wire at the right rear, and the thing that killed it was chunks of flaking rust on the bottom of the right side subframe rail, not to mention general rust on most lower chassis components. I had a feeling that I could put a screwdriver through the subframe if I wanted to. I didn't see signs of accident damage, but random missing fasteners is also never a good sign.

    I'd rather it had 250k miles and no rust. Back to the search, but I WILL be considering NC's in the future.
    I had a '95 M-edition for a little while, the plush fancy version.

    Definitely enough NC's in other places without rust to find and enjoy. I've seen a few that got the Duratec 2.5L swap and apparently that's a very straightforward and easy way to a reliable ~210hp in a ~2600lb car. Not bad!

  6. #386
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    Oct 2012
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    USA
    Yes on the extra power, it could be put to good use in that chassis. I'm coming from Corvettes most recently, a C5Z (which I had at the end of my time with the 95 R package Miata) and then I went down to a 95 C4, wiggly chassis and all. Even with 100 less hp than the C5Z had, my C4 still literally stomps the 06 Miata I drove today when it comes to power output and general driveability related to the engine. For what....maybe an 8 mpg loss in fuel economy? The Miata's weren't that great on fuel. You could gear the Miata down and even though the engine got louder, it never really put you back in the seat even if you dropped two gears.

    I need to get out of this C4 but even though people look down their noses at them, they can actually be a hard act to follow, especially the later ones like mine with the ZF / LT1 combo. Any other ideas? I'm not considering anything European. Japanese mainly, possibly American but I'm only wanting to spend around $5-6k. I'd still like to have a fun car but I'm less willing to have much invested in it compared to the way I was years ago.

  7. #387
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    Mar 2015
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    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    If your C4 is clean and worth keeping, I'd probably just fiddle with it. Good tires, brake pads, stainless brake lines, maybe some Konis or Bilsteins (whatever the cool kids like for the car), get it corner balanced and aligned. Maybe freshen up suspension bushings. It's amazing what truly lightweight wheels will do to a car. (Not being a C4 guy, I have zero suggestions for you. But going from 12.7-lb wheels to 9.5-lb wheels on my Miata was night and day.) Basic warmup of the engine. Can do a lot with your budget that will enhance it nicely. Not LS-enhanced, but still good.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  8. #388
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    Oct 2012
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    USA
    Yeah, but I've had a couple of C4's over the years, and I'm a little past the noodly chassis. I think the C5Z ruined me for the C4, even though I tried to go back. And just in case anyone is wondering, the C4 in convertible form gives new meaning to the phrase, 'cowl shake.' It does stick to the road, but if I ever do have another C4, it won't be a convertible. Not that the coupe is a monument to rigidity LOL.

  9. #389
    Site Supporter rob_s's Avatar
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    Nov 2011
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    SE FL
    I have always wanted one of those M Coupes, but not at $40k...
    https://apple.news/AwciYSgvhQ0StqwsWNpPhVQ

    Summary of models from the article

    1990-1998 Mazda MX-5 Miata
    Increase in insurance quotes: 18%
    Average value in good condition: $7,000

    1990-1993 Chevrolet 454 SS pickup
    Increase in insurance quotes: 39%
    Average value in good condition: $15,000

    1990-1997 Lincoln Town Car
    Increase in insurance quotes: 17%
    Average value in good condition: $5,000

    1990-1994 Porsche 911
    Increase in insurance quotes: 10%
    Average value in good condition: $81,000

    1991-1995 Toyota MR2
    Increase in insurance quotes: 28%
    Average value in good condition: $10,000

    1992-2002 Cadillac Eldorado
    Increase in insurance quotes: 13%
    Average value in good condition: $5,000

    1993-1995 Ford F-150 SVT Lightning
    Increase in insurance quotes: 23%
    Average value in good condition: $10,000

    1993-1996 Cadillac Fleetwood
    Increase in insurance quotes: 10%
    Average value in good condition: $6,000

    1993-1998 Toyota Supra
    Increase in insurance quotes: 17%
    Average value in good condition: $25,000 (non-turbocharged) to $50,000 (twin-turbocharged)

    1997-2001 Acura Integra Type R
    Increase in insurance quotes: 21%
    Average value in good condition: $30,000

    1997-2006 Jeep Wrangler (TJ)
    Increase in insurance quotes: 10%
    Average value in good condition: $10,000

    1998-2002 BMW M coupe
    Increase in insurance quotes: 44%
    Average value in good condition: $25,000 (for the 240-horsepower model) and $40,000 (for the 315-horsepower model)
    Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.

  10. #390
    Site Supporter rob_s's Avatar
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    Nov 2011
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    SE FL
    Love these guys, and this car, although I think it got the 300hp engine just a year later and would have loved to see a review on that one.

    Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.

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