Yeah, they do look like the Turbo Twists, but they're Mille Miglia Cup 3 wheels with offsets to match the early non-ABS cars. I don't think they're worth much over scrap value -- but I do like the looks and will probably keep it that way.
Still not sure of plans for the future with this...I also am well aware of the tons of issues with these cars in general and this one in particular. My original idea was to get it running and resell for a couple thousand profit, and I may still do that. But every time I look at it, it's kind of like a siren singing to me. The funky look is growing on me. A LOT.
Kinda do want…
https://silodrome.com/paul-newman-vo...2-v8-volvette/
Paul Newman’s 1998 Volvo V90 “Volvette”Shown Here
This car is the “Volvette,” so named because it combines a Volvo with a Corvette V8 – specifically an LS2 with a displacement of 364 cubic inches (6.0 liters or 5,964cc).
In stock trim the LS2 produces 400 bhp at 6,000 rpm with 400 lb ft of torque at 4,400 rpm – almost four times more power than the smaller Volvo engine options and twice as much as even Volvo’s most powerful offering.
The original Volvo automatic transmission wouldn’t have lasted five minutes behind the LS2, and as a result they swapped it out for a General Motors 4-speed automatic transmission. Apparently the rear suspension was left in standard configuration, but the front end with its new much heavier engine received suspension parts from a Porsche 911.
Though front suspension arrangement this sounds very interesting there’s no more information available about it. High performance disc brakes were fitted front and back, the wiring was professionally reworked by an electrical expert to get everything working, and a discrete V06 badge was added to the rear.
Under the hood you’ll find a red Monte Carlo bar, a cold air intake, and a Newman-Hass Racing Team sticker. In the passenger compartment there’s an additional gauge on the A-pillar and a plaque on the glovebox dedicated to Newman (see it below).
Does the above offend? If you have paid to be here, you can click here to put it in context.
LOL!
I put a battery in it and cleaned up the ground strap connection....which is pretty cool all by itself; there's what appears to be a brazed-in brass surface in the rear of the trunk (battery is in a compartment under the spare tire) which has a stud coming out of it. So that you don't have to completely unload the trunk to disconnect the battery, the strap comes up out of the battery compartment and attaches to that stud with a giant wing nut. Dude! What a time-saving and simple idea. I just set the loose end of the strap inside of a spray paint cap when I'm not wanting power.
But anyways.
I spent a few minutes more on it. After getting the instrument cluster pod removed (it travels with the tilt steering wheel unlike any other car I've seen), I could access the rear of the ignition switch. Two flathead screws hold it to the back of the aluminum steering column structure; unscrewed them and pulled the switch out and away from the lock cylinder. The switch has a big phillips head slot in it. Turned it, and poof! Power. Windows go up and down (slowly), horn honks, almost all lights work. Headlights don't work or flip up, and rear side markers don't work. Nothing from the heater/A/C unit or aftermarket radio. Sunroof doesn't have the guts to move, but has power.
And the engine cranks.
I'm going to pull the fuel lines and send them off for a rebuild, replace the vacuum lines, and replace the plug wires. Clean out the tank, put fuel in, and see what happens. Plug wires, air filter, some vacuum line, and factory workshop manuals should be getting here in the next couple of days.
I know better than to do any of this, but I have a disease where I can't bear to see it go to the scrap pile. At it's best, this 928 is just a complete parts car with worthless interior....and yet I must see it run again. It'll probably cost me about $1000 in parts, plus the manuals aren't cheap either. It'll be worth a couple thousand more in running condition, but I'll have spent that much to get it there. Still worth it to me.
BAH.... pretty sure my Chevy truck I just put heads on, is doing the same thing it was before. I'm getting "mysterious coolant loss"... again. I bet I have not put 2k miles on since I did all that work. WTF!? I was gonna pull a valve cover off to confirm, but its thunderstorming outside. The company I got the heads from never did respond the the emails I sent, or the phone messages I left back when I had all the pushrod length issues, so I doubt their warranty is any damn good to me. After I know for sure, I'll be lighting their asses up, and ringing their bell for sure.
that sucks, have you checked coolant for combustion gases?
Whelp... there is officially a crack in the head bolt recess. On the drivers side head this time. The company I got the heads from isn't being very prompt with communications, but I was able to call them on the phone this afternoon and chew some butt. Supposedly the shop foreman is supposed to call me Monday to discuss all the issues I've had, and come to some conclusion. The office guy did offer to send me head gaskets and head bolts for my troubles, which is a step in the right direction.
I also found a very clean 05 2500 with the 6.0 gasser and 105k miles on it today at a dealer... but they want 19k, and it only high books for somewhere between 11-13k. I don't think they'll get asking for it, but they might get somewhere in between. The market is so screwed up lately, I don't know. I told the sales lady to call me when they were willing to negotiate.