I use the OEMs for practice. CMC Powermags for carry.Originally Posted by tlong17I
I use the OEMs for practice. CMC Powermags for carry.
"There is magic in misery. You need to constantly fail. Always bite off more than you can chew, put yourself in situations where you don't succeed then really analyze why you didn't succeed." - Dean Karnazes www.sbgillinois.com
If I could replace every flat head and Philips screw everywhere on the planet with Torx, I'd do it. The only thing they don't do better than flat head and Philips is allowing for the use of improvised tools.
Which is precisely why I would want flathead screws holding my grips on. How are Torx screws superior to other screws other than having a different head?
I may be repeating what others have already posted but as this is your first 1911 I would offer the following suggestions:
Magazines... don’t do the magazine Macarena, start by getting Wilson 47 (7rd) magazines. There is more to feeding a 1911 than just the magazine, for example some guns may not work perfectly with an 8 or 10rd magazine because of the gun not the magazine. The Wilson 47 offers the least amount of variables and is still my preferred magazine.
If you want an 8rd magazine get the Wilson Combat ETM-HD (500C-HD)... this is a superior magazine to the 47D.
Recoil springs... these are cheap insurance, change around every 2500 rounds. The original spring rate is 16# but I use and like 18.5# springs because they last longer. I can tell no difference between the two when it comes to shooting the gun.
Firing pin spring... change it with the recoil spring.
Mainspring... standard weight is 23#, unless it breaks it should last you almost the life of the gun.
Spare parts can be a good idea but I seldom (never???) see extractors come out of a package and go into a gun with correct geometry. Doesn’t mean it can’t happen or won’t work... I like a use Wilson Combat Bulletproof extractors.
The gun needs to be lubricated. I’m not dogmatic about what type or brand of oil and anything is better than nothing at all... except for Frog Lube of course.
Your rear sight looks really tall... I would recommend shooting the gun at 25 yards to insure it is not shooting high.
Heirloom Preicison
www.heirloomprecision.com
The driver never slides out of the side of the channel like flat heads do, and there is a much lower propensity for stripping out the heads than Philips due to the fact that the driver basically locks into place in the head vs the Philips being tapered.
Despite that being the nature of the design, I have stripped 10x as many small Torx machine screws than I have flathead. The reason is precisely because the flat head slides out the side if you attempt to apply too much torque.
I actually find Torx to be inferior to allen in most circumstances, it appears to be quite difficult to properly harden the splines on small torx fasteners. This is especially true when you have a deep head that can hold roughly half of the short end of an Allen key in it. And in a pinch, a flat head screwdriver can be filed to fit into an allen head bolt and loosen it. I usually have to cut off stripped Torx heads, or dremel them out to fit an allen key.
For small fasteners with shallow or domed heads nothing is superior to the flathead, because they resist over-torquing by virtue of the design. They are not ideal for rapid assembly or high stress loads, certainly they suck for use with powertools. But for a hand driver and fine assembly, I find the flathead to be perfect in most instances.
Regular slotted screws are stronger, as less screwhead material is displaced by the slot (vs torx and Allen) and have a greater chance for being tightened or removed with tools more likely to be on hand in the field. Challis O-rings or red fiber computer washers preclude screw loosening, yet allow for easy removal when necessary. Best, Jon
Torx will allow more torque to be applied without stripping - IF the driver is held perpendicular to the applied force. Stripping beyond that is typically a material/corrosion/faulty installation issue.
A major bonus for torx is a lack of standard or metric. T27 is T27, etc. - which means stripping due to the improper tool selection is reduced. as well.
Good gun.
I prefer tritium front, plain rear. Wilson bullet proof extended mag release, fbfps, extractor, harrison short trigger, S&A checkered msh with lanyard loop, and grips to taste.
SA mags are actually pretty good.
Wilson 47D or wilson vickers mags other wise.
I use 10rd cmc mags for competition and 10rd wilson mags with the rolled lips for carry.
I like whatever automotive lithium grease i have in my bag.
And usually the driver is not fully perpendicular to the object force is being applied. This is the case for just about anything that is not hex-head.
A properly machined wide slot with properly machined and fitted bit will give pretty much all the torque necessary pn small fasteners.
I find I’m more likely to overtorque Torx, which contributes to stripping them in addition to the, near perfect perpendicular interface needed.
I only use metric machine screws where possible. But a proper set of flat head screwdrivers is a must have for anyone. Most people have two-three sizes, but need about 15 or 20.
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