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Thread: Improving the J-frame trigger

  1. #61
    Quote Originally Posted by JRV View Post
    Unintentional double negative, or mad genius?
    I just switched from night shift to day shift and I'm getting used to being awake when the sun is up?

  2. #62
    Site Supporter JRV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Quote Originally Posted by jetfire View Post
    I just switched from night shift to day shift and I'm getting used to being awake when the sun is up?
    In exhaustion, veritas.

    Screw the Hellcat and the P365, you've identified the best concealed carry option for everyone from tier one operators to the geriatric widow neighbor that's deathly afraid of rap music.
    Well, you may be a man. You may be a leprechaun. Only one thing’s for sure… you’re in the wrong basement.

  3. #63
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    "carbine-infested rural (and suburban) areas"
    Reading fail.
    Last edited by OlongJohnson; 10-09-2019 at 03:48 PM.
    .
    -----------------------------------------
    Not another dime.

  4. #64
    Nothing to add that hasn’t already been said, but I have two 642s, one I’ve carried and shit for years and a brand new spare. The diff without any apex or polishing is huge.

    They making a product called lapping film, that is very easy to cut, and comes in most any fine grit. I say easy to cut bc polishing the frame under the slide bar would be tricky w large bulky sand paper.

  5. #65
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Texas
    I have great success polishing revolvers with Flitz by using a Q tip. Polish inside the frame with with attention to remove burrs or sharp areas where the slide contacts the frame. Don't overlook the slide's interior. Put the slide on a flat surface. Glass is ideal. Apply Fltz to cloth placed on glass. Move slide back and forth. Be certain to apply pressure against the edge contacting frame. Polish contact areas where hammer and trigger move against frame and sideplate. In an aluminum gun, the sideplate is delicate. Polish contact areas carefully.

    I disassemble cylinder, and using Flitz on a cloth, I polish these parts gently. I do the same for the barrel of the yoke. Now the next step is essential. With non chlorinated brake parts cleaner, I aggressively blow out all polish and residue.

    The ejector rod has a left hand thread. Put rod in a padded vice and turn to the right to unscrew. Place empties in chambers to reduce stress on extractor. This is said not to be necessary on newer guns. I still do it.

    I discovered that lubing with Slip 2000 significantly reduces friction. J frames are unforgiving to careless modifying. I have owned a very large number and never saw one that would not smooth up with use. Cutting springs is risky business. My opinion is that setting up defense weapons to function with designated only ammo is not worth the chance of misfires. Ammo is produced in batches or lots. Variation can occur from one to another.

  6. #66
    Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Rochester Hills, MI
    So far I have 25 rounds of Federal 158gr LRN and 10 rounds of Blazer Brass 125gr run flawlessly through with the Apex spring kit. I know that’s not a ton, but was expecting a light strike if it was going to fail. I should be able to get more rounds through it soon. It is a drastic improvement though.

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