On my P30 v3, I replaced the TRS every 15k, and the recoil spring every 25k. I was told the sear spring was out of spec, causing hammer follow around 50k, and after service no further issues occurred. The only other spring issue was the firing pin spring brole somewhere between 80- 85k. It did not impede function, and was discovered during PM.
Taking a break from social media.
I'm surprised the hammer strut was included in that. Didn't realize they were a wear item. On the older guns I've had apart, they get mated to the split pin in the hammer and there's a nice burnished interface there. The split pin in the USP hammer is only 0.5 mm thick steel, so I'd want to ask an HK engineer if it's also worth replacing that when it's worth replacing the strut.Originally Posted by Mark D
HK USA told me the recoil spring on my USP FS guns should be changed in the 18-20k round range, and everything else as needed, subject to inspection.
The nickel sear spring, which does not cause hammer follow, is considerably looser than the standard sear spring, so a standard sear spring would have to be pretty darn worked to create a problem.
In any case, the parts are all inexpensive enough from the web shop that it's reasonable to just change them out on something like a 20k schedule.
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Not another dime.
Thanks for the heads up on the web store, I wasn't even aware it existed. I usually call HK customer service and order over the phone.
By the way, what's the difference between the nickle sear spring and the regular one, apart from one being shiny?
Last edited by Mark D; 10-06-2019 at 07:51 PM.
Sidebar, how many total rounds through that P30 now?
--Josh
“Formerly we suffered from crimes; now we suffer from laws.” - Tacitus.
It's flatter, so it applies less force to the sear, catch, etc. Less force stacks into the trigger pull weight as it progresses toward the break.
Also, I've noticed in 2 of 2 cases, the nickel spring is nicely deburred with all edges smooth, while the standard sear springs I took out of the guns have stamping burrs around the edges. In the second case, the burrs clearly left witness marks on opposing parts. It's one of those little things, where if I was going through a USP, even if I intended to continue to use the standard sear spring, I would pull it out and make sure it was properly deburred.
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Not another dime.
Unfortunately I no longer own it. It was originally purchased used for $750. By the looks of it, it had perhaps 1k on it. I used it exclusively for several years, put the 85k through it, and was offered $400 at the LGS. I felt that was a generous offer, considering. In hindsight, the history it held, class with TLG, personal journey, etc, probably should have held onto it.
Taking a break from social media.
If my memory serves me correctly, the LEM TRS is known to fail sooner than the regular TRS. The way I read it, it's due to the spring being stronger.
I'll see if I can find the info to back that up but I'm 99% certain of it.
I have several TRS of both variations as spares.
Last edited by Exiledviking; 10-07-2019 at 02:24 PM.
Springs are cheap and the TRS is a piece of cake to change. I used a pair of needle nosed pliers from my electronics toolbox. Similar to these, $2 at Harbor Freight
I carry a P2000 LEM and shoot a P30 LEM. The P30 has the heavy TRS and I have broken it once in 9 years of use, probably 25K rounds. Brownells carries them
-Seconds Count. Misses Don't-
I imagine that it would have been retired at some point but that would have been nice to look at and think of everywhere it has been, what it had seen, etc. I'm nostalgic like that though.
Gotcha. Thanks.
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