I've always used blue Loctite. Reading what's been said about the VC3 has me curious about it.
I've always used blue Loctite. Reading what's been said about the VC3 has me curious about it.
This ^^^^
As mentioned the nice thing about it for tiny screws is it doesn’t really dry like loctite. It stays gummy enough to hold, which in turn makes it more resistant to vibration and makes it easier to remove the screw without damage since the “breaking force” is less.
It’s not that blue loctite doesn’t work but it has some drawbacks that VC3 avoids.
BTW VC3 is red but don’t confuse it with red loctite.
Last edited by HCM; 09-23-2019 at 12:30 PM.
Years ago in an armorer's class Greg "Sully" Sullivan recommended clear nail polish as a thread locker on shotguns/AR15s. It has held up well for my usages, but I have no experience for this application, and I would defer to the others here regarding the VC3.
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I like purple low-strength Vibratite. I know with RMR's or 1911 grip screws they say to use blue loctite, but I've still had that hang on pretty damn good and had a few stripped hex screws to show for it. And loose screws when I decided to see what happened if I didn't use anything - not recommended.
No problems with purple. To be clear, it's not a lower strength VC3, it's a lower strength thread locker. Bought one of these a few years ago and expect it'll last me a good long time. https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-11...gateway&sr=8-1
Last edited by Darth_Uno; 09-23-2019 at 05:24 PM.
The other advantage to VC-3 is that it works on every metal and coating. Loctite can fail to bond with certain metals and coatings such as anodizing and will require the use of their 7649 Primer/Activator to achieve a proper set. It definitely works but adds additional cost and complications and many people skip this step resulting in a failed bond which they then blame on Loctite.
VC-3.
Heat... While you won't need it for VC-3, there shouldn't be a fear of heat. You won't need a torch, a simple soldering iron is enough heat. I'd have no issues using anything requiring heat on an optic and have done so in the past. Soldering iron for a second or two does the trick.
Think for yourself. Question authority.