Equal and opposite reaction dictates that the gasses and unburned powder accelerating forward are going to cause the gun to accelerate backward.Originally Posted by mtnbkr
Handy calculator here: http://www.shooterscalculator.com/recoil-calculator.php
Of course "felt recoil" is going to be a combination of factors, but there's no doubt powder weight affects recoil.
Sorta around sometimes for some of your shitty mod needs.
So, having just scooped myself a 550C and have 0 experience reloading, I’ve got a couple of calibers I want to start reloading for en masse. I carry a J-frame at least 5 days a week (thanks, employer), but I also shoot Production and need more practice ammo. In the J-frame I carry Federal GMMWCs.
I was previously told that Titegroup was the way to go, but you guys are saying it’s not great for beginners. It sounds like it’s really hard to go wrong with HP-38 and N320. Given that, according to my calculations, powder goes a long way so cost isn’t going to kill me too much there. Would it be a good idea to stock N320 for 9mm to replicate factory strength FMJ loads and HP-38 for .38 Special to replicate 148gr wadcutter loads for practice? Or would it be better to consolidate on one of these two powders for both until I really get the hang of things?
For reference, I’m currently shooting at least 400 rounds of 9mm a month and 50 rounds of .38 Special a month. I want to bump both of those numbers up (because they’re rookie numbers).
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Buy both powders and Unique. Powder, properly stored, last years, decades even. All three powders will work for both cartridges. You'll use it eventually.
Chris
So basically what I’m hearing is “buy the biggest tub of both you can find and stick to those until you run out. By then you’ll have a really good idea of what you’re doing and will probably be buying both again later since I’ll most likely have worked up a good load for both and consistency is king.”Buy both powders and Unique. Powder, properly stored, last years, decades even. All three powders will work for both cartridges. You'll use it eventually.
Chris
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As mentioned, it really doesn't matter for a while. But IMO all of the reasons to get really specific on matching a powder to a cartridge are down the road for ya. I would simplify with something, probably HP-38/W231, and get in the groove before you get too much extra stuff to worry about. Having only one powder eliminates the potential for confusing the two. On that topic a tip I have always adhered to is when you are loading only keep ONE powder on the bench, obviously having only ONE powder in the shop would be extra safe. If you pour the wrong stuff in to refill the powder measure and realize it, now you have polluted the whole measure full of powder and have to discard it all. If you don't realize it then the consequences can be a BFD. If you load a bunch of rounds and then realize you have made a mistake then you got a bunch of bullets to pull to get at the powder you are probably gonna need to burn up on the BBQ grill.
I think when you are on square one it makes sense to KISS. Not that I mean to imply that anybody here is "S", but the differences in these powders are quite subtle, until you start loading specialized stuff like hot 357 or hot 44 or hot 10mm. Just get a generic powder like HP-38/231 (or Unique, or one of many others) and get some initial experience.
And let me reiterate, this is just an opinion.
ETA:
Remember that there are 7000 grains in a single pound. The load for HP-38 for a 148g wadcutter is 3.5g-4g, so like 1800 rounds out of ONE pound of powder. I say buy a little bit of something and try it and be sure you like it.
EATA:
Last edited by mmc45414; 09-11-2019 at 02:30 PM.
Yup. Though, you'll get a 1000-1500 rounds out of each pound, so you can even go with the small jugs and not run out anytime soon.
Chris
I agree with getting some 1 pound bottles of powder to see what you like.
But during the last crazy times I struggled to find powder. I'm in the opinion now that I would rather have couple 8 pound jugs of general purpose powders, and primers on hand. Maybe it won't be the best powder for what I'm doing. But at least it something.
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The key is to start. If you're not careful, you can get paralysis by analysis quite easily.
I also like the idea of starting with a single stage. I loaded a lot of 45 on a Rock Chucker before I moved on to the Dillon 550. I still load the vast majority of my rifle ammo on the RC.
My biggest gripe with the 550 is changing primer size. I hate it so much I have two 550s. One for large primers and one for small primers.
Pretty good plan. I would echo BE86 and would go that route over Unique. It has a practically identical burn rate and can load from .25ACP to .44Mag. It's also flash suppressed. It shares chemistry with Power Pistol and Bullseye, both of which are excellent. I think one could get by with that single powder for 99% of ALL handgun use. That's the good thing about Unique, it's just so versatile but I think BE86 is a lot cleaner burning and basically replaces Unique in my mind.
N320 with a jacketed (non exposed base) or a plated bullet will let you shoot thousands before needing to clean. It's great for gamer loads. But dat price doh....
Both of those will get you a long way down the road.
Edit to add: Try to find a used turret press. You won't regret it. I have a Redding T7 and got it after 20 years of loading on a rock chucker. I'm still kicking myself in the ass. Even if it's a Lee, check into a turret.
Last edited by Spartan1980; 09-11-2019 at 11:02 PM.
There is some excellent advice in this thread!
I've been handloading since 1986. I started on a Lee Single stage (I still use it as it simply won't wear out or so it seems) and a Dillon 550 since '89.
I appreciate the words of caution on some of the finer powders such as TG and W 231. You really have to be cautious and keep a very close eye on your powder level, especially in larger cases like 45 acp.
I've handloaded well over 50K of 45 using W231 back in the late 90's and did what others are cautioning about and double charged a 230 gr fmj 45 acp. My go to load was 5.7 grs W231 and I charged 11.4 into the case. All it took was a second's distraction... It quite well blew up my Glock 21 during a match, bulging the barrel and slide, splitting the grip frame, and blew all the plastic off the trigger leaving a metal nub. I wasn't injured, got the shot, and Glock replaced the gun even though I told them I was using handloads. I wasn't injured and consider myself incredibly fortunate.
Unique was my first powder and it was suggested to me because of it's wide range of uses and bulkiness. I still use it for the majority of my 9mm on my Dillon because it's nearly impossible to double change without it spilling over. While it can be a bit messy, it's simply a great old powder. I use and/or have on hand pretty much every powder mentioned as they all have their particular uses.
I've also found that the powder company reps and tech assist folks to be incredible and often very responsive and helpful resources. During the last powder shortage shortage a rep from Alliant, via e-mail, helped me develop several loads using powder such as Green Dot for 130 gr PC 9mm we made. Good folks.
I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but as finances allow you might consider a Chronograph. I consider one an absolute necessity (for me, at this point in what I do). I handloaded a long time without one, but it's a standard part of load development in what I do now and I can't recommend one enough.
I use a Competition Electronics ProChrono and find it a value at around $120.00. (Midwayusa)
Glad you are getting into the arena. On some levels I enjoy handloading almost as much as shooting, not quite, but almost.
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