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Thread: Shotgun cleaning — best practice

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    Recently in the 1301 thread, there was some discussion of barrel leading from foster style slugs, degradation in accuracy from that, and cleaning methods. So what are folks experiencing, and what PM is being done to keep 1301/M2 class shotguns running?
    I’m responsible for cleaning pool shotguns after 400-500 foster slugs through each every qual cycle. The leading is terrible, although I can’t say if accuracy is degraded much given the human variation among shooters.

    For cleaning I like to fire a couple rounds of steel shot while the barrel is still hot and the lead malleable, as is seems to knock the worst of the lead out. If that’s not practical, then run the barrels in the heated ultrasonic for about 10 minutes. After that, I run a bronze brush wrapped in copper chore-boy for a few minutes while wetting the bore with Lucas ultrasonic solvent. Our barrels are improved cylinder, which makes the last inch or two at the muzzle a real pain in the butt with heavy leading.

    Anyone know of a 12g Lewis Lead Remover tool?


    ETA- Rem 870P with ghost rings.
    Last edited by DpdG; 09-10-2019 at 09:50 PM.
    Anything I post is my opinion alone as a private citizen.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DpdG View Post
    I’m responsible for cleaning pool shotguns after 400-500 foster slugs through each every qual cycle. The leading is terrible, although I can’t say if accuracy is degraded much given the human variation among shooters.

    For cleaning I like to fire a couple rounds of steel shot while the barrel is still hot and the lead malleable, as is seems to knock the worst of the lead out. If that’s not practical, then run the barrels in the heated ultrasonic for about 10 minutes. After that, I run a bronze brush wrapped in copper chore-boy for a few minutes while wetting the bore with Lucas ultrasonic solvent. Our barrels are improved cylinder, which makes the last inch or two at the muzzle a real pain in the butt with heavy leading.

    Anyone know of a 12g Lewis Lead Remover tool?


    ETA- Rem 870P with ghost rings.
    https://shop.brownells.com/gun-clean...SABEgIll_D_BwE

  3. #13
    Member That Guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clusterfrack View Post
    Yeah, it’s a PIA. I don’t clean it that way after every range trip, but leading can accelerate and even birdshot will start to build up after a point.
    How many rounds do you shoot between cleanings?

  4. #14
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by That Guy View Post
    How many rounds do you shoot between cleanings?
    When I used to shoot 3-gun, I'd go maybe 2-3 matches between cleanings. So ~200 birdshot and ~10 slugs? The thing is, it's much easier to clean if you do it soon after shooting.

    Right now, I don't shoot shotguns very much. My 1301 v.2 is fairly new, and I haven't had much time with it yet. I've cleaned it after every session. Because Type A, and it was a new gun. My buddy who is a tactical firearms instructor just bought a Langdon 1301 that arrives today. I'm guessing he'll want to do a big day of shotguns soon. I'll probably clean mine again after that.

    On the other hand my FN SLP mk1 hasn't been cleaned in years.
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  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    Recently in the 1301 thread, there was some discussion of barrel leading from foster style slugs, degradation in accuracy from that, and cleaning methods. So what are folks experiencing, and what PM is being done to keep 1301/M2 class shotguns running?
    No experience with the 1301 but with the M2 spaghetti blasters, my experience has been that they don't need much. Keep them lubed and they run. Keep the mag tube clean/dry and they run. All the crud goes out the barrel with the load unlike a gas gun. They're like energizer bunnies.

    When my barrel get crudded I use Ballistol and a tornado brush and if it's bad I'll break out the drill.

  6. #16
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    Pull boresnake through when I remember.

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    Gun works fine and wins matches.
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  7. #17
    Sorry for the necrobump and uber-n00b question, but is there any reason why my .30 cal rod wouldn’t work just fine when cleaning my 12ga barrels? Or do I actually need to have a shotgun rod?

  8. #18
    Just got my LTT 1301T about a week ago. The Beretta manual has the following about barrel cleaning:

    BARREL
    • Carefully clean the inside of the barrel
    with a soft cloth (flannel) to remove any
    combustion residue. If necessary, use a
    bronze brush or a cloth soaked with
    Beretta Gun Oil.
    • Thoroughly clean the locking shoulders
    on the barrel breech.
    • Pull a soft, clean, dry cloth through the
    barrel.
    • Lightly lubricate the barrel with a soft
    clean cloth soaked with Beretta Gun
    Oil
    .
    • Check the barrel. The barrel and
    cartridge chamber must be clean and
    free from obstructions.

    Didn't see any mention of anything more drastic than the bronze brush, but then neither did I see anything about slugs.

    I will say back when I bird hunted a lot, I ran cases through my auto and double shotguns each season, and just cleaned it with Hoppe's, followed by a brush, dry patch and then an oily patch. And they cleaned pretty easily. Slugs . . . maybe not.

    I'd not jump to a Flex Hone unless you're comfortable that you've exhausted less drastic measures and also have the right one. Used to rebuild the odd engine, and they make many variations. They do make firearm specific ones (and caliber and gauge specific), and in differing grits. Still, the instructions caution the user to limit the honing time, to use lubricant, not to use solvent, etc. In other words, used the right way, it might help. Used the wrong way . . .

    I'd start with the least impacting method, and only go to a more aggressive one if needed. Oh, I don't use Hoppe's any more, although I'm sure it works fine. I use M-Pro 7. No stink, and cleans OK for me.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jc000 View Post
    Sorry for the necrobump and uber-n00b question, but is there any reason why my .30 cal rod wouldn’t work just fine when cleaning my 12ga barrels? Or do I actually need to have a shotgun rod?
    A rifle rod works fine. A shotgun rod just saves you from having to fiddle with adapters.

    Typically you’ll need an 8-32 male to 5/16-27 female thread adapter to use most shotgun brushes. (FWIW, I strongly prefer the “Pro Shot” brand adapter, which has a tapered design so it doesn’t snag on the muzzle when withdrawing the rod.)

  10. #20
    Site Supporter P.E. Kelley's Avatar
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    As a owner of...lets just say a bunch of shotguns, I take a more industrial approach.

    12 gauge rod, chuck in a cordless drill motor. Brownells "Super Tough" bronze brush on the end.
    Barrel in soft jaw vise (leather or rubber) and hit it! Dry works best, no solvent to clean up.
    If it is REALLY bad, I'll wrap the brush with steel wool (single ought) or a strip of scotch bright.

    Stubborn wad material? No problem. I work the chamber forward 6" to 8" back and forth (have ya ever honed a piston hole?)
    Then go full length about 6 times and check my work. Be aware that a screw in choke will...unscrew. It the chokes gets nasty
    I hit it from the muzzle end.

    In the world of cleaning guns...I look at them as mechanical devices, and lube often and clean when needed.
    Needed it NOT after every outing. Run a few guns to "dirt failure" and note the ammo consumption and environment.

    You'll then have data driven cleaning schedule.
    Guns are just machines and without you they can do no harm, nor any good

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