Fort Knox Gun Safes Article

[Tokarev]

There have been other gunsafe threads in the past which are probably worth finding. That said, Fort Knox is one of the few brands i'd recommend. I usually point people in the direction of the Amsec BF series since Amsec is pretty much the only "gun" safe with real fire protection (not just wall board).

I've always found Ft. Knox to be good looking safes. When I was looking, I didn't want to pay for a good looking safe, I wanted more steel and less time spent on a paint job that no one will ever see.

That said Ft. Knox (and pretty much everyone) has a better dealer network than Amsec so they will probably be easier to source. If you order one, make sure that you specify a layer of steel on the inside (it's not standard) so that if you have a fire, wallboard is not crumbling and turning to steam all over you possessions. Not to mention the security benefit.

Be mindful that many of the big boy companies like to play word games with steel gages. They'll say that their safes are 8, 10, 11 gage, etc. but in reality are multiple thinner sheets layered up to equal said gage. The only thing that is good for is profit margins since several thinner layers are cheaper than one thicker one.

As you may know, there is no gun safe that's truly rated for fire and/or none have passed the UL fire tests. Not that I've been able to find anyway.

Fort Knox has an M line that certainty meets the "less pretty more metal" criteria. These safes are more old school. No composite multi-layer fire door that's probably in reality 10 or 11 gauge with sheetrock inside. They use solid plate doors and 3/16" bodies.

CE Safes in Florida has since been selling an M3 and M4 safe. The CE website says these are exclusive to him. IIRC, the M2 was also a CE exclusive but market demand was there so Ft Knox now sells these through their bigger dealers. Anyways, the M3 and M4 are pretty beefy and appear to meet the B and C series safe requirements.

Another thing that Ft Knox is not doing is using a door with a reinforced edge. Some companies are making doors that are relatively thin sheetmetal for the actual door but then weld a thick piece around the lip. This makes the door actually look way thicker than it actually is.



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[drummer]

As you may know, there is no gun safe that's truly rated for fire and/or none have passed the UL fire tests. Not that I've been able to find anyway.

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Yeah, but being that Amsec does manufacture commercial grade UL 1 and 2 hour certified safes, I trust their engineering to get it right more so than joe blow the gunsafe maker. Depends on how much fire protection means to the buyer.

As I said before, Ft. Knox is one of the few RSC makers than can build a good product, you just have to know what you're specs are, same as any other gunsafe. I've found the RSC/ gunsafe market to be akin to the body armor one, a lot of snake oil salesman and shenanigans.

[Tokarev]

Here's the M line as sold by CE Safes:

https://www.cesafes.com/fort-knox-m-series

And pricing info:

https://www.westcoastsafes.com/produ.../m2-gun-safes/

[JTQ]

Skill levels are pretty low, so I'd bet that if they recognized a torch and tried to use it, your house is getting burned down. I could see them using a stolen 1 ton to yank a safe from a garage or room with exterior door access, though. They're pretty into vehicle smash and grabs these days.

I've often wondered about the pros and cons of bolting a safe to the floor.

It seems as if those that come with enough gear to carry away a safe probably have the gear to defeat the bolt to the floor. I don't know enough about securing something that size to a floor though.

I've also wondered if simply not letting folks (friends, neighbors, contractors, etc.) know you have a safe, and the valuables one would put in them, is the best security. Fire, of course, is a different issue.

Since it is local, I'll always remember this home invasion. A crew, dressed in "ninja" garb, led by a guy who had done business with the homeowner, and was familiar with the house, broke in, killed the owners, and took the safe away in a van.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Murder...lanie_Billings

[mmc45414]

I finnaly got mine bolted to the floor in a corner with the hinge side away from the wall. It was always my understanding that some can be pried into, but not on the hinge side, so making it so a lever is blocked by a wall helps. If it is not bolted down it can be tipped onto it's back and worked at from all angles.

I think the most vulnerable are the folks in the country where shitheads have time to work and all the tools they need are out back in the barn.

It was mentioned about thieves cutting their way into houses, a friend had that happen to his shop, the door was wired so they tin snipped the metal siding.

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[Wake27]

I’d be kind of surprised if anyone was actual able to work on my safe. It’s not bolted yet, but it’s 1k pounds empty so it’s not the easiest to pick up and move. And it should get bolted soon. Plus I didn’t pay too much attention, but it’s a higher end liberty and it seems like they do a pretty good job. I do need to get a cover though. The cabinet one looks cool but I can’t tell if you can access it with the cover still on. Liberty’s is all black so not disguised, but you can zip up both sides to access to door at least.


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[Tokarev]

I’d be kind of surprised if anyone was actual able to work on my safe. It’s not bolted yet, but it’s 1k pounds empty so it’s not the easiest to pick up and move. And it should get bolted soon. Plus I didn’t pay too much attention, but it’s a higher end liberty and it seems like they do a pretty good job. I do need to get a cover though. The cabinet one looks cool but I can’t tell if you can access it with the cover still on. Liberty’s is all black so not disguised, but you can zip up both sides to access to door at least.


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An interesting thing with Liberty is that they are folded up from the bottom. The fold goes up one side, top and then down the one side and welded. Then the back plate is welded on.

In theory a Liberty safe, bolted down with its back agaisnt the wall, will have no attackable weld seems since the seems are all on the back and down along one bottom corner. More conventional safe construction is to fold the body so that a top and bottom plate are welded on. Even when bolted against a well a safe like this will have an exposed seem around the top.

Probably really only an academic discussion point.

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[URIT]

I have a Fort Knox Maverick 6031. I bought it from a local FK dealer at a great Memorial Day sale price and had them deliver it into my home. It safeguards valuable papers, jewelry, and my firearms from welcomed and unwelcomed visitors while providing fire and humidity protection. It meets my needs at an affordable price.

[FAS1]

I've often wondered about the pros and cons of bolting a safe to the floor.

It seems as if those that come with enough gear to carry away a safe probably have the gear to defeat the bolt to the floor. I don't know enough about securing something that size to a floor though.

Hire a professional to bolt it down for you. Money well spent.

It's not that the thieves will take the safe, but that if they throw it on it's back they can get a whole lot more body leverage to pry the door.

Prying starts at 2:30 minute.

[Tokarev]

if they throw it on it's back they can get a whole lot more body leverage to pry the door.

Prying starts at 2:30 minute.

That was a low end import.

Still rated as an RSC however.

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