Negative.Originally Posted by Tokarev
They're steel gun cabinets with a construction not much more robust than a Stack-On, SecureIT or Snap Safe. I just went through why, and offered safes that cost just as much or less that are built much better.
If you're going to spend the money, spend it on actual security, not just the appearance of.
"Are you ready? Okay. Let's roll."- Last words of Todd Beamer
If money is no object then certainly buy whatever you want. If you're independently wealthy or married to a trauma surgeon then buy a TRTL30X6 for your exotic machinegun collection. If you're not rich yet make some decent money and have some pretty nice stuff then get a BFII or a Fort Knox Titan or something along those lines. If you can't afford any of these options then someting like a Liberty Franklin or a FK Maverick is better than nothing and frankly probably perfectly adequate for most realistic threats. Everyone wants the best money can buy but that's not always possible. Key is doing something rather than hiding guns under the bed and hoping for the best.
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I haven't seen a whole lot, and we're not there long enough to see the aftermath. I'd like to hear from an insurance adjuster or investigator, those are the people who are still involved when the safe gets opened. Even for those folks, I think it'd be hard to generalize as no two fires are really alike.
My under-researched opinion is that I wouldn't trust anything less than a UL rated fire SAFE ( emphatically not RSC) in a real fire.
I also think you can do just as well ( against fire) by putting a stack-on cabinet is a walk in closet by itself, double layer the drywall, and put a 1 hour rated door assembly on it. A lot cheaper, and probably DIY-able by most of us.
I have seen plenty of cars catch fire in garages, and as long as the door between the garage and house is closed, and we put the fire out is a reasonable ( 20-30 minutes from when it started) amount of time, the only thing that gets in the house is smoke, which is pretty unavoidable.
( I just researched, posted, and then deleted a bunch of boring statistics. I'll post them later in the thread if anyone actually cares.)
'Nobody ever called the fire department because they did something intelligent'
Please.
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OK, here goes.
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) collects and publishes fire and fire loss statistics. The data comes from the states, and in Ohio, and I believe the majority of states, fire department reporting of this data to the state is mandatory. I've never heard of any of the sort of stuff that goes on with, say, crime reporting-there's no real incentive to do so.
NFPA's latest numbers are from 2017. That year there were 262,500 fires in one and two family homes. Total fire loss from those fires was 6.1 billion dollars, which makes the loss per fire about $23,400.
According to Zillow, the median home price in the US is $229,000. Add 50% for value of contents ( a pretty normal insurance coverage limit, although USAA gives me 75%) brings the median value of building and contents to around $345,000.
Doing the math, that gives us a loss of about 6.8% of the total value of our notional median house. Most of that 'average' fire damage is smoke damage, and fireman damage ( water, broken windows, holes in walls, roofs, etc). That's not a lot of fire in the average fire.
It's really the same conversation as we have when we talk about carry guns, locks, the burglar side of safes, etc. Covering the first 80 or 90 percent of what's possible is a lot cheaper/easier than that last 10-20 percent. Everybody's got to make their own assessment, our circumstances are all different.
That said, my under-researched opinion is that I wouldn't trust anything without a UL fire rating (Class 350) for a major fire. That said, if you put a stack-on cabinet in a walk in closet with no other flammables, put a 1 hour exterior door on it, and double the drywall, that should stand up to anything less than the house collapsing around it, for way less money, and probably DIY-able, for most of us here.
I've seen plenty of cars catch fire in attached garages. IF the door to the house is closed, and IF there's drywall on the inside of the garage without holes in it, and IF we get the fire knocked down in a reasonable amount of time ( 20 or so minutes from when the fire starts), nothing gets into the main part of the house but smoke.
If someone calls 911 when the kitchen smoke detector goes off, and you're urban or suburban, 20 minutes is easy. If you're out in a rural area with longer response times, and 911 gets called when the garage windows blow out or the overhead door fails, that's a whole different fire.
'Nobody ever called the fire department because they did something intelligent'
A couple interesting videos.
Fire protection might not work in all cases but it does work sometimes.
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Last edited by Tokarev; 08-27-2019 at 03:09 PM.
Don't forget Pendelton!! They spend all of their time on the beautiful, car-like paint job w/pin-striping, and the fancy spinning gun rack, but if you knock on the side like you would a door, it sounds like a tin garbage can! All show, and no go!
If you want to install it in your living room, like a piece of furniture, to impress your friends who know nothing about safes, great choice; but, if you want real security, buy something else.
The only thing Liberty does well is marketing and selling...They could be the Springfield Armory of the RSC world.
See my earlier post regarding RSC manufacturers that advertise a certain steel gage but use multiple plies to equate to it.
https://www.libertysafe.com/how-are-...1-24da0e68a5a8
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More gun safe purchase info:
https://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/best-gun-safes/
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