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Thread: P220 Trigger help

  1. #1
    Site Supporter GreggW's Avatar
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    P220 Trigger help

    My dad has a P220 he purchased back in the Ď80ís when his department transitioned to them from revolvers. Itís a folded slide, internal extractor, original grooved trigger, etc.

    The DA trigger has an issue. Without a magazine in the pistol itís fine. With a magazine in the pistol there is a very heavy hitch in the trigger right before it breaks. The magazine feels like it moves a little bit as the trigger is pressed.

    I assume there is some interference with the trigger bar but Iím not sure what is causing it. Trying to figure out what my course of action should be.

    Itís not a high round count gun. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 5k rounds. Recoil spring was replaced recently, locking block was replaced at some point, same with pins in the slide. Dad was a Sig armorer and he did all the scheduled maintenance on his IOP and issued P220 but that was years ago.

    Thanks in advance.

    @LSP552
    @taadski
    ďIf you know the way broadly you will see it in everything." - Miyamoto Musashi

  2. #2
    Member John Hearne's Avatar
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    Pop the right side grip panel off and watch it function. ID what is dragging and adjust accordingly. FWIW, the back side of the trigger bar spring will often drag on the magazine. Thatís my wet finger in the air guess. Iíd grind just a bit off of mine to make sure the mags dropped freee.
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  3. #3
    Site Supporter taadski's Avatar
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    Gregg,

    Pull the right grip panel and the slide and then insert a mag and it'll give you a good view of the likely interference spots. Make sure the trigger bar spring is correctly installed (lots of folks want to put the rearward end in the hole instead of the notch on the base edge). And also ensure it's clearing the grip panel adequately. There are a couple of generations of springs (looped vs not) that could be in there, the former being the more modern and robust rendition. If the grips were replaced at some point, or if he installed the looped version with original grips, it'll make sense to ensure there's not any interference, as that can be a thing.

    Also, on the single stack P series pistols (245, 239, 225/P6), the vertical (alignment) tab on the trigger bar lays lateral on the outside/grip side of the frame. Ensure it's not binding on anything, in the event it got tweaked during re-install or something. The single stack trigger bar is a bit more of a PITA to install than the versions that ride on the medial side of the frame IME.

    Another rule out is to ensure the sear safety lever moves freely as it rises to meet the safety lock (on the slide). Ensure it isn't tweaked and bumping the magazine as it rises, as they are in very close proximity to one another. There are a few different versions of the safety levers, to include the SRT ones. Just ensure it's functioning properly and isn't the cause of the hitch you're feeling.

    Anyway, those are some things to look at. I'd be happy to do a FaceTime walk through of any of the above if that'd help also. Just drop me a pm.


    t

  4. #4
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    Hi Gregg,

    Sorry for a late response, but I have nothing to add to the posts above. If I were a betting man, trigger bar spring not installed correctly or bent. The other question would be what kind of grips? Rubber Hogue grips at one time rubbed on stuff and caused a number of problems.

    FYI, Iím so not current on Armorer stuff.

  5. #5
    Site Supporter GreggW's Avatar
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    It does have the rubber Hogues. Iíll take a look as soon as I get home. Thanks all.
    ďIf you know the way broadly you will see it in everything." - Miyamoto Musashi

  6. #6
    Member Trooper224's Avatar
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    One warning: be very careful when tightening the grip screws. Sig threaded them directly into the frame without steel screw bushings. It's all too easy to strip the threads if you aren't careful.
    Put your Big Boy pants on.

  7. #7
    Site Supporter GreggW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by taadski View Post
    Gregg,

    Pull the right grip panel and the slide and then insert a mag and it'll give you a good view of the likely interference spots. Make sure the trigger bar spring is correctly installed (lots of folks want to put the rearward end in the hole instead of the notch on the base edge).


    t
    I finally had a chance to look at this today. This was the problem. Spring was in the hole and not the notch.

    Thanks again all for taking the time to help.
    Last edited by GreggW; 08-01-2019 at 08:35 PM.
    ďIf you know the way broadly you will see it in everything." - Miyamoto Musashi

  8. #8
    Site Supporter NEPAKevin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreggW View Post
    I finally had a chance to look at this today. This was the problem. Spring was in the hole and not the notch.

    Thanks again all for taking the time to help.
    FWIW, I did that the first time I took apart a 220 and the spring (old style with out the loop) had to be replaced. Another spring you can easily damage is the hammer reset spring which happens if the hammer is allowed to drop when the slide is not on the frame.

  9. #9
    Member John Hearne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEPAKevin View Post
    Another spring you can easily damage is the hammer reset spring which happens if the hammer is allowed to drop when the slide is not on the frame.
    I've never had to replace a hammer rebound spring in any classic Sig but a P220. I've had to replace several in 220's which amazes me since it seems like a part that would be pretty robust.
    • It's not the odds, it's the stakes.
    • If you aren't dry practicing every week, you're not serious.....
    • "Tache-Psyche Effect - a polite way of saying 'You suck.' " - GG

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