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Thread: "Official Ruger LCR Thread"

  1. #121
    Since sight upgrades are a perennial question, I tried a quick experiment, shooting Dave Spaulding’s “Fade Back” with my .38 LCR, right alongside a friend’s gun. The two are identical except that mine has the Meprolight night sights with the John O DIY high visibility sight treatment ("]URL="http://pistol-training.com/articles/the-johno-diy-high-visibility-front-sight"]) and his has the XS Standard Dot. Results are below:

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    I was very pleased with these results, and especially with not completely tanking at 25 yards. I usually pull more to the left and seem to have controlled that better today. For my bottom line, I’m not changing anything for the moment.
    Last edited by Gun Nerd; 01-18-2021 at 04:34 PM.

  2. #122
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Got a chance to shoot the Ruger LCR .38 with the new Novak Tritium "Mega Dot" front sights. This was the second cylinder of Federal Gold Medal Match Wadcutter, at 5 yards. This sight seems to be a good match for the gun/ammo.

    Attachment 41121

    I will add, I did apply some knowledge I'd gained here on the "how to grip a revolver" thread. I adjusted my support hand to keep out of the way of the cylinder, and used a kindof thumb over thumb grip I'd seen. Seemed to work better for me.
    Well I have a question on grip. I've shot a few cylinders of both S&B and Federal GMM the last couple range visits. Generally to a 5" circle at 5 yards. Seemingly no matter what I do at the moment, I am getting groups centered, but high and left by about 5" each. I'm a lefty. If I adjust my aim on the sights to place the Novak front dot about 5" low and right, I can center rounds in the middle. I use a "dot" hold.

    I appreciate this is difficult to diagnose over the internet, but the main question I have is, do you guys use a C-Clamp grip or a modified thumbs forward semi-auto grip?

    By "C clamp" I mean where the support hand covers the shooting hand in a "C" grip. By semi auto, I mean where the support hand palm presses on the weak side of the gun and the fingers wrap around under the strong hand. Here's what my "semiauto" grip looks like, more or less:

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    I have the normal stocks that come with the gun, an LCR Model 5401 in .38 special. I'm going to go with one or the other in some dedicated dry practice, and try next range trip, to see if I can figure this out.
    TIA.

  3. #123
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    Rich, I’m not entirely sure I understand the issue, but I will say that sometimes rounds that are loaded to a significantly different velocity can do some weird things when printing out of revolvers. I’ve especially noticed this with 110 magnum and +P+ loads; those things can be way off, even to the side, compared to heavier loads. How do standard pressure 158 grainers print for you with that LCR?
    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

  4. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Well I have a question on grip. I've shot a few cylinders of both S&B and Federal GMM the last couple range visits. Generally to a 5" circle at 5 yards. Seemingly no matter what I do at the moment, I am getting groups centered, but high and left by about 5" each. I'm a lefty. If I adjust my aim on the sights to place the Novak front dot about 5" low and right, I can center rounds in the middle. I use a "dot" hold.

    I appreciate this is difficult to diagnose over the internet, but the main question I have is, do you guys use a C-Clamp grip or a modified thumbs forward semi-auto grip?

    By "C clamp" I mean where the support hand covers the shooting hand in a "C" grip. By semi auto, I mean where the support hand palm presses on the weak side of the gun and the fingers wrap around under the strong hand. Here's what my "semiauto" grip looks like, more or less:

    Name:  IMG_6832.jpg
Views: 773
Size:  17.7 KB

    I have the normal stocks that come with the gun, an LCR Model 5401 in .38 special. I'm going to go with one or the other in some dedicated dry practice, and try next range trip, to see if I can figure this out.
    TIA.
    In the pictures it appears you have your trigger finger with the first joint on the trigger. If I get in that far, there is a tendency to pull shots to the strong side. Try putting the middle of the pad on the trigger, and concentrate on a straight pull. Dry fire with both placements and see if you can detect a difference in movement of the front sight.

  5. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtfarmer View Post
    In the pictures it appears you have your trigger finger with the first joint on the trigger. If I get in that far, there is a tendency to pull shots to the strong side. Try putting the middle of the pad on the trigger, and concentrate on a straight pull. Dry fire with both placements and see if you can detect a difference in movement of the front sight.
    In addition to doing the above:

    Try to grip the gun so that the central axis of the barrel aligns with the central axis of your forearm when viewed from above. This should better align the forces generated by squeezing the trigger for a straight back pull.

    Try curling the weak side thumb over the strong side thumb, with both thumbs curled down. A semiauto thumbs forward grip does not work as well with revolvers.


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  6. #126
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    I use a ‘semi auto’ grip. It what does that have to do with POI?

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  7. #127
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Quote Originally Posted by Totem Polar View Post
    Rich, I’m not entirely sure I understand the issue, but I will say that sometimes rounds that are loaded to a significantly different velocity can do some weird things when printing out of revolvers. I’ve especially noticed this with 110 magnum and +P+ loads; those things can be way off, even to the side, compared to heavier loads. How do standard pressure 158 grainers print for you with that LCR?
    Thanks yeah did not come out clear, probably.

    To restate: Gun is the same. Sights are the same. Ammo is the same (same box of Federal GMM). Issue also happens with a new box of S&B WC’s, which are 148gr. I don’t have any other .38 other that Federal GMM and the S&B.

    The high and left has happened w 40 ish rounds over two range visits.

    Used to put rounds under the dot. Like this:

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    I just need to remember how I did that, and do it again.

  8. #128
    Chasing the Horizon RJ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BillSWPA View Post

    Try curling the weak side thumb over the strong side thumb, with both thumbs curled down. A semiauto thumbs forward grip does not work as well with revolvers.
    Thanks Bill, I forgotten about that option.

  9. #129
    Deadeye Dick Clusterfrack's Avatar
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    "Official Ruger LCR Thread"

    I would like try an OWB holster for the LCR. I would appreciate any help. Candidates are:

    Kusiak OWB
    https://kusiakleather.com/products/theoutsider-holster

    Kramer Vertical Scabbard
    https://www.kramerleather.com/produc...tical-scabbard

    Milt Sparks PMK
    https://www.miltsparks.com/products-pmk.php
    Last edited by Clusterfrack; 01-20-2021 at 08:34 PM.
    "You can never have too many knives." --Joe Ambercrombie
    Shabbat shalom, motherf***ers! --Mordechai Jefferson Carver

  10. #130
    Member kjr_29's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clusterfrack View Post
    I would like try an OWB holster for the LCR. I would appreciate any help. Candidates are:

    Kusiak OWB
    https://kusiakleather.com/products/theoutsider-holster

    Kramer Vertical Scabbard
    https://www.kramerleather.com/produc...tical-scabbard

    Milt Sparks PMK
    https://www.miltsparks.com/products-pmk.php
    Those all look like fantastic choices. The Kusiak looked to be my favorite but the Milt would be a great investment.

    I recently found this 1836 by Tagua locally to use while waiting for some proper Kydex. It’s ok so far, though it could be a little more flexible to conform to my hip. Might need a few more days of wear to fully break in.

    https://www.taguagunleather.com/product/tx-fort/


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