Why we clean and inspect

[Drang]

<thread drift>
My retirement job is working in a bike shop. I've had a version of the following conversation numerous times:

Me: "Your chain's rusted and seized to the point it needs to be replaced. What do you lube it with?"

Customer: "WD-40."

Me: "WD-40 isn't a lubricant."

Customer: "Huh?"
</thread drift>

<continuing thread drift>
Back in the 70s, I worked in my buddy's bike shop during summer break from college.

We had that conversation at least once a week.
</thread drift>

[RevolverRob]

Got the parts in earlier this afternoon and was home a little early. So I managed to get the slide stop fitted, but didn't have enough time to hit the range, today. I settled for a very vigorous dryfire session. I didn't have a single unintentional lockback when running ST action pro dummies in the mags. No orange plastic shaved off on the lobe of the stop, visual inspection shows plenty of clearance from the bullet to the stop. Solid lock back on empty mags. Should be good to go, but of course, shooting guns is different than dry-firing them, and could reveal something. But it looks and feels good.

FYI, the 10-8 slide stop is awesome. Slightly oversized on the pin to fit through the frame without excessive pressure, so I had to use a frame and slide fitting file to thin it. Took maybe three passes around the pin before it slid in and out perfectly, requiring only a modicum of pressure to remove when indexed. It's also angled where it interacts with the slide-stop plunger. Allowing it to be "wiggled" back into place with just a little bit of pressure. As opposed to trying to cram a GI slide stop into place (or worse, getting the "idiot" mark. No need for a 'Widget' or flat head screwdriver, or cursing. Just a little wiggle back and forth and it will slide right in (that's what she said?). Only thing I don't like it about it, the pad itself is a little sharp. Some light stoning and cold blue should resolve that.

Once I had the cast slide stop back out, I took a look at it with my magnifiers at 10x, I could see it was actually starting to get lightly deformed around the casting flaw. Nothing that screams, "I'm gonna fail right now!", but still, nothing good.

[Clark Jackson]

In the past I've found that using WD40 for what it's designed for (Water Displacement formula 40...) after a tap water rinse, then spraying with something like Gun Scrubber to get the WD40 out, then lubing as I normally would, works really well to keep rust out of the gun after it's been underwater and I can't detail the gun out anytime soon.

I've also found this works after your Glock has been in sea water. Tap water, hotel blow dryer, then lube can also get you by post salt water exposure.

Someone actually knows what WD40 actually means! Drives me nuts when people think it is a lubricant.

I love me some Simple Green and a Harbor Freight sonic cleaner prior to a gun inspection/lubrication.

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