J Frame Trigger Questions

[Polecat]

Gang,

I was confused about the plethora of trigger / actions available from the factory on these little guns. I tried to clear things up at the last NRA show her in the ATL, when I asked one of the factory guys at the J frame counter about the true differences in the performance center trigger vs. the pro series. He stated the pro series have lighter rebound and hammer springs, and the PC guns have additional polishing of parts.

I guess if the factory in fact uses lighter springs, that is an endorsement as to their reliability / safety?

How much improvement can just polishing these key parts offer to the pull without altering the springs?

Interestingly I bought a 437 “combat” that had a trigger pull that was fantastic straight out of the box on a new gun.

Thanks for your insight.
Dave

[Speederlander]

From discussions on the brian enos forum on this topic and with TK custom, a highly skilled action job can get you close to 8lb while staying reliable, but you won't get that from the factory.

[Dave T]

I have long believed, and been backed up by a factory trained armorer and master gunsmith I know, that smooth is more important than light. Problem is most people (cops in particular) want a light trigger. When they get it, usually by backing off on the strain screw, they get miss fires. Where as a smooth trigger, with a little training/practice will get you holes in the intended target.

YMMV,
Dave

[Hizzie]

Heavy n smooth > light n rough

Light n smooth > heavy n smooth

[Wingate's Hairbrush]

Gang,

I was confused about the plethora of trigger / actions available from the factory on these little guns. I tried to clear things up at the last NRA show her in the ATL, when I asked one of the factory guys at the J frame counter about the true differences in the performance center trigger vs. the pro series. He stated the pro series have lighter rebound and hammer springs, and the PC guns have additional polishing of parts.

I guess if the factory in fact uses lighter springs, that is an endorsement as to their reliability / safety?

How much improvement can just polishing these key parts offer to the pull without altering the springs?

Interestingly I bought a 437 “combat” that had a trigger pull that was fantastic straight out of the box on a new gun.

Thanks for your insight.
Dave

It's certainly possible that S&W has made recent changes, but for as long the "Pro" series has been available it's been understood that they're production guns, untuned. "Pro" is a marketing designation for special configurations, but does not denote smoothed actions or lightened springs. I know the ones I've been inside of weren't any different from standard.

Again, might be changes of late, but I also know as many S&W reps you ask, you can get different answers depending on the question.

Proper, knowledgeable smoothing and spring tuning can make for a nicer J trigger pull and reset, certainly better than most stock, but there are limitations to J lockwork and geometry that make tuning improvements limited compared to K and larger frames; a fact to be accepted and worked with rather than chasing what can't be caught.

From discussions on the brian enos forum on this topic and with TK custom, a highly skilled action job can get you close to 8lb while staying reliable, but you won't get that from the factory.

On a K, L or N frame, definitely yes. On a J, with common factory defense ammo?

I have long believed, and been backed up by a factory trained armorer and master gunsmith I know, that smooth is more important than light. Problem is most people (cops in particular) want a light trigger. When they get it, usually by backing off on the strain screw, they get miss fires. Where as a smooth trigger, with a little training/practice will get you holes in the intended target.

YMMV,
Dave

Agreed, and in case it isn't clear to somer readers, the strain screw is NOT a trigger adjustment device -- it needs to set firmly in place and left alone.

[Dagga Boy]

What I find to be critical with the very light J frames is they need a smooth light trigger. Apex kits are almost mandatory in my M&P 340’s and PD Guns. The momentum building on a gun that light gets a big movement on the gun just as the hammer is released.

[spinmove_]

What I find to be critical with the very light J frames is they need a smooth light trigger. Apex kits are almost mandatory in my M&P 340’s and PD Guns. The momentum building on a gun that light gets a big movement on the gun just as the hammer is released.

Do you ever have any issues with light strikes with those kits?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[okie john]

Agreed, and in case it isn't clear to somer readers, the strain screw is NOT a trigger adjustment device -- it needs to set firmly in place and left alone.

Also, unless something has changed, J-frames don't have a strain screw.


Okie John

[Fordtough25]

I actually do not hate my 642's factory trigger, it's heavy of course but smooth and I have shot it enough to know where the ledge is for a clean shot. Lots of dry fire practice as well, maybe that helped?

[eb07]

I send all my j frames down to Nelson Ford in Phoenix for action jobs and I have never had an issue with one.