I also widened the c&s rear sight on my m66 and discovered the Wilson main spring doesn't work. Fortunately I was able to utilize all three of the trigger return springs in various guns.
I'm tempted to snip a little off the 66s hammer. It hasn't snagged or been an issue but I really like the shortened spur on my son's m64 now.
Wilson main spring doesn't work. Can you elaborate?
Formerly known as xpd54.
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Sorry, I was getting 1-2 light strikes per cylinder. I actually had some old primers in my range bag and attempted to put one on the strain screw but the new 66s doesn't have the clearance to make it work.Originally Posted by Lon
The Wilson is shorter in length too.
Ive been getting some light strikes with the replacement spring I put in my 67, even with an extended firing pin. I think it's a Wilson. I cranked the strain screw all the way down and it seems to have cured the problem.
Formerly known as xpd54.
The opinions expressed in this post are my own and do not reflect the opinions or policies of my employer.
www.gunsnobbery.wordpress.com
My strain screw was cranked down as much as possible.
I can't really complain. My m66 got the 14# trigger return spring and after cleaning up the inside it has a good trigger. With the wilson mainspring it felt great but oh well.
The 13# went into my 64 and the 12# went into the 64-5. Both feel better.
I had a square butt smith revolver, I don’t remember the model, with a “good” trigger pull that was plagued with light primer hits. The strain screw was tight. I replaced the main spring. Still light hits. As a last resort I bought a new strain screw. The light primer hits went away.
When looking at the two strain screws the one in revolver was shorter than the new screw. Someone had shortened the screw or put a round butt strain screw in the revolver to get a “good” trigger pull.
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Back in the day, some 'smiths would install a set screw to bear against the strain screw, so you could adjust the strain screw to where it was reliable and then lock it down.
Most of my S&Ws are older ones with the hammer-mounted firing pin. Switching to the Wolff reduced-power mainspring and tightening the strain screw all the way usually resulted in improved DA trigger pull and reliable function.
Back in the day, stoning the strain screw (just a little) was part of cleaning up trigger pull. The line between perfect and light strikes was really thin.
"Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA
Beware of my temper, and the dog that I've found...
A different way and I think better way, to a lighter trigger on a smith is to grid the sides of the main spring making it thinner. It doesn’t take much. I don’t remember how much, it has been a long time since I thinned a main spring. Springs are cheap and easy to replace and return the revolver to factory specs.
I would not use a thinned main spring in a smith used for protection.
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I plan on doing a S&W 547 style hammer on my 65 when I get it back, I have a spare hammer on which I'm going to attempt this mod. I rarely shoot single action but I like the nub hammer look.
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