Trimmed a couple hammers today

[LtDave]

Back in the day, stoning the strain screw (just a little) was part of cleaning up trigger pull. The line between perfect and light strikes was really thin.

The original length strain screw will have a rounded tip that bears against the mainspring. If it is flat, it has been shortened. Round butt guns use a shorter strain screw than square butt guns.

[rsa-otc]

You may also want to check the amount of play in the cylinder. To much play will result in light strikes as well. You can order "Powers" cylinder shims from Brownells to correct this. These shims have cured some timing issues in the past as well.

I have never tried the Wilson Main Spring but have used the Wolf Power Rib springs in the past, both standard and reduced strength. Unfortunately my experience with the Wolf springs is that the strain screw falls within the recess of the power rib and doesn't put enough tension on the spring and you get light strikes as well. The old used primer on the end of the strain screw corrects this 99% of the time.

Beware going to light on the rebound springs. You can easily go too light and end up out running the trigger at speed. I found the 14# spring to be the least problematic. It is my understanding that Jerry runs only full strength rebound springs for this reason. Also stick with full length rebound springs don't be tempted to snip a coin or to off lest there be issues.

[LtDave]

You may also want to check the amount of play in the cylinder. To much play will result in light strikes as well. You can order "Powers" cylinder shims from Brownells to correct this. These shims have cured some timing issues in the past as well.

I have never tried the Wilson Main Spring but have used the Wolf Power Rib springs in the past, both standard and reduced strength. Unfortunately my experience with the Wolf springs is that the strain screw falls within the recess of the power rib and doesn't put enough tension on the spring and you get light strikes as well. The old used primer on the end of the strain screw corrects this 99% of the time.

Beware going to light on the rebound springs. You can easily go too light and end up out running the trigger at speed. I found the 14# spring to be the least problematic. It is my understanding that Jerry runs only full strength rebound springs for this reason. Also stick with full length rebound springs don't be tempted to snip a coin or to off lest there be issues.

The "play" that rsa-otc references is also known as end shake, a front to back movement of the cylinder when closed. Causes excess headspace. An alternative to shims is peening the yoke to stretch it. That is the old school factory method to correct end shake. Another method is to use a pipe cutter to stretch the yoke. For most folks, the shims are probably the best option.

IMHO the best rebound spring to use is the S&W factory one intended for use in SA only guns. Probably a little hard to find nowadays. Too light on the rebound springs slows down the trigger return and makes the action feel "wrong".