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Thread: Robar NP3+ on Action Parts

  1. #11
    Site Supporter Rapid Butterfly's Avatar
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    I have two Langdon Berettas with np3 (elite LTT and a Px4CC) on the internals and mags, with one more LTT on order. Iím a fan. Comparing my Px4CCs with np3 and without reveals, as others have said, more an increased smoothness than anything, though I havenít scientifically measured the pull of the two. For me, the np3 is about protection and durability.

    Based on how the np3 mags feel and how I manipulate the slides on these weapons, I donít feel like Iíd hesitate all that much to np3 a slide, other than for cost reasons when cerakote is less expensive and also seems durable. But if I ever try it Iíll do it on my nightstand 92 first, rather than one that gets fired in rainy matches.
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  2. #12
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    Count me as an experienced user and advocate of NP3 on action parts. My experience goes back to the middle 1990s, when I had a Weigand Combat SP-101 go to Robar for NP3. Since then I have had Robar do 1911-pattern pistols, Glock pistols, Beretta pistols, HK P7M8 pistols, and Volquartsen (Ruger Standard) uppers and bolts. NP3 does not decrease or increase the action weight; it is just lube that protects the metal. The gun can be run with no additional lube but I often add Remington's DriLube. I find it extremely useful when the gun is being used in dusty or sandy area as wet lube tends to capture dust and sand.

    I have had slide manipulation issues with NP3 when my hands were wet. The PTFE that makes the coating act as lube also makes it quite slippery when wet, especially in the absence of a traction treatment or with a compromised grip.

    That being said, I have not tried the coating on a P30. I find that whatever HK uses seems to be pretty tough and can be lubed with DriLube.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Rapid Butterfly View Post
    I have two Langdon Berettas with np3 (elite LTT and a Px4CC) on the internals and mags, with one more LTT on order. Iím a fan. Comparing my Px4CCs with np3 and without reveals, as others have said, more an increased smoothness than anything, though I havenít scientifically measured the pull of the two. For me, the np3 is about protection and durability.

    Based on how the np3 mags feel and how I manipulate the slides on these weapons, I donít feel like Iíd hesitate all that much to np3 a slide, other than for cost reasons when cerakote is less expensive and also seems durable. But if I ever try it Iíll do it on my nightstand 92 first, rather than one that gets fired in rainy matches.
    I have a TJIAB, that has NP3 on it, as well as two LTT Elites with the trigger jobs. The NP3 does feels smoother.

    Also have done CPII (nickle boron instead of nickle teflon) on several PX4's (although most have EL's NP3 bobbed hammer). On one PX4 I had the slide done in Dusk (black nickle boron), to see both how I would like it and hoped it would make cleaning easier (range gun/experiment). The internals are CPII covered factory, with the polishing done based on what was shown on the Beretta forum and comparing it to LTT TJIAB for the PX4. It is easier to clean. For a couple reasons, I sent in a stainless PX4. The one that would make a bigger difference in this conversation is the way the slides are cut. On the standard PX4, the serrations have more of a point, on the stainless, they are flat (easier to grab).

    There are various reasons that I picked CPII over NP3 in most cases:
    Sales/price (in which case I waited a bit longer then what I sent to Robar)
    My amount of use, verses someone in law enforcement (they need both the advantage and speed, rather then someone whose option is to go from danger rather then towards it).
    And in the one case, color. I would like to at some point, refinish my black, .40 PX4, but I would only coat the internals in the slide, rather then the whole slide with Dusk or CPII, BECAUSE of the serrations.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAD View Post
    I did not think the unintended feature enhancement was a big deal. He did a trigger job with the coating and a bunch of other work, all of which was good. I think the trigger job was probably done before the coating. Also note that this was 1998.

    I would unhesitatingly put NP3 on any gun I owned. I have several that need done, eventually.

    The slickness of the slide was never an issue, and I ran that gun in some rainy, muddy classes before making it a groomsmanís gift. It is the best gun Iíve owned.
    Ok, but your comment about your trigger going full auto didn't seem very positive, and rightfully so; I took it that since you removed the finish from your hammer & sear, that you would not recommend it?
    Last edited by Sauer Koch; 06-22-2019 at 05:14 PM.

  5. #15
    Hobbyist JAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sauer Koch View Post
    Ok, but your comment about your trigger going full auto didn't seem very positive, and rightfully so; I took it that since you removed the finish from your trigger parts, that you would not recommend it?
    It was not a big deal. If and when I send another gun in, I will surely have the fire control parts done, because it makes them much easier to clean and makes them work better together in most ways. That sear was just too narrow, post-modification, for that degree of friction.

  6. #16
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    Thanks for the responses. A few negative ones, but a few positive ones...this is all just research, so once I feel I've seen enough, I can make a decision on whether I want to do this.

    They also have Roguard & Poly T-2, but I've heard very little about them, so I'm not sure if they would be any less 'slippery'?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by JAD View Post
    It was not a big deal. If and when I send another gun in, I will surely have the fire control parts done, because it makes them much easier to clean and makes them work better together in most ways. That sear was just too narrow, post-modification, for that degree of friction.
    Thanks for that detailed clarification, much appreciated.

  8. #18
    One of my mentors had a Sig 220 done...before a week at Gunsite. 1200 rounds on the pistol (this was late 1900s) and it was cleaned by a wet paper towel and just wiped off. Call me a Beliver...

    pat

  9. #19
    Anyone have any recommendations for which parts to NP3 in a HK LEM/Match kit for my HK .45 Expert?

  10. #20
    Site Supporter SAWBONES's Avatar
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    The Third Dimension
    I bought a Colt Gunsite CCO 14 years ago, and had every part but the barrel, sights and trigger coated with NP3 at Robar within a month of purchase, and it has always run perfectly. It was my daily CCW for almost 10 years.

    The gripframe is a bit on the "slick" side, but I've never had a problem gripping the slide, and the NP3 coating wears extremely well; no cracking, peeling, chipping or discoloration at all.

    Nowadays I want as much friction on the gripframe as reasonably possible, and in a lighter gun, so the CCO doesn't get carried much, having been displaced by a G26.5, and I have no experience with NP3+, but NP3 is durable, needs little lubrication and cleans up easily.
    "Therefore, since the world has still... Much good, but much less good than ill,
    And while the sun and moon endure, Luck's a chance, but trouble's sure,
    I'd face it as a wise man would, And train for ill and not for good." -- A.E. Housman

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