Taurus 856 question

[tmanwell]

Thinking of getting a Taurus 856 snub nosed, exposed hammer, just cuz. :-)
Question...the Taurus website appears to list all 856 models as +P, but some of the online gun sites seem to list only the 3" Defender as +P.
Lack of +P isn't necessarily a deal killer for me....I already love the fact that it's 6-rounds, but +P would really be the icing on the cake.
Curious if you all have any info on this?

BTW, I'm sure there's a large "don't buy Taurus" contingent out there. However, with what I've read about SW and Ruger lately in terms of quality control, **seems like it's all a bit of a crap shoot. [sad to say]. Guess I could buy a used SW, but they're as expensive as new. For my use... I **think the 856 should do.

Thanks!

T.M.

[Hizzie]

I would defer to the manufacturer website over an online dealer for product information.

The 2” barrel snubs don’t see ideal performance with HP’s due to velocity. Something like Federal Gold Medal Match, Georgia Arms or Lost River’s full wadcutter loads would probably be more appropriate.

[lee n. field]

Thinking of getting a Taurus 856 snub nosed, exposed hammer, just cuz. :-)
Question...the Taurus website appears to list all 856 models as +P, but some of the online gun sites seem to list only the 3" Defender as +P.
Lack of +P isn't necessarily a deal killer for me....I already love the fact that it's 6-rounds, but +P would really be the icing on the cake.
Curious if you all have any info on this?


Thanks!

T.M.

Looking at Taurus' main 856 page, where it shows all the models, all of them are labeled +P.

So, don't worry about it.

Thinking of getting a Taurus 856 snub nosed, exposed hammer, just cuz. :-)

If I had it to do over right now, I'd go for a bobbed hammer Ultralite.

[Dave303]

Picked up my 856 Ultra-Lite this afternoon, and after doing a basic revolver checklist, I’m very pleased with it.
The timing and lockup are good on all six chambers. Fit and finish are fine for the price.
I purchased a Galloway spring kit, but may hold off on installing it, as after 50 or so dry-fires, the trigger is fine as is.

Taurus has definitely upped their game on these.

[tmanwell]

Looking at Taurus' main 856 page, where it shows all the models, all of them are labeled +P.

So, don't worry about it.



If I had it to do over right now, I'd go for a bobbed hammer Ultralite.

So, speaking of the bobbed hammer, that brings up an interesting side question...
I really haven't had that much experience shooting DA-only style. With a bobbed hammer, obviously that's a must. I'll just say I was pretty abysmal the few times I tried. So here's the question, IN GENERAL when it comes to DA only style shooting, is it a case of (a) just gotta get out there, train train train, and it will come, or is it also a case of (b) stock DA action sucks on a lot of guns and it's not gonna get good unless worked on by a pro?
So the practical point of the question is.... if I got a bobbed hammer revolver (Taurus or anything for that matter), should I also factor in the cost of gunsmith work on the trigger?

Thanks!!

Tim

[Dave303]

As a non professional who is just getting back into revolvers, I feel DA revolver shooting is mostly technique and training, not hardware.
Revolvers require some instruction if you you have only used autos before. Lots of people here know their stuff and should be able to give some advice on where to start.

[lee n. field]

So, speaking of the bobbed hammer, that brings up an interesting side question...
I really haven't had that much experience shooting DA-only style. With a bobbed hammer, obviously that's a must. I'll just say I was pretty abysmal the few times I tried. So here's the question, IN GENERAL when it comes to DA only style shooting, is it a case of (a) just gotta get out there, train train train, and it will come,

That. My experience (15 years shooting a Taurus 605, 1.5 years shooting the 856 Defender) is that the Taurus triggers have smoothed up nicely with use. I've never felt the need to mess with replacing springs.

or is it also a case of (b) stock DA action sucks on a lot of guns and it's not gonna get good unless worked on by a pro?
So the practical point of the question is.... if I got a bobbed hammer revolver (Taurus or anything for that matter), should I also factor in the cost of gunsmith work on the trigger?

Nope. Just shoot it.

Hammerless. I've started to try to do some more serious draw and dry fire practice from AIWB. The number one thing that screws that up for me, is the hammer spur catching on clothing.

[Half Moon]

That. My experience (15 years shooting a Taurus 605, 1.5 years shooting the 856 Defender) is that the Taurus triggers have smoothed up nicely with use. I've never felt the need to mess with replacing springs.



Nope. Just shoot it.

Hammerless. I've started to try to do some more serious draw and dry fire practice from AIWB. The number one thing that screws that up for me, is the hammer spur catching on clothing.

With a hammer spur you want to place your thumb over or in the spur when drawing from concealed. It smooths it up literally and figuratively both.

On OP's question, a good DA stroke comes with practice. One thing that may help along the way is experimenting with trigger finger placement. With a DA revolver using the joint crease of your trigger finger will generally give better results than say using your finger pad.

[D-der]

I picked up a Defender several months ago, I've only run about 350rds through it but, it's proven reliable and accurate, given my limited revolver skill's.
I'm a semi auto guy that hadn't shot a revolver in 20+ years until I pulled a SP101 3" out of the safe a few months ago and I've picked up 3 more revolvers since. My defender trigger was real stiff and rough out of the box, I tried a Galloway kit which was quite an improvement in pull weight, also cleaned up / lubed internals while it was apart but after a hundred rounds or so and a bunch of dry fire, the spring took a set and I wound up with misfires, then the same thing when I tried a Wolf kit. All and All as mentioned up thread, they smooth out...a lot, my trigger went from a rough, well off the chart of a 12lb gauge to a nice smooth 11lb or so. The rounds through the Defender plus a shit load of dry fire and probably close to as many through the LCR 38, LCRX 22 and SP have made me realize, I'd been chasing 4-5lb triggers for 30 years but you don't need a real light trigger, but smooth and predictable does wonders. My particular defender shoots 130gr 900+fps ball to shoot the dot and 148gr WC at a 6:00 hold. Something I'd read here and there over the years basically states, if you can shoot a da revolver well, it'll help your semi shooting, in my case damn right.
Just my opinion, shoot and dry fire the snot out of it, the trigger and you are likely to improve considerably.
Also, there's a well of knowledge on this forum that I'm thankful for and drink from regularly, welcome...there's a lot of homework!