I haz a new project...
The slide assembly and barrel are assembled and tested on a G19.3 already. I just need to do the needful on the frame.
Chris
I haz a new project...
The slide assembly and barrel are assembled and tested on a G19.3 already. I just need to do the needful on the frame.
Chris
Good luck Chris.
I f’d mine up and now it’s just sitting around.
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"I'm a tactical operator and Instructor and also retired military."
-read on another forum
For the uninformed, namely me, what is the appeal of the Polymer 80 and similar frames? Is it the "because it is there" or is there a tangible benefit over modifying a factory Glock frame? I can buy like-new stripped factory frames for anywhere from $35 to $50 each. For example, https://www.recoilgunworks.com/facto...d-p-46037.html and https://www.recoilgunworks.com/pack-...d-p-50926.html
I get the idea that machining one's own pistol can be fun as I have done it with 1911-pattern pistol, so the "because it is there" reason is perfectly valid, but I wondering if I am missing a performance advantage. I could see building up one for a competition pistol, but I am hesitant to use one as the basis for a carry pistol (just like I do not carry the 1911-pattern pistol I built). The optics, post-shooting, could make one look like there is a nefarious reason to use a pistol without a factory-generated serial number. I would also hesitate due to reliability concerns as the aftermarket frame introduces a new integration issue.
Those "$35-$50" Glock frames need shipping and transfer, pushing them to the $60-$100 range (or more). Also, if this were purely about price, a used Gen5 would be about the same final cost.
The P80 gripframe is slightly different than the factory Glock frame. I haven't fired a P80 yet, but it feels good in the hand. This was my primary motivation for building one.
Also, I like building stuff, so it scratches that itch as well.
I have no immediate plans on carrying mine. It's mainly a range toy and a test platform for an RMR (eventually). I fitted it with a traditionally rifled barrel so I can shoot lead bullets if I ever get around to handloading 9mm. I may experiment with loads in that area.
Remember, not all guns have to be "srs bizness". Sometimes they're just for the fun of it all.
Chris
Thanks for the reply. Sounds like fun to me.
I've messed with a couple of these, mostly because I got them heavily discounted and wanted to see how difficult it was. There isn't much to it, but I would suggest taping the jig shut along the edges to decrease flex. I did it all on a table top with a hand drill, dremel, and a pair of snips/end-cutting pliers to cut off most of the tabs.
I only used factory Glock internals, with the exception of an aftermarket blem Agency barrel I tried in a 19-size. After 100 rounds, there was some slight gouging where the barrel contacts the locking block/front rail module. I found instances online of it happening to others. Apparently that happens and won't progress. It does not happen on mine with the factory barrel.
The grip angle is different than a Glock (more straight/1911-ish), has a more pronounced beaver tail to cut down on the slide bite, the front strap is cut higher, has those "accelerator cuts", and the mag release cutout is such that I don't need to use my usual extended (34/35) mag release, but stick with the standard length. Some folks pay a bit for stuff like that from custom shops. The grip texture is nice, too.
I have no plans to carry it, but it was a fun project for someone that likes to tinker, and I haven't had any reliability issues after a couple hundred rounds through both a full size and compact size. Glad to answer questions if they come up.
I did mine with some sandpaper, a dremel and a few files. It works well, but I don't know what I would ever really do with it.
I have a gun-shaped object. I forgot when I ordered the frame that I still needed a few small parts, so I'm forced to wait until they arrive from Brownells next week. However, I completed all the milling and drilling operations, installed the rails, and test fit the slide. It moves back and forth smoothly, so I have that much going for me.
I used end-snips to remove the molded rail portions, then an Xacto knife and jewelers files to smooth them out, finally touching the areas up with fine sandpaper.
For the internal portion you have to use the end mill on, I did that with a small milling bit on a Dremel with remote head, then touched it up with a fine stone on the same Dremel. It's the area I'm least proud of, but it seems to work fine.
Now to wait...
Chris