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Thread: Blackhawk barrel length and finish question

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 41magfan View Post
    From a practical (objective) standpoint, the stainless guns make (user performed) sight changes pretty straight forward since the front sight blade is pinned. The blued guns have the sight blade constructed integral with the base, so any changes must involve the entire front sight body - which is usually soldered in place.
    Oh, wow!

    Excellent information.

    Especially since my not so young eyes often need more help.

    I knew asking here was in my best interest.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by M2CattleCo View Post
    I actually have a 4 5/8" 357 and a 5 1/2" 45LC flattop. These Lipsey's flattops (stainless and blued) are built on steel XR3 grip frames, same as the New Vaquero.

    I greatly prefer the 5 1/2" 45. Balances better because of the thinner barrel and I shoot a longer sight radius better. It could be my imagination, but I think the 5 1/2" is less flippy and blasty than a 4 5/8" with full boogie loads. I have a 4 5/8" 45LC New Vaquero to compare.

    I carry a revolver in a pretty high ride holster to get the cylinder mostly above the belt line and the longer barrel guns carry a lot better. Same as a government vs commander 1911 to me.

    All single action revolvers should be blued with wood, bone, or horn grips.
    Excellent information.

    Which holster do you recommend/prefer?

    I would want to get something that would make it easier to slide in and out of a truck/SXS but still be readily accessible. I had actually been thinking about a crossdraw but I think I would prefer a RH hip holster.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    I prefer stainless for a wilderness/hunting revolver, but blued really isn't that hard to take care of, either. A good wipe-down with a Sentry Solutions impregnated cloth applies a good protectant weather barrier to the blueing.

    In terms of aesthetics, I prefer a 4.62" barrel, while on a fixed-sight Vaquero I prefer it in the 5.5" barrel. Both just seem "right" to me.

    Best, Jon
    None of my blued guns are rusty, but I am much more particular about them than I am my stainless guns.

    That is my only fear about getting the blued one. I fear that I will be super particular about it and dread getting a scratch or worry about taking it out when the weather might turn bad.

    I am that way about my beautiful BL-22 and my Dad's old BPS. I shoot them, but I don't "use them" the way I do my stainless guns.

  4. #14
    Site Supporter Hambo's Avatar
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    For carry I prefer 4 5/8". I dislike the look of 5 1/2" barreled SA revolvers so much so that I sold the only one I ever owned. 4 5/8" or 6 1/2"+.

    FWIW there's no difference between .44 mag and heavily loaded .45 Colt in a 4 5/8" barrel.
    "Gunfighting is a thinking man's game. So we might want to bring thinking back into it."-MDFA

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  5. #15
    Site Supporter OlongJohnson's Avatar
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    We don't know where you live and where you tromp in the woods. Super-humid climates are not blued-friendly. Freckles are only a good thing on red heads and some blondes.

    FWIW, I haven't gone down the SA rabbit hole yet, but I do have a stainless GP100 Match Champion and a blued five-inch Lipsey's half-lug GP100.

    "Get both" is a serviceable plan.
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  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlongJohnson View Post
    We don't know where you live and where you tromp in the woods. Super-humid climates are not blued-friendly. Freckles are only a good thing on red heads and some blondes.

    FWIW, I haven't gone down the SA rabbit hole yet, but I do have a stainless GP100 Match Champion and a blued five-inch Lipsey's half-lug GP100.

    "Get both" is a serviceable plan.
    West Tennessee.

    So humid and muggy about half of the year.

    I would love to get both, but I don't have that much play money around.

  7. #17
    Member JonInWA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 41magfan View Post
    From a practical (objective) standpoint, the stainless guns make (user performed) sight changes pretty straight forward since the front sight blade is pinned. The blued guns have the sight blade constructed integral with the base, so any changes must involve the entire front sight body - which is usually soldered in place.
    I never realized that; checking on the images of blued and stainless Blackhawks at Ruger.com verify that you're absolutely correct. Thanks for pointing this out; I learned something new today.

    Best, Jon

  8. #18
    Site Supporter Totem Polar's Avatar
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    Honestly, for Tennessee summer, I’d get the stainless 4 5/8". You can always get it cerakoted or some such ionbond down the road for a unique piece if you grow tired of the in the raw look. JMO.

    Also, look at Barranti leather





    Or Mernickle, just for kicks...

    ”But in the end all of these ideas just manufacture new criminals when the problem isn't a lack of criminals.” -JRB

  9. #19
    Site Supporter 41magfan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    I never realized that; checking on the images of blued and stainless Blackhawks at Ruger.com verify that you're absolutely correct. Thanks for pointing this out; I learned something new today.

    Best, Jon
    I think some of the blued rimfire single-actions still have a (screw) removable front sight (blade made integral to the base), but that's never been the case with the blued centerfire revolvers to my knowledge.
    Last edited by 41magfan; 05-23-2019 at 12:23 PM.
    The path of least resistance will seldom get you where you need to be.

  10. #20
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    Get both

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