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Thread: The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

  1. #911
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elwin View Post
    So thanks to advice in this thread and sources I found by reading it (multiple times), I've successfully detail stripped and cleaned an old high round count Kimber Team Match II that really needed it, and tuned the grip safety to the point where I want it. I now have an issue with the drop safety in relation to the sensitized grip safety, but I'll be remedying that soon, probably tomorrow.

    The one problem I noticed while I had the gun apart was that the plunger tube has just the slightest amount of play. I doubt it would fail on the next range outing, but obviously something needs to be done about it. I've read all the plunger tube discussion from the beginning of the thread. My specific question is, what is the most expedient way to get the thing locked back in place with minimal resources available? I live in an apartment, so disassembly and some basic filing is totally doable. I won't be doing much more involved that that, though.

    I'm guessing stake and loctite? Or is there a different preferred solution for one that's just barely loose? Or am I better off taking a chance on a local gun smith?
    Stake and loctite.

    Since you're a damnable 1911 Heretic - I'd just buy the tool - https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod79068.aspx

  2. #912
    Site Supporter Trooper224's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    Stake and loctite.

    Since you're a damnable 1911 Heretic - I'd just buy the tool - https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod79068.aspx
    Plus 1 on this. I bought this tool years ago from Brownells and it's some of the best money I've ever spent. If you're going to live with the 1911, knowing how to restake (forget the loctite) a plunger tube is a necessity IMHO, along with knowing how to install an extractor, etc.
    We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......

  3. #913
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    My experience with plunger tubes and staking is once a tube is loose, it is time to replace it. The plunger tube can be staked again, but it seems that it will eventually become loose again. I have this tool. It works okay and is reasonably priced. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod79068.aspx

    I would not recommend Loctite or any other thread locking compound as there are no threaded fasteners. Silver soldering is an option but probably not do-it-yourself.

  4. #914
    Site Supporter Trooper224's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farscott View Post
    My experience with plunger tubes and staking is once a tube is loose, it is time to replace it. The plunger tube can be staked again, but it seems that it will eventually become loose again. I have this tool. It works okay and is reasonably priced. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod79068.aspx

    I would not recommend Loctite or any other thread locking compound as there are no threaded fasteners. Silver soldering is an option but probably not do-it-yourself.
    Agreed. However, some companies afix the plunger tube with loctite only, without staking. (looking at you Springfield). In that case, when it comes loose, not if but when, a staking tool is very handy.
    We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......

  5. #915
    The R in F.A.R.T RevolverRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farscott View Post
    My experience with plunger tubes and staking is once a tube is loose, it is time to replace it. The plunger tube can be staked again, but it seems that it will eventually become loose again. I have this tool. It works okay and is reasonably priced. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod79068.aspx

    I would not recommend Loctite or any other thread locking compound as there are no threaded fasteners. Silver soldering is an option but probably not do-it-yourself.
    This is correct. Threadlocking Loctite is inappropriate for a plunger tube.

    However there are shear-type adhesive loctites that are appropriate and used by a number of high end 1911-builders see this post:

    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....l=1#post879280

    -

    Should say I do concur, replace the tube with a new one. This is also a good time to replace the plunger spring and both detents. Cheap insurance overall.

  6. #916
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RevolverRob View Post
    This is correct. Threadlocking Loctite is inappropriate for a plunger tube.

    However there are shear-type adhesive loctites that are appropriate and used by a number of high end 1911-builders see this post:

    https://pistol-forum.com/showthread....l=1#post879280

    -

    Should say I do concur, replace the tube with a new one. This is also a good time to replace the plunger spring and both detents. Cheap insurance overall.
    Not sure about Loctite 609 IF the pistol has the KimPro II finish often found on the Team Match II models. The adhesive needs a clean steel surface, not a painted one.

  7. #917
    Site Supporter Elwin's Avatar
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    Thanks all, that’s mostly what I figured but I wanted to be sure before investing time and money, and appreciate the input. The tool, a Wilson tube, and new spring and detents are in a Brownells cart. Young as I am I hopefully have enough 1911 shooting ahead of me that having the tool makes sense anyway.

  8. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
    What way did you go on this?
    JohnK

    I finally got to call Springer. The Gen 1 MCOP was made in 2005. They sent me a shipping label.... it will gone thru however if there is an issue relating to a non springer part, they will not cover that part. The only thing I see that is non springer is the thumb safety. They also told me night sights are only covered under warranty for 12 years and they have to be completely dead. I returned the ILS MSH back to the frame.

    Boxed up and ready to return to Springfield! Hopefully turnaround is quick.

    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  9. #919
    Wood burnin' Curmudgeon CSW's Avatar
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    I can pee outside.
    Will you have it refinished by Springfield, or will you keep the wear on the finish?

    I'd leave it, replace the Packies with a nice set of wood and carry it with pride.
    "... And miles to go before I sleep".

  10. #920
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    While the official SA line is as was told, I would not be surprised if they offered a very friendly price for new night sights. The restriction on night sights has to deal with broken sights and tritium.

    This Limited Warranty does not cover on 1911-A1 pistols produced after January 1, 2001. The 1911 Tritium Night Sights are covered by the following Trijicon® Warranty: The original owner of the Trijicon® tritium self-luminous iron sight system warranted with this card is entitled to repair or replacement (at Trijicon’s option) if it should fail due to defects in material or workmanship during normal use. This warranty specifically applies to the illumination system.

    The tritum lamps in this product are warranted against breakage for a period of twelve years from the date of the original manufacture date. If repair is necessary, please send the iron sights to Trijicon®, properly packed, including a description of your problem. This warranty does not apply to defects caused by anything which is deemed abnormal, abusive, or improper use including any fault resulting from an accident or improper service. Special Note: Trijicon®

    IRON SIGHTS CONTAIN TRITIUM AND ARE REGULATED BY THE NUCLEAR REGULATORY COMMISSION. THEY MAY NOT BE DISASSEMBLED BY ANYONE OTHER THAN TRIJICON INC., WHICH HOLDS THE NECESSARY LICENSES. Any attemp at disassembly or repair will annul this warranty. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state. Trijicon, Inc. 49385 Shafer Avenue, Wixom, MI., 48393. www.trijicon.com
    If you want the pistol to not be refinished, I would add that to any letter sent with the pistol. I would also not be surprised if the grip screws are replaced. Back in 2014, I sent in a four-inch Defender PDP from 1991 that had a tendency to have the guide rod rotate, locking up the pistol. That was my only issue. SA replaced a ton of parts on the pistol, including the grip screws, the recoil system, and the sights. On a pistol made more than twenty years before.

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