The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

[JAH 3rd]

So lets say one has a 1911, any model/caliber, that runs 100%. It is all sorted out. Does it need extra attention besides the usual clean/lube, gun springs, mag springs and the visual inspection when the pistol is taken down for cleaning? I understand with multiple suppliers of 1911 pistols as well as parts, there can be issues with the parts fitting from the drop-in perspective. Drop-in may not be drop-in at all even if advertised as such. Just wondering on your thoughts in this matter. Thanks!

[JonInWA]

So lets say one has a 1911, any model/caliber, that runs 100%. It is all sorted out. Does it need extra attention besides the usual clean/lube, gun springs, mag springs and the visual inspection when the pistol is taken down for cleaning? I understand with multiple suppliers of 1911 pistols as well as parts, there can be issues with the parts fitting from the drop-in perspective. Drop-in may not be drop-in at all even if advertised as such. Just wondering on your thoughts in this matter. Thanks!

So as long as you adhere to Hilton Yam's maintenance/forecasted parts replacement schedule, I'd say no.

Best, Jon

[JAD]

So lets say one has a 1911, any model/caliber, that runs 100%. It is all sorted out. Does it need extra attention besides the usual clean/lube, gun springs, mag springs and the visual inspection when the pistol is taken down for cleaning? I understand with multiple suppliers of 1911 pistols as well as parts, there can be issues with the parts fitting from the drop-in perspective. Drop-in may not be drop-in at all even if advertised as such. Just wondering on your thoughts in this matter. Thanks!

Not in my pretty decent for a hobbyist experience. Watch the plunger tube for looseness, but it's not a disaster if it happens. Don't expect the extractor to lose tension -- literally never happened to me, though I've seen maladjusted ones on other people's guns -- and just keep it reasonably clean and oiled. Shoot it a lot.

[JonInWA]

I had been using Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 grease for the reciprocating metal parts of my 1911s, but after I detected a bit of slide sluggishness in recoil return with my stainless steel Colt Series 70 during a recent IDPA match, I've switched to TW25B for that lubrication role (despite the sluggishness {which occurred in 50 degree weather, after several stages and been shot-so there doubtlessly was some GSR accumulation}, however there were no operational issues/jams/failures to feed or eject with the Lucas Red "N" Tacky #2 throughout the match).

For my 1911s, with their fairly significant metal-on-metal bearing surfaces, I feel a bit more comfortable in going with a lighter viscosity cream/grease. I like the TW25B for it's longevity, lack of evaporation and lack of bake-off in use, particularly when compared to thinner oil-type lubes.

Best, Jon

[farscott]

So lets say one has a 1911, any model/caliber, that runs 100%. It is all sorted out. Does it need extra attention besides the usual clean/lube, gun springs, mag springs and the visual inspection when the pistol is taken down for cleaning? I understand with multiple suppliers of 1911 pistols as well as parts, there can be issues with the parts fitting from the drop-in perspective. Drop-in may not be drop-in at all even if advertised as such. Just wondering on your thoughts in this matter. Thanks!

In my experience, even with a vetted 1911-pattern pistol, there can be issues as the round count climbs. But they are similar in nature to other pistol designs. I have broken extractor hooks, lost a magazine catch, cracked a firing pin stop, broken and loosened ejectors, stripped grip bushings, bent magazine wells, damaged rear sights, loosened a plunger tube, and launched a front sight. I have cracked both steel and aluminum frames. That being said, I have one Series '70 Colt from 1976 on its second barrel and slide, third set of sights, and third refinishing, but the original frame is fine. That pistol has more than 75,000 rounds through it and has been honorably retired. It more than paid for itself.

I detail strip a serious-usage 1911-pattern pistol once or twice per year, looking for issues. Getting ahead of any issues is key with any pistol. Most of those parts I replaced required fitting, tools, and/or tuning. Having those tools is a plus. I suggest on any serious 1911 that a tenon front sight not be used. A dovetail front sight is much more secure.

Two parts I have never replaced are the mainspring and the sear spring. On the other hand, I replace 1911 magazine guts and bodies regularly. I tend to favor Colt Metalform magazine bodies and Tripp Super 7 guts.

The adage about being comfortable working on a 1911-pattern pistol and needing spares if you carry one is sound advice. There are some parts I prefer a pro to fit on a serious pistol, namely barrels and slides, due to the complexity of the proper fit. I have fit barrels, and it takes me a lot longer do it than a pro with the right tools and lots of practice. That is one real advantage of modern designs. Swapping barrels, slides, and frames with a Glock is child's play. With a modern 1911, it is a lot of effort and it is easy to destroy a part with too much metal removal.

[awp_101]

Speaking of sluggishness, what else can cause it besides GSR and lubrication?

The full rail TRP felt very sluggish on it’s only range trip so far. I didn’t tear it down for a cleaning after purchase but I hope to this weekend. I wonder if the sluggishness contributed to my not feeling comfortable with it.

[JAH 3rd]

Thanks for all responses! I know QC isn't what it used to be based on reported observations of issues with new firearms. If a 1911 leaves the factory with no extractor tension, I guess it is pretty hard to blame the pistol for that. Once again, thanks for the insight based on experience.

[Greg]

Speaking of sluggishness, what else can cause it besides GSR and lubrication?

The full rail TRP felt very sluggish on it’s only range trip so far. I didn’t tear it down for a cleaning after purchase but I hope to this weekend. I wonder if the sluggishness contributed to my not feeling comfortable with it.

A sprayed on finish can, depends how well it was applied. Rounds downrange should help with wearing down the contact spots.

[farscott]

Speaking of sluggishness, what else can cause it besides GSR and lubrication?

The full rail TRP felt very sluggish on it’s only range trip so far. I didn’t tear it down for a cleaning after purchase but I hope to this weekend. I wonder if the sluggishness contributed to my not feeling comfortable with it.

A few things come to mind.

1) The disconnector rail and the cut for the disconnect. I have seen burrs there cause the slide to reciprocate sluggishly or even hang.
2) Take a look at the recoil spring. The open end of the spring goes toward the muzzle. While on this topic, a weak recoil spring can make the gun seem to cycle slowly.
3) The firing pin stop bottom radius can slow the slide. The sharper the radius, the less leverage the slide has to cock the hammer.

A well-lubed 1911-pattern pistol not in 9x19 should never seem sluggish. 9x19 pistols often do as the recoil impulse is much less than that of the 230-grain .45 ACP round the pistol was designed to cycle.

[MDFA]

With RDS milling really becoming a thing now, I thought this would be a better place to ask than the 1911 picture thread.

If you mount an RDS, do you have to go to different weight springs? I realize it’s generally not necessary with other pistols but that doesn’t mean that’s true for 1911s.

I kept the stock double recoil springs and it works fine with that. I did test an 18lb. Commander spring with +P+ loads which worked well.

Hope this helps.