I think it’s interesting that I have many more rounds through aluminum guns and have not seen this issue there. You know, I bet there’s some science there.
I think it’s interesting that I have many more rounds through aluminum guns and have not seen this issue there. You know, I bet there’s some science there.
Ignore Alien Orders
Section 1.
-Springs: Most .45 1911's work well enough with a 16lb recoil spring. I tend to prefer the 17lb flatwire recoil spring from Wilson Combat. Change firing pin springs when you do recoil springs. Hammer springs run the gamut, but I'd run a heavier version. It won't affect trigger pull much and may actually dampen the recoil impulse.
-Mags: 7 round mags are a good way to hedge your bets against a weak mag spring in a standard length mag tube, but you can get a reliable 8 round mag with an extended tube and if you're carrying a gun with a magwell, it's ideal. I like Brownells, Wilson ETM's, and CMC powermags. Never tried Tripp, because they're expensive and ETM's are on sale frequently.
-If your gun has no magwell, a 7 round, flush fitting magazine would be ideal for concealment. I like Tripp Super 7 kits in CMC Shooting Star magazine bodies
-Hybrid vs Wadcutter feed lips: Doesn't matter as long as the mag springs are decent.
-Small Parts: The real one to watch for is the plunger tube. If I was buying a new steel framed 1911 today, it'd be a Ruger because of the integral plunger tube. If it's staked and glued you'll be fine. Also keep an eye on the grip screw bushings and for GOD's sake, use flat headed grip screws because torx headed grip screws are a logistical clusterfuck. Experiment with grips. Just because ultra thin grips are available doesn't mean they'll translate to better control over the gun. I've been finding that larger grips (Pachmayr Wraparounds are what I like) give a better sense of control but YMMV
-Flat Bottom Firing Pin Stops: I have no opinions one way or another for standard pressure ammo. If you're running really hot loads like .45 super, it might help alongside a heavy recoil spring.
-Barrels: Most factory barrels should be alright, but I'd suggest pressing down on the barrel when in battery to see if it moves at all. If so, the barrel is likely standing on the link and this will negatively affect accuracy. Posted below is my Colt Commander's factory barrel lugs. They should be flush with the link for maximum accuracy. The gun works with said barrel, but would not group any better than a 3rd gen Glock, so I fitted a different barrel and it is now much more accurate.
Also, I dislike ramped barrels for a .45
Section 2
-Mags: I have no 9mm magazine preference, running Brownells (Metalforms), Colt factory mags, Kimber mags, and Wilson ETM magazines. 9 and 10 round mags here being an analogue for 7 and 8 round mags as above.
-Springs: Commanders from Colt (or at least mine) can be considerably over-sprung. A 12 pound spring is good for commander frame 9mm guns.
-Barrels: You can use ramped or unramped barrels in 9mm. Most companies now use ramped barrels.
All Sections
-Firing Pin Safeties: Series 80 is better than Swartz if you decide you want a firing pin block. DO NOT get into the habit of dropping the slide on an empty chamber.
-Sights: Pick a winner.
-Thumb Safeties: I like wider thumb safeties for positive disengagement
-Beavertails: I usually like a large beavertail with a memory bump, but the main thing to watch for is whether or not the BTGS safety arm interferes with the trigger or if it doesn't disengage early enough you may have issues if you take a very high grip on your pistol.
Overall, at the end of the day, you have to be OK with the gun you're carrying, but most of these things aren't problematic in a modern gun. Many modern 1911's will be trouble free, and if yours has problems, I strongly suggest checking out a forum with specialization in 1911's and hitting the search function.
Not gonna lie, I pretty much learned to build my first 1911 compliments of google.
Last edited by 45dotACP; 05-12-2019 at 12:07 AM.
For clarity, CMC PowerMags, while slightly longer than a flush mag, are really the older generation of 8 rounders and not as long as the newer generation of 8 round extended tube mags like the Wilson ETM or Tripp Cobra Mags (I don't know about the Brownell's 8 rounders). If you want an extended tube CMC 8 rounder, the new RPM mag has a longer tube.Originally Posted by 45dotACP
CMC RPM https://www.cmcproducts.com/8-Round_c_80.html
You may have been simply pointing out you've had good experience with the PowerMags, and not that they are extended length, but I'm just clarifying for those that may be wondering.
Pretty sure my lowly Rugers are a casting and are integral.
That sure would seem like a simple extra step for one that came loose.
You're right, that was my mistake. I've had good luck with the Railed power mags and the original powermags.
The originals are about the same overall length as a Wilson 47D, and despite having a longer service life in my experience (typically due to the smaller follower design which keeps less pressure on the spring) they are still not extended length tubes.
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On Plunger Tubes
I like to run Pachmyer grips but they have ZERO plunger tube support.
Did a company years ago make a thin steel plate to be placed under the left grip that covers/supports the plunger tube.
I did a Google search and netted nothing.
If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!
I think Pachmyer had a rubber grip that had steel plates, on both sides, but I think that was a safety thing in the event of case blowouts, and not a plunger tube support.
Honestly, I like Pachmayr wrap-around grips. I don't stress out too much about plunger tube support or lack thereof. After about 5000 rounds I'll detail strip my gun and check plunger tubes, grip screw bushings, and ejectors.
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You’re thinking of hand text panels from Russ Carniak...his daughter is a excellent 1911 smith and runs the company
http://carniakcustom.com/hand-tect-panels/
The more i think about it
I recall two versions....
Pachmyer style but I dont recall if that is a cover or actual plunger tube
I also recall one that required drilling and tapping. I was thinking Brazos 1911s but did not see them on his website.
Maybe they were more thumb guards than they were plunger tubes or PT supports.
https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=581537
I have ran this piece hard and its mainly parked for now because of my desk driving assignment. Its the factory installed plunger tube and if 12K + down the tube would probably mean at least that in thumb safety manipulations with dry drills. Still tight. I do catch some when doing inspections.
My COACP came loose in the 90s, and TJ in Sugarland TX glued it and still going strong.
I dropped my MCOP and it dumped the thumb safety on impact. It was still the duty holster. My gun was unloaded but it landed hard on the grip safety (pavement). I did not find the plunger tube detents and spring.
If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!
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