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Thread: The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

  1. #2531
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    May 2022
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    Griffin GA
    Forgive the "Thread Drift", but I'm diggin' the Patridge Sight & Bill Davis Grips on the 686...Looks like a Dash Three or earlier from here...

  2. #2532
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    Mar 2016
    Location
    South Texas
    Quote Originally Posted by mikey357 View Post
    Forgive the "Thread Drift", but I'm diggin' the Patridge Sight & Bill Davis Grips on the 686...Looks like a Dash Three or earlier from here...
    Good Eye, that's a tired 686 no dash M Stamped from the dept I work for.

    It was given to the Police Academy in 1993 ish when we switched from 686 to G21.

    When I took over firearms at the Police Academy (2009), the inventory was a smorgasbord of firearms. The director had me trade everything in and purchase Glocks.

    I bought this revolver to make it a competition shooter. I sent it to Bob Jones, and he tuned it and put a tall front sight for 50 yard PPC.

    While this revolver has many rounds down range and shows a lot of wear, it still shoots great.

    The Bill Davis grips are a little thin for my hand, but I like the extra length at the bottom. I add a little more rubber (cut up bike inner tube) to give it more OD.

    Here is my assigned 686 when I started in 1989. We were allowed to purchase our 686s when we were issued the G21. I paid $129 for it in 1993.

    The finish was Flitz and on my days off in front of the TV.

    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  3. #2533
    If not already linked in 2500+ posts

    https://www.americanrifleman.org/con...r-reliability/

    Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

  4. #2534
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    South Texas
    POPS and Federal 185 WC was a fail.

    POPS has a KART barrel and did not like the short WCs.

    POPS has worked well with the longer and exposed bullet shoulder of LSWC 185s and 200s.

    It was pushing the slug in and prying the case mouth back. This one cracked the casing as I tried to tap rack it in the chamber.

    I hope I did not buy a bad batch from someone. I have had it stored in a box for yearsss.

    I proally fired about 30 rounds and had about 6 rounds that angled upward in the chamber. I was not able to recover all the brass but this was the only one cracked and a few had case mount denting.

    of the rounds that fired, it was accurate and soft shooting.



    I was told this morning by some old time shooters that I would need to modify my mags to make the SWCs work. I am like... NOPE!

    Maybe this will work better for someone with a revolver and moon clips.

    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  5. #2535
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    Mar 2016
    Location
    South Texas
    Ever since I got my MCOP Red Dotted.... I have been "hammering" it. I have been paying close attention to the paint pen witness marks on the RDS screws. If I had to guess, I am close to 1000 rounds fired since I got it.

    Today was the opener match for us old guys where you shoot for points on B27. The focus is on the fundamentals.

    It was always duty style revolver and duty style semi auto. This year they added RDS.

    It was very cloudy (heavy overcast) and I had trouble focusing on trying to be accurate by putting the dot in the X ring because I could not see any of the white rings at 15 and 25 yards.

    I shot 230 hard ball because thats all I had.

    Once the last stage was over, much to my amazement I had shot a 497/500. The old timers there said I needed to make a sight adjustment to move my dot to the left. I dont agree. I felt like I was guessing where center was at the further distances. 12 shots were from 15 yards and 18 shots were from 25 yards.

    that is 50 rounds.





    Look at my RDS screws from when I first marked them when I got it back from Schauland Performance to today.

    Freshly mounted and marked with a paint pen.


    today while cleaning. counter clockwise
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  6. #2536
    Site Supporter Elwin's Avatar
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    Apr 2020
    Location
    Midwest
    Getting screws to stay put when shooting full power .45 can be a bitch if my limited experience so far is at all indicative. I needed to use the longest screws possible and lots of loctite with proper cleaning and prep before application. On one gun I still ended up resorting to red loctite.

  7. #2537
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    Mar 2016
    Location
    South Texas
    Quote Originally Posted by Elwin View Post
    Getting screws to stay put when shooting full power .45 can be a bitch if my limited experience so far is at all indicative. I needed to use the longest screws possible and lots of loctite with proper cleaning and prep before application. On one gun I still ended up resorting to red loctite.
    thanks for the info

    My optic was about to come off in May... so I can send the slide off for a taller front sight.

    My past experiences with red loctite and tiny threads will keep me using blue.
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  8. #2538
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Louisiana
    For a moment, yeah, I really thought it would be easy as having a 5” .45 rebuilt by a name smith and living my best life.

    I had a put a few mags through the gun, and then have mostly just done dry fire and manipulations- all good, very happy. I was shooting with a buddy when the slide started hanging up short of being in full battery, I was able to “tap” it into battery, but shortly after it got jammed up pretty hard.

    I was at least smart enough to get it hard-stuck in a fully unloaded condition. At that point, I was suspecting either the disconnector or the link. I then got the bright idea to dissemble the gun by pulling the slide stop and getting the slide off the frame. Well, the slide stop came out but now the gun was completely frozen.

    My local smith got the slide forward and dissembled it in the “traditional” bushing-first removal process. He told me it was the link, and sure enough, there is a bright shiny spot on the link.

    I took pictures of the link, the slide stop, and the frame interior. I don’t know what any of these markings/shiny spots actually mean. I’ve read posts of experienced people looking at the parts and realizing stuff- so any-any discussion would be awesome.

    I really, really want to trust this gun. I’ve had 5” bushing factory-fit guns that I trusted. I’ve never had a custom, before this one, that wasn’t built as a dedicated rimfire. This gun is remarkably tight, and I’m completely cool with that.

    My goal is to understand what happened, what my role was in causing it to happen, and what appropriate measures I have to take to prevent re-occurrence.

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    Per the PF Code of Conduct, I have a commercial interest in the StreakTM product as sold by Ammo, Inc.

  9. #2539
    Site Supporter Elwin's Avatar
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    Apr 2020
    Location
    Midwest
    Quote Originally Posted by SW CQB 45 View Post
    thanks for the info

    My optic was about to come off in May... so I can send the slide off for a taller front sight.

    My past experiences with red loctite and tiny threads will keep me using blue.
    I may come to regret it but A) blue wasn’t cutting it and I was completely done playing around and B) I have a soldering iron, it’ll be fine???

  10. #2540
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    South Texas
    I had to re think for the rest of the season since POPS and the ammo was a fail.

    I did not reload over the cooler months thinking the 185 SWCs would work.

    So, I dug this Nina out. I must be slipping. I shot it and never cleaned it. Been sleeping dirty. It's been like this for years.

    I can use Speer 147 TMJ with decent accuracy using this piece.

    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

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