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Thread: The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

  1. #1581
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    Quote Originally Posted by SwampDweller View Post
    I haven't for sure decided on a budget, but I'm thinking it's around the Dan Wesson Valor area. In fact, it sounds like the DW might be the best bang for the buck in a 1911 of pretty good quality that has a decent chance of running 100% out of the box.

    Combat accurate: More or less as accurate as a Glock or other common duty pistols.
    My .02 cents on Dan Wesson's. I think they are probably pretty good guns. Before you buy, do some research on Dan Wesson "stainless galling" and "Duty Treat finish" issues.

    Do I think either are real issues, well, maybe, but I thought the gun world had worked out the galling issues with stainless steel guns about 35 years ago. Until this stuff started showing up in the Dan Wesson forums a few years back, I don't recall having seen issues with galling on stainless steel guns since the mid-1980's. Either Dan Wesson didn't get the memo on how to avoid it or something else is going on. I know folks will say "tight fit" and everything, but Ed Brown makes a whole bunch of stainless 1911's and I'm pretty sure they are fit tighter than Dan Wesson's and there aren't an galling reports with Ed Brown's guns.

    I'm convinced the real issue is it seems as if it is Glock owners are the one's jumping into the Dan Wesson pool more than anybody else. Many of these folks are very knowledgeable gun owners, but know next to nothing about 1911's. They are also used to spending $500 on a pistol and not $1,500 on a pistol, so there is a lot of "for $1,500 I expect a gun to ...".

    "Galling issues" = "6 drops of lube". If you're going to lube your 1911 like a Glock, you're probably going to have problems.

    "Duty Treat finish issues" = if you're going to spray your gun down with brake cleaner, you're going to make your pretty Duty Treat finish less pretty.

  2. #1582
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    Quote Originally Posted by JTQ View Post
    My .02 cents on Dan Wesson's. I think they are probably pretty good guns. Before you buy, do some research on Dan Wesson "stainless galling" and "Duty Treat finish" issues.

    Do I think either are real issues, well, maybe, but I thought the gun world had worked out the galling issues with stainless steel guns about 35 years ago. Until this stuff started showing up in the Dan Wesson forums a few years back, I don't recall having seen issues with galling on stainless steel guns since the mid-1980's. Either Dan Wesson didn't get the memo on how to avoid it or something else is going on. I know folks will say "tight fit" and everything, but Ed Brown makes a whole bunch of stainless 1911's and I'm pretty sure they are fit tighter than Dan Wesson's and there aren't an galling reports with Ed Brown's guns.

    I'm convinced the real issue is it seems as if it is Glock owners are the one's jumping into the Dan Wesson pool more than anybody else. Many of these folks are very knowledgeable gun owners, but know next to nothing about 1911's. They are also used to spending $500 on a pistol and not $1,500 on a pistol, so there is a lot of "for $1,500 I expect a gun to ...".

    "Galling issues" = "6 drops of lube". If you're going to lube your 1911 like a Glock, you're probably going to have problems.

    "Duty Treat finish issues" = if you're going to spray your gun down with brake cleaner, you're going to make your pretty Duty Treat finish less pretty.

    Some yearsssss ago, A seized up stainless Springer TRP was brought to me. The owner said he oiled it and went shooting. I could not break it free without hurting it with my limited tools.

    I emailed Springer and they said the owner was not using enough lube on the slide rails, but they would look at it under warranty.

    It was sent in and came be working. The owner locked it up again. I emailed again for the owner and sent it back in.

    This time, before it was returned, I got a call from Dave Williams at SACS saying they will not repair this firearm again if the owner locks it up. He is not lubing it correctly.

    When it was returned, I explained again how to lube it, however the owner sold it a short time later.
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  3. #1583
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    When I worked at a range I saw a ton of 1911s stop working. 90% worked great after I lubed them. Same at matches. I don't see 1911s shot much up here but the guys who I do see get stoppages are shooting a gun that would pass a white glove inspection.

    I'm not even talking spraying it down with a spray bottle.

    I typically grease my loaded and I shoot every week. Twice a week once a month due to a match. I'll clean the gun every other month. Before matches I rack the slide and put a drop of oil on each rail, the disconnectors, the barrel and the barrel hood.

    That's 1k rounds between cleaning and 500 between 5 drops of oil. With a lot of carrying every week.

    My lw champion gets carried more but cleaned less. I think the grease was applied 4-5 months ago. I'll probably shoot it next week.

  4. #1584
    Site Supporter Elwin's Avatar
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    My understanding is that contrary to fudd lore, you can’t over lubricate one. Running the action will kick out whatever it doesn’t need to be wiped off before moving on with your day.

    I lubed mine generously with Hoppes No. 9 because I had a bunch of it. Recently switched to Slip EWL just to have something that sticks around better. Same results just oiling less often now.

  5. #1585
    I'm on my off-season 1911 gig. A used 1911 (trade-in) that has been reliable through 4000 rounds has started to go, with a rabid frequency, to early slide lock after a magwell change. A leaning has occurred that for 1911s correct bumper pads were important (thanks, Glock and CZ, for spoiling me). Correct bumper pads were installed. Surprise:early slide locks didn't go away. Did become less frequent but didn't go away completely. Returning back to the initial configuration of magwell/bumper pads got rid of early slidelocks. A mechanically unsound gun was being kept at a spurious 100% reliability, over 4K round count, by a chance combination of magwell and bumper pads. My conclusion on the art and science of keeping my 1911 running: if it is not set from beginning by someone I trust, I ain't interested in that science and I will leave that gun to the art of making noise on USPSA range.
    Doesn't read posts longer than two paragraphs.

  6. #1586
    The Nostomaniac 03RN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elwin View Post
    My understanding is that contrary to fudd lore, you can’t over lubricate one. Running the action will kick out whatever it doesn’t need to be wiped off before moving on with your day.

    I lubed mine generously with Hoppes No. 9 because I had a bunch of it. Recently switched to Slip EWL just to have something that sticks around better. Same results just oiling less often now.
    Nope I don't think you can. I just limit my lubing or else I get stains in my underwear/undershirts.

  7. #1587
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    Mar 2016
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    If yall remember this dude









    replacement on the left





    This is a dept gun, 2005 Model MCOP that was assigned to me. I parked my personal 2008 MCOP to be replaced by its older brother.

    I was shooting it heavy with 230 ball (I don't recall round count) but had two similar malfunctions which I original thought it was my thumb slowing the slide down, but I "S" bent the extractor.

    The majority of this brass is from 2005.



    Well, my initial thoughts were wrong. It was the extractor (factory??? hell I don't know. It was sent back to Springer for an overall check)

    Based on the deep gouge in the brass, this extractor was likely dropped in by the factory (no fitting). It was destined to fail.

    I obtained a WC BP Extractor and FP Stop, and I could not fit it without it hitting brass. I did a lot of reading, viewing videos and reference materials. I was told by a smith via an image that my extractor was too long.







    I was told to widen the firing pin stop notch, solder a spacer to move the extractor back in the slide. That is way beyond my abilities with what tools I have.

    So, either the brand-new WC extractor was out of spec, or the slide is.

    I tried to order an EGW extractor (dept regs) through an approved vendor and it was out of stock.

    I said, WTH and kept reducing areas on the hook to have clearance on the brass. I got it there but have not made the time to put some rounds through it.

    Next month is academy firearms, so I hope to put 500-600 230 grain slugs through it. I plan to heavy oil it and just keep shooting it. See what happens.

    If I have an extractor failure, I finally got the EGW extractor and FP Stop, and it will be the cooler months to fit (garage).


    Perfect example of 1911 and everything is not drop in.
    Last edited by SW CQB 45; 10-15-2022 at 11:06 PM.
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  8. #1588
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    NW Florida
    Quote Originally Posted by SW CQB 45 View Post
    This time, before it was returned, I got a call from Dave Williams at SACS saying they will not repair this firearm again if the owner locks it up. He is not lubing it correctly.
    I don't know if I've already posted this in this long thread (it may be here somewhere already), but elsewhere the WilsonCombatRep posted "50% of their returns for service are fixed by properly lubing the gun".

  9. #1589
    Site Supporter HeavyDuty's Avatar
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    Not very bright but does lack ambition
    Did we recap best practices for 1911 lubrication in a single post in this thread? I know what I’ve been doing, but am curious how it compares.
    Ken

    BBI: ...”you better not forget the safe word because shit's about to get weird”...
    revchuck38: ...”mo' ammo is mo' betta' unless you're swimming or on fire.”

  10. #1590
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    Mar 2016
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    South Texas
    It makes me wonder if those with issues, oiled their gun a week or longer before heading to the range.

    oil creeps away and a couple of hot cycles and you are dry.

    Years ago, Remington told us RemOil was designed for slow moving pump shotguns and bolt action rifles.

    Yet I see the use of RemOil on a lot of pistols and fails on ARs where it will cook off.

    I saw an old chief at a 2008 Patrol Rifle school in Broken Arrow, OK spray RemOil on a .308 AR and destroyed the gas rings in half a day. The same gun locked the trigger up and they brought me the gun. I had to beat the trigger pin out only to find out the ammo they purchased was spitting primers into the action. There must have been 20+ primers wedged underneath the trigger group.

    Oil your 1911 then shoot or if some time passed, then oil it again right before your shoot.

    I have oiled my 1911s before without taking them apart. some years ago, I saw a video or read it in a magazine.

    Just have to know the stress points.

    to me, if stainless galls the slide/frame rails.... that is a very important area.

    barrel locking lugs to name a few.

    Anything high wear metal to metal gets oil.

    that's where knowing the pistol, how it works are key to functionality.
    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

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