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Thread: The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

  1. #1411
    Quote Originally Posted by farscott View Post
    For any 1911, I like to keep an old credit card handy to avoid scratching the frame when inserting the slide stop. Some slide stops are not well fit, making depressing the detent harder than it should be.
    That's a good tip. I'll ask my wife if I can have a credit card.

    Just about every GI 1911 I've ever seen has an arc scratched into the frame where the catch on the slide stop has been drug. Almost like there should be a trough milled at that location in the frame.
    Adding nothing to the conversation since 2015....

  2. #1412
    Bug swattin' Curmudgeon. CSW's Avatar
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    https://www.10-8performance.com/armorer-tool/

    This tool is made of polymer and is very useful with the 1911.
    "... And miles to go before I sleep".

  3. #1413
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    Jan 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ View Post
    Second question, out of the many videos online of how to perform a basic field strip and clean of a 1911, are there any that stand out as to being useful for someone with basic cleaning supplies to use? I'm pretty comfortable taking my Glock's apart and putting them back together. I have basic basic stuff with me; Slip 2000, patches, a Glock tool. Is there anything else I need to have with me to do a cleaning on the gun before I return it to the owner (assuming they are ok with me cleaning it, of course.)
    I agree with asking the owner if they want to do this with you the first time. It will show you are ready and willing to do the cleaning while allowing the owner to show you the procedure.

    But if you want to do it yourself, advice will be easier to give you if you can answer a couple questions. Such as, does the gun have a standard GI-style recoil spring guide rod and plug or does it have a full-length guide rod? If full length, is it one piece or two? Is it a higher end gun with a really tight fitment of the bushing and barrel to the slide?

    If it's a more standard/basic gun, Hickok45's video on disassembly/reassembly is decent.

    If it's a higher end gun Rob Schauland of Alchemy Custom Weaponry has some good instructional videos.

    If the gun has a full-length guide rod, you might want to seek out videos that address that specifically.

    Or just have someone teach you in person, which is probably easiest assuming the person knows the right way to do it.

  4. #1414
    Gray Hobbyist Wondering Beard's Avatar
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    " La rose est sans pourquoi, elle fleurit parce qu’elle fleurit ; Elle n’a souci d’elle-même, ne demande pas si on la voit. » Angelus Silesius
    "There are problems in this universe for which there are no answers." Paul Muad'dib

  5. #1415
    Those little plastic flashings that you sometimes find in milk jug handle openings are perfect for protecting the frame from slide stop insertion marks.

  6. #1416
    Member
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    Mar 2016
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    South Texas
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Lehr View Post
    The extractor 'nose' shouldn't be touching the case web (you knew that).

    If you have calipers measure from the back of the extractor to the flat to the rear of the hook. Then measure from the back side of the extractor to the top of the hook. Subtract the two numbers and you have the hook height. It needs to be .038 to keep the extractor hook from hitting the case rebate (narrow above rim and below case web).

    Next measure the distance from breech face to hook, it needs to be .080. Adjust the hook as needed if too short. If it is too long you need to get a new extractor - how much over .080 will work? IDK.

    With all this done, slide a case under the extractor and see if the nose of the extractor is hitting the case web. Note where it is hitting and dress that area of the extractor nose. Recheck and repeat until you can see just the smallest sliver of light between the nose and the case web, you'll need bright light to do this. .001 is great, point .005 is too much - in other words, just a sliver.

    Essentially, the flat behind the nose should be touching the case rim, the hook shouldn't be touching the rebate, and the nose shouldn't be touching the web.
    Hook height = .035"
    Distance breech face to hook = my calipers wont get it to measure. I tried to make a device to measure out of a coat hanger. I could not get it square but best guess is .080"-

    I believe this to be from my last outing.... still heavy contact or a lot of brass wash.

    I had not shot it since then, so I need to go shoot it again and get another base and go from there. Alot of my numbers were from Kuhnhausen. When the EGW arrives (waiting patiently), I am prepared for a lot of fitting.

    Once I get where I like it, min a couple of hundred trouble free rounds before it returns to service.

    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  7. #1417
    double tapped the post
    Last edited by DDTSGM; 06-03-2022 at 05:38 PM.
    Adding nothing to the conversation since 2015....

  8. #1418
    Quote Originally Posted by awp_101 View Post
    Have the MecGar 9mm mags been discussed yet? Anyone have feedback on them?

    I've also heard MecGars are good to go.

    I just got done building a 9mm at a class. Used their mags to function test but didn't come home with any. I went to order MecGars and couldn't find them in stock with a brief search. A link to Brownell's popped up when I was searching. They make 9mm mags. I ordered three.

    Took the pistol out today and shot it with an assortment of rounds 115gr FMJ, 147gr FMJ, 124gr FMJ, 124gr JHP, and 124gr HST's (carry round). All in all I shot about 350 of the assorted training/practice rounds and 27 of the HST's.

    I didn't want to shoot a bunch of the HST's so I loaded each mag with 7 124 JHP's with 3 HST's on top. Repeated three times.

    Had no stoppages and miracle of miracles, I must have tuned the extractor correctly (as instructed) because the brass wasn't scattered all over and didn't have makings on the rebate or case web.

    I am going to order 6 more Brownells mags and call it good for now. $25.99 each and a three pack for $78.49 which is actually more than three single mags ($77.97)

    https://www.brownells.com/magazines/...prod84195.aspx

    ETA: I ordered six single mags and they charged me $24.99 for them.
    Adding nothing to the conversation since 2015....

  9. #1419
    Member
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    Mar 2016
    Location
    South Texas
    I did a detail clean of my personal MCOP (which is my current duty piece).

    Upon inspection, my recent install of a new piece of F/O rod has already broken loose.

    The duty holster ALS fixture also contacts the front sight upon quick draws and it might have snapped off my F/O dome.

    I am frustrated with the install of these rods, due to poor eye sight with small up close fixes and big hands.

    If you notice the end sticking out the front, originally was not that long when I installed, however it must had some extra slack that I thought I had taken up or pushed through the sight body.

    A candle or bic lighter is not going to work for me either as sometimes I over heat and crystalize the rod which in turn does not help the light gathering capabilities.

    I have seen youtube installs, but anyone got a super simple method they care to share. I likely need a better heat source.

    thanks





    If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!

  10. #1420
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    Jan 2012
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    Georgia
    Quote Originally Posted by SW CQB 45 View Post
    A candle or bic lighter is not going to work for me either as sometimes I over heat and crystalize the rod which in turn does not help the light gathering capabilities.

    I have seen youtube installs, but anyone got a super simple method they care to share. I likely need a better heat source.
    Man, I've always just moved a lighter flame slowly but steadily toward the end of the rod until it melts and it has always worked. I'm not sure there is an easier method than that, but perhaps someone here can help.

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