The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

[awp_101]

Have the MecGar 9mm mags been discussed yet? Anyone have feedback on them?

[45dotACP]

Have the MecGar 9mm mags been discussed yet? Anyone have feedback on them?

I've got one. It works pretty well but I haven't put a ton of rounds through it.

Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk

[DDTSGM]

my issued 2005 MCOP had a .196" factory slide stop pin.

I purchased a hardly used .200" EGW slide stop.

It dropped in (except I had to fit the tombstone for proper engagement on the slide stop notch). I have not shot it enough to notice any difference.

I have been having extractor fit issues where I have brass contact.

Many say the WCBP extractor I put on is too long. Something out of spec or tolerance stacking.

I have not returned it to duty use. I ordered an EGW extractor (which are shorter) through an approved vendor, but it's been back ordered for a while.

I was supposed to put some serious rounds through it last week, but work got in the way. HA!

The extractor 'nose' shouldn't be touching the case web (you knew that).

If you have calipers measure from the back of the extractor to the flat to the rear of the hook. Then measure from the back side of the extractor to the top of the hook. Subtract the two numbers and you have the hook height. It needs to be .038 to keep the extractor hook from hitting the case rebate (narrow above rim and below case web).

Next measure the distance from breech face to hook, it needs to be .080. Adjust the hook as needed if too short. If it is too long you need to get a new extractor - how much over .080 will work? IDK.

With all this done, slide a case under the extractor and see if the nose of the extractor is hitting the case web. Note where it is hitting and dress that area of the extractor nose. Recheck and repeat until you can see just the smallest sliver of light between the nose and the case web, you'll need bright light to do this. .001 is great, point .005 is too much - in other words, just a sliver.

Essentially, the flat behind the nose should be touching the case rim, the hook shouldn't be touching the rebate, and the nose shouldn't be touching the web.

(Note: I just attended what turned into a 10 day class with Bob Marvel. We fitted our EGW extractors by these notes and case inspection after test firing revealed flawless cases - no marks.)

Hope this 'heps.'

A crappy picture handcrafted beauty:

[rd62]

I've got one. It works pretty well but I haven't put a ton of rounds through it.

Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk

Same here

[SW CQB 45]

The extractor 'nose' shouldn't be touching the case web (you knew that).

If you have calipers measure from the back of the extractor to the flat to the rear of the hook. Then measure from the back side of the extractor to the top of the hook. Subtract the two numbers and you have the hook height. It needs to be .038 to keep the extractor hook from hitting the case rebate (narrow above rim and below case web).

Next measure the distance from breech face to hook, it needs to be .080. Adjust the hook as needed if too short. If it is too long you need to get a new extractor - how much over .080 will work? IDK.

With all this done, slide a case under the extractor and see if the nose of the extractor is hitting the case web. Note where it is hitting and dress that area of the extractor nose. Recheck and repeat until you can see just the smallest sliver of light between the nose and the case web, you'll need bright light to do this. .001 is great, point .005 is too much - in other words, just a sliver.

Essentially, the flat behind the nose should be touching the case rim, the hook shouldn't be touching the rebate, and the nose shouldn't be touching the web.

(Note: I just attended what turned into a 10 day class with Bob Marvel. We fitted our EGW extractors by these notes and case inspection after test firing revealed flawless cases - no marks.)

Hope this 'heps.'

A crappy picture handcrafted beauty:

thanks for the info.

I hope to play with it this weekend.

Still waiting on the backordered EGW extractor but will check my current set up with your notes.

[RJ]

1911 noob here. I have the opportunity to use a friend's 1911 in a shooting competition in a few weeks, and have a couple questions.

I am meant to bring my own ammo, obviously. One question is related to selecting from what's available on the shelves of the local stores where I am at currently (Northern Michigan.)

Now this may be a dumb question, but in shooting factory brass 9mm, I typically buy new Federal American Eagle 124. I assume if I buy new brass Federal American Eagle in .45 ACP, I'm getting a similar high-quality new ammo? In terms of other brand options, are there any .45 ACP ammo brands that are as good as AE? Or how about brands to avoid, in shooting a 1911? About all I know about .45 ACP is I think it comes in 230 gr "hardball", which I am most likely going to use, since I don't anticipate paying for premium JHP for a shooting match.

Second question, out of the many videos online of how to perform a basic field strip and clean of a 1911, are there any that stand out as to being useful for someone with basic cleaning supplies to use? I'm pretty comfortable taking my Glock's apart and putting them back together. I have basic basic stuff with me; Slip 2000, patches, a Glock tool. Is there anything else I need to have with me to do a cleaning on the gun before I return it to the owner (assuming they are ok with me cleaning it, of course.)

[farscott]

If you do not have a .45 bore snake, I would add that to your kit. The Glock punch will not be too useful for field stripping.

As for other tools, it depends on how the 1911 is configured. There are enough variations in recoil spring guides (GI, one-piece full length, two-piece full length, reverse plug, etc.) to drive tool selection. I like to keep an English set of allen keys for 1911s (handles two-piece FLGR and some grip screws). For any 1911, I like to keep an old credit card handy to avoid scratching the frame when inserting the slide stop. Some slide stops are not well fit, making depressing the detent harder than it should be.

[awp_101]

For any 1911, I like to keep an old credit card handy to avoid scratching the frame when inserting the slide stop. Some slide stops are not well fit, making depressing the detent harder than it should be.

Are you sliding it between the end of the slide stop and detent or between the frame and slide stop?

[farscott]

Are you sliding it between the end of the slide stop and detent or between the frame and slide stop?

I lay it flat on the frame where the slide stop needs to travel before it slides past the detent. I usually only need it once per pistol, and I do the first install without the recoil spring. The goal is to determine if I need to fit the slide stop. The card insures I do not scratch the frame.

I have also used the card as a buffer when depressing the detent with a flat blade screwdriver when assessing the state of the detent and plunger tube spring when I replace both.

[Chuck Whitlock]

@RJ

230 grain FMJ. New manufacture, not reloads or reman. I would be comfortable with Federal AE, Speer Lawman, or S&B. Remington will probably be OK, since it was bought by Vista (Federal/Speer).

I would tell your friend that you are happy and willing to clean it, but disclose your lack of experience with the 1911 platform. He may have the time and inclination to show you how to do it.

Another thought is to offer to buy the requisite ammo from him, thereby ensuring that it is his chosen ammo being run through his gun.

Since it is his gun, let him be your guiding light.