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Thread: The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

  1. #991
    Site Supporter JohnO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trooper224 View Post
    You might want to keep a prefitted extractor on hand, just for the sake of convenience. I've had extractors last into round counts in the high five digits and others crap out within a few thousand. I've had a few pistols that had other parts failures, while the extractor kept on going. You just never know, so it's convenient to have one on hand you can just drop in and keep going.
    I talked about this in the past on this forum. I had a 1911 extractor go 'belly up' in a class. Larry Vickers was watching me when it happened and he asked for my gun, took a peak then told me "dude you're F'ed the extractor is toast". I grabbed a backup 1911 and continued. The next 2 reloading breaks during the class was enough for me to swap out the extractor and get the gun running again. Even Vickers was surprised. He noticed right away since my backup that day was a stainless gun and the 1911 that went down was black.

    I pulled an Ed Brown extractor out of the wrapper gave it a tensioning tweak by sticking it partially into the into the extractor tunnel and torqueing on it. My field expedient tensioning was enough to get the gun running flawlessly for the remainder of the class. After the class I took the time to insure the extractor was tensioned properly.

    In many cases you will find that a replacement extractor will not match the profile of the rear of the slide and typically some material will need to be removed. Then depending on the finish on the gun refinishing of the extractor may be required.

    I'm convinced I know why my extractor broke. The weekend prior I was with Chuck Taylor (RIP) and ran a bunch of double feed drills (Type 3). The extractor took a beating being forced over a chambered round multiple times.

    It was back to back Type 3 malfunctions that prompted Vickers to ask to see my gun. The clearance procedure for a Type 3 malfunction was worthless with a busted extractor. Most interestingly, I had practiced something that was A. useless when I needed it and B. the cause of my equipment failure.

  2. #992
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnO View Post
    In many cases you will find that a replacement extractor will not match the profile of the rear of the slide and typically some material will need to be removed.
    Agree 100% and this is the norm rather than the exception in my experience. You may not need to fit the extractor if it is a direct OEM replacement part for a production line gun, but if replacing the original with a Wilson Combat or other manufacturer's extractor it will probably require some fitting.

  3. #993
    Site Supporter Trooper224's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robinson View Post
    Agree 100% and this is the norm rather than the exception in my experience. You may not need to fit the extractor if it is a direct OEM replacement part for a production line gun, but if replacing the original with a Wilson Combat or other manufacturer's extractor it will probably require some fitting.
    When i say "fitting" I'm talking about tensioning, ensuring proper geometry of the hook and notch, etc. Whether the extractor sits flush with the back of the sldie is purely cosmetic and incidental. That should be the least of your concerns.
    We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......

  4. #994
    Site Supporter JohnO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trooper224 View Post
    When i say "fitting" I'm talking about tensioning, ensuring proper geometry of the hook and notch, etc. Whether the extractor sits flush with the back of the sldie is purely cosmetic and incidental. That should be the least of your concerns.
    Agreed 100%. However there are many folks who are obsessed with the appearance of their barbecue gun and performance is woefully secondary.

  5. #995
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trooper224 View Post
    When i say "fitting" I'm talking about tensioning, ensuring proper geometry of the hook and notch, etc. Whether the extractor sits flush with the back of the sldie is purely cosmetic and incidental. That should be the least of your concerns.
    Granted. I guess my point was that an extractor is not a drop-in part in many cases, and adjusting the tension is not the only consideration.

  6. #996
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnO View Post
    Agreed 100%. However there are many folks who are obsessed with the appearance of their barbecue gun and performance is woefully secondary.
    I mean, don't get me wrong. I have gats that I want that stuff to look good in when installed but if I hit the end of the road of pre-made spares that have gone the way of the dodo, I am going to drop a replacement part in and fit for function first and then worry about cosmetic at some point later on down the line if the time allows.

  7. #997
    Re type three malfunction clearance drills, I would never do one with my duty 1911. Having a spare 1911 training pistol, with spare extractors, starts to make some sense. $$$$$$. All of a sudden, a G17 starts to look good.

  8. #998
    Site Supporter JohnO's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Williams View Post
    Re type three malfunction clearance drills, I would never do one with my duty 1911. Having a spare 1911 training pistol, with spare extractors, starts to make some sense. $$$$$$. All of a sudden, a G17 starts to look good.
    I’ve managed to break two Glock extractors doing the same drills. The juice just isn’t worth the squeeze. However a broken Glock extractor was just the bottom tip of the hook. The gun became erratic in ejection not completely unable to extract.

  9. #999
    Quote Originally Posted by JohnO View Post
    I talked about this in the past on this forum. I had a 1911 extractor go 'belly up' in a class. Larry Vickers was watching me when it happened and he asked for my gun, took a peak then told me "dude you're F'ed the extractor is toast". I grabbed a backup 1911 and continued. The next 2 reloading breaks during the class was enough for me to swap out the extractor and get the gun running again. Even Vickers was surprised. He noticed right away since my backup that day was a stainless gun and the 1911 that went down was black.

    I pulled an Ed Brown extractor out of the wrapper gave it a tensioning tweak by sticking it partially into the into the extractor tunnel and torqueing on it. My field expedient tensioning was enough to get the gun running flawlessly for the remainder of the class. After the class I took the time to insure the extractor was tensioned properly.

    In many cases you will find that a replacement extractor will not match the profile of the rear of the slide and typically some material will need to be removed. Then depending on the finish on the gun refinishing of the extractor may be required.

    I'm convinced I know why my extractor broke. The weekend prior I was with Chuck Taylor (RIP) and ran a bunch of double feed drills (Type 3). The extractor took a beating being forced over a chambered round multiple times.

    It was back to back Type 3 malfunctions that prompted Vickers to ask to see my gun. The clearance procedure for a Type 3 malfunction was worthless with a busted extractor. Most interestingly, I had practiced something that was A. useless when I needed it and B. the cause of my equipment failure.
    Ever consider the Aftec extractor? I’ve got 80K through one in my open gun, and hasn’t needed anything done to it since day one I’ve never even replaced the springs, even though it came with a spare set.

  10. #1000
    Site Supporter farscott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bucky View Post
    Ever consider the Aftec extractor? I’ve got 80K through one in my open gun, and hasn’t needed anything done to it since day one I’ve never even replaced the springs, even though it came with a spare set.
    Have you removed the AFTEC extractor when detail stripping and cleaning the pistol? For me, the worst part of the AFTEC is getting the extractor out of and back into the gun. The recommended trick is to use a small screwdriver or the firing pin placed behind the extractor to compress the extractor coil springs, allowing the extractor to move and be seated in its channel. I use a screwdriver that was filed down into a connector terminal pick. Chuck Rogers recommends the firing pin as an expedient tool.

    It is way too easy for me to lose those tiny springs. I think that is the reason for the spare springs; it is all too easy to lose a spring getting the extractor out of and back into the pistol. I put the slide into a gallon-size food storage bag to do the work.

    I have one in my Yost Delta. I assume the previous owner installed it as the build sheet called out a Wilson part -- which came with the pistol. I have to say that once installed the AFTEC extractor does work as advertised. The trade-off for no tensioning is the fiddly installation.

    I have been told the AFTEC extractor is well suited for higher pressure rounds, like 9mm Major, 9x23, and 10mm. The flip side of that suggests it is not well suited for lower-pressure rounds like .45 ACP.
    Last edited by farscott; 04-07-2021 at 07:23 AM.

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