Originally Posted by NPV
Check the ejector too. Sometimes they’re glued in and come loose.
Check the ejector too. Sometimes they’re glued in and come loose.
So this my first foray into the MRDS handgun world so I have a long way to go before I can speak with much experience and I don’t have any experience on a 9mm MRDS handgun to directly compare it to.
Tracking the dot under recoil hasn’t been an issue. It goes straight up out of the window very briefly and centers right back into the window. I’ve always had a tendency to target focus with a soft front sight focus on high % targets so transitioning over to the MRDS at the range didn’t present an issue at speed, but when I shot dot torture I found myself chasing the dot a bit. I didn’t put it on a timer the other day as I’m waiting on a holster from JMCK and with the current ammo situation I wanted to get more reps in on my carry piece.
I’d say splits are probably close but I don’t have any quantifiable backup data right now. Once I get more time and reps on it I’ll shoot you a PM so I don’t clog up the thread too much.
Will do I think this one is pinned but I’ll inspect this week and report back.
A loose ejector shouldn't have much, if any, contributing factor on extraction issues as it just sits in the channel of the slide as it reciprocates
If you look the malfunction it didn’t fail to extract.
When the ejector comes unglued it can rock back when the slide moves back causing it to hit the case too high and fail to eject.
A loose extractor doesn’t *usually cause a malfunction, it just makes ejection erratic.
This basically.
I've got a 1911 with about 40,000 rounds through it, and the ejector, though pinned, is wiggling like a loose tooth. It won't fall out, because it's pinned in still, but it wobbles like crazy and the gun still passes the 10-8 extractor test easily.
Ejector is pinned and rock solid.
FPS and extractor needed some attention. Pics below show how badly this thing was clocking.
Issue was twofold, FPS was loosely fit so it was replaced with an EGW oversized stop. Other was there was essentially no tension on the extractor so it wasn’t pressing against the extractor tunnel just magnifying the issue. Once I tensioned up the extractor I couldn’t get it to clock easily even with the factory FPS but I figured I may as well just replace it while I was there.
The extractor nose was just barely touching the case bevel so it was dressed then polished. Also cleaned up the radius on the factory extractor, it was pretty ugly but salvageable. Should be all set, will report back.
At about 19:53 LAV pitches the #18 rationale for the Delta 1911s.
“Remember, being healthy is basically just dying as slowly as possible,” Ricky Gervais
I don't work on these things for a living but I follow a few that do and I recall a particularly high round count Springfield Operator or Colt that is maintained by Ned Christiansen, I believe that at one point had a loose ejector (I think it was the original MIM ejector at close to six figures of rounds). I believe that the owner of whichever 1911 it was said that the ejector would fall out whenever it was field stripped and so he would just place it back in as it didn't cause any issues being so loose. I also believe that Ned opted to just glue it in since it wasn't causing an issue but I am not 100% sure on that. I know he is on this forum so maybe he can clear that part up. I know his work speaks for itself and that he pins his but I believe the owner of the Operator didn't care. Again, perhaps Ned can shed some light on that.
That pretty much sums up why I run a heavier spring in my carry guns. It isn't because of improper feeding cycle, it's because the gun sits unused in a holster for weeks at a time (accumulating lint and being sweat on) with stout duty ammo and then if I need it to defend myself (may God forbid that ever happens), I am about as confident as I can be that it will cycle 100% barring any JohnK-induced malfunctions.
Does the 16/23-18.5/23 rule of thumb hold true for bushing-less barrels with a FLGR? I know the FLGR shouldn’t matter but I don’t know if the different barrel makes a difference or not.
Nothing so needs reforming as other people's habits - Mark Twain
Tact is the knack of making a point without making an enemy / Where is the wisdom we have lost in knowledge?
Setting aside the rule of thumb, the type of guide rod or barrel should be immaterial to the recoil spring weight for a given pistol and load as long as the spring does not bind or stack due to the guide rod and plug. Bind or stack should not be possible unless a Government spring plug is used in a Commander or shorter pistol.
As for the rule of thumb, I do not use it. I pick a recoil spring for a 1911 based on how far it ejects empties with the installed firing pin safety, hammer, and mainspring for a given load. I do not want the empties in the next county nor do I want them barely making it out of the ejection port. A decent pile four to six feet away is nice. Changing any of the three can change the recoil spring weight. As can the slide/frame fit. I have two models of the same 1911 (STI Trojan) in the same caliber (9x19) that use different recoil springs. One has a 12# spring and one has a 10# spring. The differences in the pistols are hammers and mainsprings. One has the stock hammer; the other has a C&S action kit installed.
Last edited by farscott; 12-01-2020 at 12:12 PM.
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