Fun little update from the recent P&S Modcast for folks looking for base guns to build out: Joe Chambers stated that all recent examples of RIA 1911s have come across his table had frame and small part dimensions that were more correct (fitted to proper 1911 specs) than the Turkish imports, BULs, and recent Springfields that have come across his table.
Presumably, that means the RIA frames and slides might have fewer "gremlins" if built out with proper parts and following a good manual.
Well, you may be a man. You may be a leprechaun. Only one thing’s for sure… you’re in the wrong basement.
I used Gorilla Glue on mine. I glued the side tabs to the underside of the grip panels, so nothing's glued directly to the frame.Originally Posted by M1Garand
We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......
That's disappointing to hear about Springfield. I always liked them, because when it came time for a rebuild all the key points were typically in spec.
We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......
I shot a match this past weekend and when cleaning my MCOP, I noticed it had a lot of grit that made its way to the interior.... I took it all the way down to clean.
I had a wild hair moment and took a chance on the front strap that has bothered me for years.
While I needed to go a little more, I don't have the right tools (limited to files, sandpaper and DREMEL) and I never ordered the tool to make sure I had ample thickness. So, I got scared and stop short for now.
I used some automotive gray high heat primer to cover the exposed metal and heat treated the paint with a heat gun. I don't know how oil resistant the primer will be... but just looking to keep it from rusting.
on another note, I bought 5 Vickers mags with steel base plates. I don't care for the look of the tapered base plates, but I like the added grip they offered as the older I got, everything seems slippery to me.
When I first got these mags, they would not seat w/o slamming them home. I ran into the same issue with ETMs and aluminum base plates. I trimmed the ETM aluminum base plates, and they work great. I removed about .005" from the steel Vickers plate (they are hard) which got them to seat empty. Put eight rounds and some required extra effort to seat. I likely need to trim more. Also, 7 rounds load easy, #8.... did not. Vulgarity helped with pushing it home, but they functioned well. I am not sure if my frame is out of spec, or it's just a Wilson Combat thing with clearance and base plates with stops. I took the mags apart to inspect and clean out any grit, those springs are beefy.
If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!
On Joe's Patreon page, 1911 University, he speaks quite highly of the RIA guns he's measured, with the (large) caveat that they're very inexpensive pistols. Fairly recently he measured a Springfield Mil-Spec, and said it would be quite a good base gun for a custom build. The higher-end Springfields haven't fared very well in his reviews. He's generally complementary about the Dan Wessons, and most of the Stacatto P series.
Joe commented on the Dan Wessons on the podcast, lamenting that they used to be the best 1911 you could buy for $1,100-1,200… until Dan Wesson realized that point and put that pricing in the rear view mirror.
Well, you may be a man. You may be a leprechaun. Only one thing’s for sure… you’re in the wrong basement.
I truly believe it is a WC thing. I have the same issue across all of my 1911s, whether in .45 acp or 9mm. I wouldn't think that all I have are out of spec, including my Wilson CQB. Vulgarity helps.I shot a match this past weekend and when cleaning my MCOP, I noticed it had a lot of grit that made its way to the interior.... I took it all the way down to clean.
I had a wild hair moment and took a chance on the front strap that has bothered me for years.
While I needed to go a little more, I don't have the right tools (limited to files, sandpaper and DREMEL) and I never ordered the tool to make sure I had ample thickness. So, I got scared and stop short for now.
I used some automotive gray high heat primer to cover the exposed metal and heat treated the paint with a heat gun. I don't know how oil resistant the primer will be... but just looking to keep it from rusting.
on another note, I bought 5 Vickers mags with steel base plates. I don't care for the look of the tapered base plates, but I like the added grip they offered as the older I got, everything seems slippery to me.
When I first got these mags, they would not seat w/o slamming them home. I ran into the same issue with ETMs and aluminum base plates. I trimmed the ETM aluminum base plates, and they work great. I removed about .005" from the steel Vickers plate (they are hard) which got them to seat empty. Put eight rounds and some required extra effort to seat. I likely need to trim more. Also, 7 rounds load easy, #8.... did not. Vulgarity helped with pushing it home, but they functioned well. I am not sure if my frame is out of spec, or it's just a Wilson Combat thing with clearance and base plates with stops. I took the mags apart to inspect and clean out any grit, those springs are beefy.
hahahahah, EVERYTIME!!!!!
If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!
Well, the Gorilla Glue was a fail. Upon removing the part, I finally noted a couple of slits in the sheet metal and bent the part around the frame as obviously intended. That's a fail by my powers of observation, but including some instructions would have been nice. If the front strap on your pistol is anything other than exact spec, like an older Springfield with a more squared front strap, this will not work.
We may lose and we may win, but we will never be here again.......
I've come to like the front strap cover offered by Talon Grips for my 1911s without checkering. Easy to apply and stays put if you heat it during application. I prefer the PRO version which is like a combination of the rubber and the granular in one.
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