The worst thing anyone ever did was come up with Allen/Torx screws for 1911s.
"Hey let's eliminate the ability to take the gun apart without tools, by adding something that doesn't improve the function in the least!"
The worst thing anyone ever did was come up with Allen/Torx screws for 1911s.
"Hey let's eliminate the ability to take the gun apart without tools, by adding something that doesn't improve the function in the least!"
There is a chance the the hammer hooks were cut slightly different, but there is a spec.doe where those hooks should be and it shouldn't be far enough out of spec for guys like us to spot. A top smith could smell it was out of spec! Glad you got your thumb safety sorted out. The number of people who just drop those sorts of parts in without fitting them scares the crap out of me.
I love a very reactive, springy grip safety myself. The floppy, sloppy ones are not my favorite.
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Me too. Or when people try to fit those parts without really knowing how. The safeties on a 1911 have a narrow window of adjustment in which they work properly. Adjusting them requires knowing just how much material to remove at just the right place. If you remove too much from where the grip safety meets the trigger bow you ruin the part. But with a thumb safety if you remove too much not only do you ruin the part, but it renders the gun completely unsafe to use and may even allow the gun to fire unexpectedly.
I'm no gunsmith, but learning how the safeties interact with the other systems in the gun is important for a 1911 user and essential to someone who feels they need to fine tune them.
the actuation of this safety when I got the MCOP
it had no click and full sweep up was met with a mushy feel.
Upon inspection of the sear engagement lug, it was swaged and the corner was rolled from non-fitted contact with the sear.
I like WC Bullet Proof safeties but I dont like new pricing.
I have bought used and utilized a micro welder on blued safeties to build up the fitting lug and then refit.
The cost to ship (both ways) and the welding was still much cheaper that buying new and turn around was not bad.
IIRC, the bluing was not blemished with the micro welding.
If you're going to be a bear….be a GRIZZLY!
About 8 years ago I had my Colt .38 super cerocoated. It looked great until I started using it with a kydex holster. Years of draws later it has honest wear, scratches and nicks. A fair bit of silver steel shows in contrast to the satin black finish. But no idiot mark.. I am very close to buying some krylon rattle cans and giving it a backyard camo job.
So thanks to advice in this thread and sources I found by reading it (multiple times), I've successfully detail stripped and cleaned an old high round count Kimber Team Match II that really needed it, and tuned the grip safety to the point where I want it. I now have an issue with the drop safety in relation to the sensitized grip safety, but I'll be remedying that soon, probably tomorrow.
The one problem I noticed while I had the gun apart was that the plunger tube has just the slightest amount of play. I doubt it would fail on the next range outing, but obviously something needs to be done about it. I've read all the plunger tube discussion from the beginning of the thread. My specific question is, what is the most expedient way to get the thing locked back in place with minimal resources available? I live in an apartment, so disassembly and some basic filing is totally doable. I won't be doing much more involved that that, though.
I'm guessing stake and loctite? Or is there a different preferred solution for one that's just barely loose? Or am I better off taking a chance on a local gun smith?