The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

[gtmtnbiker98]

I have a 5-inch 1911 in 9mm, have had for a number of years. You're right about it being the easy button. In that respect, it's too much of a good thing for me.

When shooting today, I was hitting .17-.20 splits (with ease) which I cannot do with my Glocks. The only issue is that it is evident that it is a longer draw stroke from the holster which slows my draw, the timer doesn’t lie.

[RJ]

Section 1

...Well, as I was doing this, I realized I could leverage the format of my MRDS Quick Reference Cards to hold the content, so I grabbed a blank file and typed my notes there. Once I got started, one thing led to another, and I ended up needing two cards with the stuff I ended up with. I call them A Cards and B Cards; the A is for the basics, the B for the full take down / put together.

So this is where I ended up on this so-called "Pistol Quick Reference Card (1911A1)". I suspect it won't be that useful if you've been around these guns forever, but I tried to include information oriented towards a new 1911 user, like me. And if they aren't, you can always use them as 3"x5" targets.



As always, don't print the image, download and print the pdf file normal size and cut out/fold over.

[farscott]

Section 1



So this is where I ended up on this so-called "Pistol Quick Reference Card (1911A1)". I suspect it won't be that useful if you've been around these guns forever, but I tried to include information oriented towards a new 1911 user, like me. And if they aren't, you can always use them as 3"x5" targets.

As always, don't print the image, download and print the pdf file normal size and cut out/fold over.

Great contribution to any 1911 user. Been around the design more more than four decades now, and there are still things to learn.

One comment on the safeties test. Both "no go" cases are covered, but the normal fire case is not. I like to verify the unloaded gun does not fire when either or both safeties are engaged. Once that is checked, I depress the grip safety, flip off the thumb safety, and verify the hammer falls completely.

If the pistol has a firing pin safety, I will take a new #2 pencil and insert it into the muzzle with the eraser towards the firing pin. With the muzzle elevated so the eraser contacts the breech face, I will dry fire. If the pencil does not move or does not exit the barrel nicely, an issue exists with the firing pin safety. Your 1911 does not have a firing pin safety, so this test is not needed after field strip assembly. I will sometimes perform it with a pistol without a firing pin safety, mostly if I have removed and/or replaced the firing pin and/or firing pin spring as part of a detail strip.

[RJ]

Great contribution to any 1911 user. Been around the design more more than four decades now, and there are still things to learn.

One comment on the safeties test. Both "no go" cases are covered, but the normal fire case is not. I like to verify the unloaded gun does not fire when either or both safeties are engaged. Once that is checked, I depress the grip safety, flip off the thumb safety, and verify the hammer falls completely.

If the pistol has a firing pin safety, I will take a new #2 pencil and insert it into the muzzle with the eraser towards the firing pin. With the muzzle elevated so the eraser contacts the breech face, I will dry fire. If the pencil does not move or does not exit the barrel nicely, an issue exists with the firing pin safety. Your 1911 does not have a firing pin safety, so this test is not needed after field strip assembly. I will sometimes perform it with a pistol without a firing pin safety, mostly if I have removed and/or replaced the firing pin and/or firing pin spring as part of a detail strip.

Very good input. How does this sound. Better?

Ck 1: Safety engaged: Hammer should not fall
Ck 2: Safety disengaged, grip released: Hammer should not fall
WITH UNLOADED GUN: With either or both safeties engaged, verify hammer does not fall. Depress Grip Safety, push down thumb safety, verify hammer falls completely.

[farscott]

Very good input. How does this sound. Better?

Ck 1: Safety engaged: Hammer should not fall
Ck 2: Safety disengaged, grip released: Hammer should not fall
WITH UNLOADED GUN: With either or both safeties engaged, verify hammer does not fall. Depress Grip Safety, push down thumb safety, verify hammer falls completely.

Reads great to me.

[358156hp]

Speaking of safetys, I need some help picking an blued ambi thumb safety for a Springfield 1911. The prime candidates appear to be Wilson Bulletproof, which is currently backordered direct, but I've found a couple at well over Wilsons direct retail price, then there's EGWs HD ambi, it's got some extra things going on, but I really like that it doesn't require a grip cut for retention, then there's Ed Browns HD version, solid steel and commonly available. I've heard mixed reports on Ed Brown quality for a few years and have very little first-hand experience with the company.

Any recommendations, or other potential suppliers? I'll pay what is necessary for good quality.

[03RN]

EGW

I no longer trust ambis that just rely on a tongue and groove.

[358156hp]

EGW

I no longer trust ambis that just rely on a tongue and groove.

Almost all of them that I've seen so far appear to be tongue in groove. I'm open to suggestions and recommendations.

[03RN]

Almost all of them that I've seen so far appear to be tongue in groove. I'm open to suggestions and recommendations.

Then egw.

[358156hp]

Then egw.

That's where I'm sitting at the moment. the sleeved joint method is putting them ahead. I see that Wilson Bulletproof has the tongue & groove moved further outboard, but it still appears to be relatively unsupported.