The Art and Science of Keeping Your 1911 Running

[45dotACP]

For a moment, yeah, I really thought it would be easy as having a 5” .45 rebuilt by a name smith and living my best life.

I had a put a few mags through the gun, and then have mostly just done dry fire and manipulations- all good, very happy. I was shooting with a buddy when the slide started hanging up short of being in full battery, I was able to “tap” it into battery, but shortly after it got jammed up pretty hard.

I was at least smart enough to get it hard-stuck in a fully unloaded condition. At that point, I was suspecting either the disconnector or the link. I then got the bright idea to dissemble the gun by pulling the slide stop and getting the slide off the frame. Well, the slide stop came out but now the gun was completely frozen.

My local smith got the slide forward and dissembled it in the “traditional” bushing-first removal process. He told me it was the link, and sure enough, there is a bright shiny spot on the link.

I took pictures of the link, the slide stop, and the frame interior. I don’t know what any of these markings/shiny spots actually mean. I’ve read posts of experienced people looking at the parts and realizing stuff- so any-any discussion would be awesome.

I really, really want to trust this gun. I’ve had 5” bushing factory-fit guns that I trusted. I’ve never had a custom, before this one, that wasn’t built as a dedicated rimfire. This gun is remarkably tight, and I’m completely cool with that.

My goal is to understand what happened, what my role was in causing it to happen, and what appropriate measures I have to take to prevent re-occurrence.

Attachment 117067

Attachment 117069

Attachment 117070

Attachment 117071

Maybe I'm seeing stuff, but it looks like a piece is missing from one of your lower barrel lugs?

[Bergeron]

I think it’s the lighting and lubrication on the gun, the barrel lugs appear fully intact.

[farscott]

Does the frame have the proper "bowtie" as a result of the vertical impact surface (VIS) being milled so that barrel feet, not the link, stop the barrel travel? Example pic found by Google-fu below.

[Bergeron]

Not something that I had thought to check-

Here’s pic below, I’ll be away from the gun until next week, so if we need more pics we’ll have to be patient.

Would the lack of a bow tie cut cause gun to bind up like that? I never had a tight, or “built” 1911 before, so some of the nuances are new to me.

[Trooper224]

Not something that I had thought to check-

Here’s pic below, I’ll be away from the gun until next week, so if we need more pics we’ll have to be patient.

Would the lack of a bow tie cut cause gun to bind up like that? I never had a tight, or “built” 1911 before, so some of the nuances are new to me.

No, it would not. The purpose of the bowtie is to ensure the impact against the VIS is properly focused on the upper area of the lower lug.

[farscott]

That image suggests the barrel feet are striking the VIS in a pretty uniform fashion. I do not see an issue there. And the lack of a cut with that uniform contact is not an issue.

The smith that took it apart said the link caused the failure. That would suggest the link is a bit too long or is not a good fit to the slide stop pin, allowing it to rotate and interfere with slide travel. Another possibility is the slide stop is backing out under recoil. A quick check of the ID of the link and the OD of the slide stop shaft and how they fit is a simple check. They should be a pretty tight fit.

Really dumb question: What is the finish on the metal and how well were the slide rails lubed? If the finish is Melonite or similar, warping may explain the issue. It also may be as simple as tight 1911-pattern pistols need a lot of lube to be reliable.

My next item in the fishbone would be barrel springing caused by the bushing forcing the barrel into battery so as to make unlocking an issue. That one is exacerbated by firing as the parts get warm and ever so slightly get larger. First test. With the pistol assembled, held upright, and the barrel in battery, apply pressure in the downward direction to the barrel hood. If the barrel hood moves downward and returns to battery when the pressure is removed, the barrel is not properly fit.

Second test. Remove the upper from the lower. Remove the recoil spring, recoil spring guide rod, and spring plug. Ensure the barrel bushing is in the pistol. With the barrel in battery, push the barrel toward the slide (as if it is unlocking from the lugs during cycling. When you stop pushing, the barrel should not move, especially the hood moving to contact the slide lugs. If it moves back towards lockup, the barrel bushing fit is not correct.

[Bergeron]

Fantastic information, thank you! I should be able to get the tests notes above once I have me hands on the gun early next week. I will be sure to report back!

[SW CQB 45]

Putting the Nina together... I see this.

Since this is not a carry piece, I will shoot it till I get another one purchased and fitted.

look at 8 o'clock just outside the firing pin hole



look at 4 o'clock just outside the firing pin hole



BIG QUESTION....

Is there any benefit to putting a square edge FPS to a target 9mm pistol (to slow the slide)?

the original FPS is rounded and I have never had an issue with this pistol. It was built in 2011.

[farscott]

Small radii or "square bottom" firing pin stops are not recommended for 9x19 1911-pattern pistols. The round is marginal on slide speed during cycling and reducing the slide's leverage on the mainspring is counterproductive.

[SW CQB 45]

thank you sir.

I was of the same belief, but could not locate that info.

I will likely have to buy a square corner FPS and round it off myself.