I have standard issue small hands/short fingers. With the stock trigger and reach I had a natural tendency to push the shot low/left. I initially corrected that by applying a little pressure with my left thumb on the frame. That immediately put my shots on target. The Overwatch DAT (the polymer version) works well for me. It does feel better and I shoot better, tighter groups one-handed.
You will more often be attacked for what others think you believe than what you actually believe. Expect misrepresentation, misunderstanding, and projection as the modern normal default setting. ~ Quintus Curtius
I was instructing a shooter the other day who was left handed and pushing shots right. He insisted that it was the gun and not him. He stated that his other gun was more better and that he shot straight with it. So I asked him if he brought it along and he did. I told him to retrieve it and come back to the firing line....which was at the 5 yard line.
He did so and, of course, pushed his shots to the right with it as well.
At the five yard line his target was the smallest Post It note that they make.....yellow in color.....on the back of a B8 target (scoring rings and bull facing the backstop). The goal was to put each and every shot within that small Post It.
At first, most of his shots were to the right (again, a lefty).
Fifteen minutes of instruction (including use of snap caps, dry fire, and some of him aiming and me manipulating the trigger so he could see what a surprise break feels like) and he was shooting clean.
Once I learned trigger control, I have been shocked at how good a stock Glock can print at 25 yards. Fix the issues and then seek out triggers.
Regards.
PS....this shooter I was instructing was floored by how far I sink the trigger finger into the gun.
Not to discount the above recommendations to put more triggerfinger into the trigger and/or drift the rear sight to compensate, but I still think that there is something a bit wonky with the Gen4 G22s and shooting to the left; I have not encountered the issue with my similarly frame-sized Gen3 G17, with my previous Gen3 G34, with my Gen 3 G21 or Gen 3 G19s. Similarly, I've anecdotally heard of other shooters having the same issue with the same gun, and had confirmations with a credible industry source of the same.
That's not to say that finger positioning and/or sight drifting won't adequately resolve the shooting to the left tendency, but I still think there's something inherent to the gun as a causal factor.
Best, Jon
Last edited by JonInWA; 05-01-2019 at 05:32 PM.
A glock trigger is a glock trigger, that's the way I look at it. Unless you get a trigger that defeats the internal safeties I don't think it's going to be a huge difference. Definitely not a huge enough difference to bring in your shots 10" from left.
As others have stated I'd try more trigger finger and tweak your grip. Pretty much every glock I have [ which are gen 4] have my rear sight drifted to varying degrees.
Here is the kicker though. Can anyone tell me why I shoot gen 4 20 and 29 glocks accurate as hell ? I have sights dead center, stock triggers, the grips are so huge I don't get as much trigger finger on them, yet I shoot them the most accurately. I'm actually thinking it has to do with the size of the grip. I might throw on the large backstraps on my 9mm and see what happens. It doesn't feel great in the hand, but I guess that doesn't necessarily mean that a pistol will shoot better just because it feels better in the hand.
I think part of the issue for those of us with shorter fingers is that we can't really give it more trigger finger without making our grip wonky. I recently brought up my concern in this thread.
For years now it's just been something I've dealt with, and while I'm usually accurate enough for my needs, it still bothers me. I feel like I'm too married to the 19 at this point to consider a different gun altogether, but am open to the idea of trying a different trigger.
Last edited by Chain; 05-01-2019 at 07:27 PM.
I have small hands. I shoot gen 3 and previous Glocks left. I shoot gen 4 17s and 26s very well. I shoot gen 4 19s left.
Ignore Alien Orders
Thanks everyone for the replies so far. I plan to do a range trip within the next week to try more finger.
Also, more importantly, I took the NY1 and - Connector out of my Glocks. I have a trigger pull gauge and I don't remember if I ever tested my glocks. They were all about 8 pounds. I was surprised because I remember learning years ago that NY1 was 8 pounds and the - Connector would reduce the weight by 2 pounds.
Such that a stock glock was 5.5 lbs and if you put a - connector it would drop the weight to 3.5 pounds.
Well, in reality, at least according to my Lyman trigger pull gauge, I was getting 8 pounds with NY1/Minus combo. I'm getting a little over 6 pounds with stock trigger spring/connector. And I get 5.5 pounds with the stock trigger spring/Minus Connector.
Very surprised that the Minus connector is only dropping it by 1/2 pound. But, the difference in the break point is extremely noticable between stock trigger spring with and without the minus connector. On the minus, it's really easy to miss the point between slack and fire. On the standard, it's really easy to get that slack out and hold my finger on that point without accidentally breaking the trigger unless I want to.
Here's a follow up question on triggers like the Overwatch that reduce pre-travel...
Does it only impact the first shot? Because I was also taught (and I think this is controversial because I've read some trainers post that you shouldn't do this) to let the trigger go after each shot only to the reset point. If that's the case, then you don't have any pre-travel on followup shots anyway, right?
And if I'm tracking, maybe the reduced pre-travel triggers are more suited for people who don't only go to the trigger reset point, and who instead let the trigger fully release? Or at least, would be most beneficial to those shooters.
At this point, I will probably keep one of each of the 3 combinations in 3 different glocks to my range trip so I can compare in live fire in addition to dry fire. One with NY1/Minus, One with Stock Spring/Minus, and One with Stock Spring/Stock Connector. But I'll bring all of the parts and my glock armorers tool so I can swap different combos in different guns in case it turns out there is another difference that's gun-specific.
8 lb for a DA trigger press is not unreasonable. I found the NY1/- combo easier to shoot than the standard spring and - connector in my G3 G34. It was more like a normal DA than the caulking gun extrusion then a wall.
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Not another dime.
I shoot my G21 more accurately with less effort than I do 17’s and 19’s. I attribute it to a more natural alignment between the trigger and my longish fingers. Just throwing a back strap on doesn’t completely fix this, though. There is a big difference in frame width.Originally Posted by 10mmfanboy
In real life, even with mass-produced components, there can be variations between specified and actual trigger pull weights with the various connector, triggerbar and trigger spring components on individual Glocks. With each of my Glocks, I empirically analyze them, and tune with Glock component swaps as necessary.
Best, Jon
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