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Thread: Glock Trigger Options 2019 (Maybe It Will Fix My Left-Shooting)

  1. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by powell556 View Post
    I've read through several threads on here and elsewhere about glocks shooting left. I never noticed it before, because it doesn't show up at range range. I can shoot dead center at 3 to 5 yards. And in the past, I lacked the skill to notice at distance because my groups were so large at 15 to 25 yards that it wasn't noticable.

    Now that I've improved my skills, I am noticing that I can get 4" groups at 25 yards that are 10" left of the target.

    Maybe it's the mechanical issue of the gun. Maybe It's the way I'm gripping the gun. Maybe it's the way I'm manipulating the trigger. Maybe it's all three. I've been working quite a bit on altering grip and trigger finger placement to no avail.

    What I'd like to try is upgrading my triggers. Maybe shooting left won't be impacted by putting in nicer triggers, but regardless, I should probably consider nicer triggers. I've heard good things about Overwatch Precision and a couple others.

    What I'm using now is the factory glock trigger with a NY1 trigger spring and a minus disconnect. Around 20 years ago, this is what I was told was the best trigger at the time. It was supposed to give a combined total weight of about 6 pounds (combining the 8 pounds trigger spring with the 3.5 pounds disconnect), which was the same as the factory 5.5 pound trigger but it was supposed to be less "mooshy".

    I've heard people say this is stupid. Maybe it is. 20 years ago the internet was new and also there was less options for aftermarket stuff. Also, Massad Ayoob scared me into not messing with the trigger. Lately, I'm hesitant to mess with the trigger because I carry AIWB and I've heard that aftermarket triggers that reduce pretravel of the trigger may result in negating some of the safeties in the gun, which is bad for AIWB. I don't want to get into an ECQC type situation where I am kneed/kicked on my holster, or maybe just fall hard on the ground on the holster, or slammed into a car, and the holstered gun discharges because the gun isn't "drop safe" anymore due to the new trigger.

    Those were my reasons in the past. I'm open to change. Should I buy an overwatch precision or other trigger? Does it include everything such as a trigger spring and disconnect or do I use the factory ones, and if so, which should I use?

    I have three glocks, all of them *I* shoot left. One of them I moved the rear sight about 80% to the right and it "only" shoots about 5" left at 25 yards. I could put it all the way to the right but I feel like it's probably me at that point. The trigger may or may not help, but I think I've hit the point in skill (being about upper-beginner to intermediate-level) where I may notice improvement in shooting with a better trigger.
    I think you try using more trigger finger before investing in a hardware solution. Any rear sight adjustment required with a Glock is typically minimal unless it is a software issue you are trying to fix, at which point the rear dovetail is not wide enough to fix it!
    Likes pretty much everything in every caliber.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by GJM View Post
    I think you try using more trigger finger before investing in a hardware solution. Any rear sight adjustment required with a Glock is typically minimal unless it is a software issue you are trying to fix, at which point the rear dovetail is not wide enough to fix it!
    That's what I figured. And regarding trigger finger, I was trying a little less trigger finger, and a little more, but I'm going to try much more at my next range trip. I read in another post someone commenting that right handed shooters going left typically means not enough trigger finger.

    It's weird because in my head. I would think too much trigger finger would push the gun left. Whereas not enough would push the gun right.

    And you're spot on about the dovetail issue. That's why I figured it was a software issue because I got about 80% to the right and realized "damn, this can't be right, I'm still shooting left, am I going to crank it all the way to the edge?"

    Interestingly, the front sight stays still when I dry fire. So I'm not sure if maybe I'm only doing the bad thing during live fire in response to recoil. Like pushing too much on my grip in reaction to the recoil whereas during dry fire, my brain knows there's no recoil. I've done ball and dummy drills and usually I'm okay. Sometimes I notice a bit of a flinch but most of the time it's click with a smooth and constant sight picture.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JonInWA View Post
    The NY1/minus connector was a great alternative setup for Gen 1 - Gen 3 Glocks;
    If it makes a difference to getting a new Overwatch trigger, mine are all Gen 3.

  4. #14

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by HopetonBrown View Post
    Thanks for sharing that! I'm optimistic to try this later in the week at my next range trip. I'm not sure why I didn't consider that. When I heard suggestions of "try using more or less finger" I assumed that meant medium amount or very little. And a few of the squared away ROs at the range showed me how much finger they use and it was about 2/3 of the way from the tip of the first phlange.

    I'm actually excited that this may be the answer. I was worried if the answer was less finger, then under stress, I'd never be able to do that. I think under stress, I'll default to more finger than less finger because I imagine I'll shove my finger in as far as it goes until it stops. Just a guess, I have no competition or real-world shooting experience.

  6. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Jay585 View Post
    Does it work with a Gen 5 striker control device? I noticed TAU doesn't make a reduced pre-travel model for the Gen5.
    I should ask if it works with the Gen 3 SCD since that's what I have.

  7. #17
    Site Supporter Jay585's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by powell556 View Post
    I should ask if it works with the Gen 3 SCD since that's what I have.
    Depends which type. There's two (both pre-Gen5): OEMM Glock & Aftermarket reduced pre-travel.

    My assumption is that you'd need the latter to work with a TAC/DAC trigger.
    "Well you know, it's a toolbox. You put the tools in for the job." Sam

  8. #18
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    You need better grip and trigger control. A new trigger won't solve your problems.

  9. #19
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    I thought the same thing as OP for a while. Try some ball and dummy drills and I guarantee you will find the issue.

  10. #20
    What size are your hands? I only ask because I went down a very similar road shooting Glocks for the past ten years. I just recently switched to a different gun with much improved trigger reach and I’m shooting better and not fighting the gun. Just a thought.


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