Dry firing and racking the slide question...

[Mystery]

This is what I was doing.
I racked the slide all the way to the back and it locked.
Then I pulled the rack back so I can press the slide lock down.
Then I pulled the trigger.
Again, I racked the slide all the way to the back and it locked... same thing as before.
And I thought, man this dry firing takes a lot of work to pull trigger one time.
Yes I'm a n00b, what do you expect?
So I watched review videos carefully and noticed they are racking slide only a little bit to reset the trigger, almost same as press check.

I did the same and it works but still have a question.
How far am I supposed to rack the slide for trigger reset so I can dry fire without locking/releasing the slide?

[idahojess]

Take the mag out?
It shouldn't lock back (without using the slide lock hold it locked back) without the empty mag in it.
You should be able to rack it just a bit to cock the action and reset the trigger. You can usually feel the trigger reset if you keep your finger on it. Once you get used to it you can almost hear it and feel it in the slide. Try going halfway, you'll probably be there -- if not, go a little further.
Dry fire is a good thing. Be safe, have a routine, no ammo in the area, gun in a safe direction.

[JTQ]

Take the mag out?

That's right.

[Stephanie B]

Take the mag out?

That's right.

Not applicable for guns with mag safeties...

[JTQ]

Not applicable for guns with mag safeties...

True. However, I think the OP is in Colorado and has an M&P 2.0.

[mmc45414]

So I watched review videos carefully and noticed they are racking slide only a little bit to reset the trigger
I did the same and it works but still have a question.
How far am I supposed to rack the slide for trigger reset so I can dry fire without locking/releasing the slide?

You are doing it right. The striker travels only a short distance, probably only a little more than 1/4", and the very last part of the slide travel is what cocks it and resets things. If you lock the slide back and flip the pistol over, you can see the striker on the underneath side of the slide, and it will be evident that it moves only a short distance. That distance is all the farther you need to move the slide to reset the gun.

[archangel]

If you do need or want to have the mag in while dry firing, these work great to keep the slide from locking back:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Safety-T.../dp/B07CNBDHSB

[Mike C]

@Mystery, to echo what Archangel said these are great, (also made for AR mags). Snap cap or the like to protect your striker/firing pin and the Rogers mag insert make dry firing great and easy. You can use the affiliate link for PF and shop on Amazon to get everything you need, (helps Tom). Attached is a photo of what I like to use. Amazon also has little chamber inserts that will fire off a laser and have a rubberized strike area for the striker/firing pin, (cheap makeshift cert pistol). I often switch between the laser insert and just a regular snap cap. Sometimes I find myself searching for the laser to indicate impact so I will pull it out and just use the snap cap so my attention isn't drawn from the sights. I like this small kit because when I travel I can still safely dry fire and practice even when I don't have time to get to the range. It takes up nothing in terms of space and allows for consistency with training regimen. Add some scaled off printable targets from the internet or Stoeger's website and you're all set.

Here is how I mostly use the training aids:

Snap caps for front sight focus and accuracy drills on reduced sized/scaled targets.
Laser insert for working from the holster to help diagnose issues, work on good first round hits to vitals on scaled targets ICW timer to add stress.
Mag inserts all the time as they help work reloads and allow racking of slide, (also helps as a layer of safety)
Dummy/snap caps also work for live fire ball dummy drills.

Attachment 37695

[jetfire]

I've started doing all my dry fire with a mag loaded full of obvious dummy rounds for a couple of fun reasons. First is realistic weight, which is nice, and the second is it helps me keep track of how many reps I've done. For example, if I'm working on presentations from the holster, I'll draw, "fire," then eject the dummy round and chamber another one. Once the mag is empty I know I've done 15 reps and it's time to either change the par time or work on something new.

[Sal Picante]

There is a really good book about this.

Do yourself a favor and buy it. This get's talked about a bit...

My preference with a 1911 or a Glock, is just to ignore the trigger - I just press a dead trigger.
With something with a resetting trigger (M&P was mentioned), just press the trigger under the spring tension without resetting it.

Check out this video of Production GM Eric Kamps dry-firing. Notice he just doesn't really care about the trigger resetting...
(You should also totally follow him if you're on IG. He's one of the best, most genuine people I know and shoots like a boss.)

http://instagram.com/p/BvnhiCEHfl6/