GP100 vs Vintage S&W 686, 19, 66, other? First and Only Revolver

[Borderland]

Thanks for the replies so far. I'm now heavily leaning toward the 19 or 66.

Since I plan to carry it in the woods, and also would like to be able to AIWB it CCW if needed, the 19/66 is the smallest/lightest of the guns I am looking at. I don't plan to shoot much magnums through it at all, so that's not an issue. I do plan to dry fire it a lot, and as mentioned, the greater inertia of the heavier cylinders of the GP100 and 686 would theoretically accelerate wear on the cylinder (to some degree at least, even if small) during dry fire. So in theory, the 19 would be a superior dry fire tool compared to the rest.

Also, I had a chance to handle one last night and it fit my hand really well. The GP100 felt like I was holding a brick. The 19 felt really nice.

My plan now is to look for either a 19/66 or 585/686 and pick up whichever I can find in good shape at a good price locally. With an edge towards the 19 if I can find one of those first.

Just a FYI if you do buy a Model 19/66 or 586/686. Do not overlook the 2 1/2" models. The accuracy is amazing for such a short barrel. The 19 I have always makes me smile. If you want to hike and carry concealed that's the one I would choose. If the mag loads are too much just shoot some 38 plus P in it.

[03RN]

I'm currently awaiting my 2.75" M66. I think it's going to make a pretty good compromise. I've been shooting my ranges rental one and it really isn't any harder to shoot than my 4" m19 with full house loads.

We'll see how long it can handle Magnum ammo.

[Poconnor]

If I was buying a new revolver today I would buy a Ruger GP100 4”. The S&W’s with the Hillary hole just scream wrong. I have a friend that loves his new Smiths but he doesn’t shoot them much and he only has two. A 4” 686 and a 4” 629. Which ever you pick I would go to a LGS that has a large inventory of the model you want and try the trigger on several. Buy the one that feels best. My rule of thumb about shooting revolvers is Rugers for .38 or .357 mag. S&W j frame and K frame shoot .38s - N frame for magnums. Obviously that is a greatly simplified rule. The GP100 has been out for a long time so if you look often you should be able to find a nice SS 4” one with Adj sights. Don’t try an old slicked up S&W K frame. It will spoil you and make you dislike Rugers but it will remind you that Jesus loves you

[revchuck38]

Had Vito at S&W do some work on this -5 before he retired, so I'm going to try to hang on to this one.

He did my 10-8, 681-2 and 22-4. You're right, they're keepers.

[Spartan1980]

Which is one reason I wish they’d make more steel-framed guns with Ti cylinders.

Well those have their issues, at least in .357 mag. The attached pic has "reportedly" an insanely small number of rounds on it.
.45 in the N frames aren't an issue.

[jtcarm]

Well those have their issues, at least in .357 mag. The attached pic has "reportedly" an insanely small number of rounds on it.
.45 in the N frames aren't an issue.

Yeah, dunno that I’d want one in a magnum, but a .44 app or .45 would be sweet.

[Ed L]

Someone more knowledgeable please correct me. I think the concern with heavy/fast dryfire practice with the 28 is that it's a very heavy cylinder and momentum can affect the cylinder.

Pretty much correct.
Cylinder notch peening starts fast and slows to a crawl as time goes by. K frames aren't terribly bad; L frames slightly worse; N frames can be a definite issue with heavy and hard dryfire.

Damn, you folks are good. I had never heard of this before and I am glad to have learned about it now.

Is it only an issue with dry fire with an N-frame?

Or is an issue with dry fire because it is something that you will likely put many more reps in than with live fire?

thanks so much.

As it happened I picked up a cherry NY State Police S&W Model 28 a few months ago and have not had a chance to fire it. But I have done some dry firing with snap caps on a few occasions. If this is a problem I will stop forthwith.

[revchuck38]

Damn, you folks are good. I had never heard of this before and I am glad to have learned about it now.

Is it only an issue with dry fire with an N-frame?

Or is an issue with dry fire because it is something that you will likely put many more reps in than with live fire?

thanks so much.

As it happened I picked up a cherry NY State Police S&W Model 28 a few months ago and have not had a chance to fire it. But I have done some dry firing with snap caps on a few occasions. If this is a problem I will stop forthwith.

Dang, that gun is so clean, no ring on the cylinder...WTF IS WRONG WITH YOU!?!?!?

[1slow]

In the 1970s-1980s, I was told that fast dryfire was hard on N frame S&W because the greater cylinder mass wore out the cylinder stops and more importantly and harder to fix the notches in the cylinder.

[Spartan1980]

Damn, you folks are good. I had never heard of this before and I am glad to have learned about it now.

Is it only an issue with dry fire with an N-frame?

Or is an issue with dry fire because it is something that you will likely put many more reps in than with live fire?

thanks so much.

As it happened I picked up a cherry NY State Police S&W Model 28 a few months ago and have not had a chance to fire it. But I have done some dry firing with snap caps on a few occasions. If this is a problem I will stop forthwith.

It depends. Are you impersonating Jerry Miculek? That'll do damage to all of them, it's just a question of how many reps it takes.

K frames and L frames I dry fire without worry. I dry fire my 625 too even with a full moon of 230 grain dummies loaded in it when practicing reloads. But I tend to be cognizant of the issue and focus on the fundamentals of sight alignment and trigger press mechanics when I do much more so than practicing a 2 second Bill drill. Short version is don't obsess over it, the guns will hold up fine for all intents and purposes. I think the value of dry fire is worth what little wear and tear on the gun will happen.

ETA: Nice 28! Was it even issued?