Help Choosing 10/22 Scope: All Purpose / No Budget Constraint $$$

[ASH556]

Based on your descriptors and your lack of budget constraints, I'd ignore the ".22 scope" part of the equation. For size, weight, and best overall in the conditions you describe, a Nightforce 2.5-10x24 with mil-dot reticle would be ideal.

Unless you're trying to zoom to 10X at 25yds (not required for field conditions), parallax is a non-issue. Parallax is generally adjusted to 50 or 25yds on rimfire scopes so you can use more magnification at closer ranges and hit smaller targets. For what you describe, this isn't what you need.

Personally, my go-to .22's wear Leupold 2-7x28 rimfire scopes with fine duplex reticles. This works for general target shooting and hunting. However, cost is a concern for me; especially since these aren't go-to long guns. My go-to long gun is an AR15 with a Nightforce NX8.

[BobM]

Personally, my go-to .22's wear Leupold 2-7x28 rimfire scopes with fine duplex reticles. This works for general target shooting and hunting. .

I have one of those on a compact Ruger American Rimfire in 22 magnum and I'm very happy with it. I'd like to put them on a couple other rifles.

[powell556]

Thanks for the replies so far. I'm overwhelmed looking at these options because I have almost no understanding of scopes. My only experience has been with 1x aimpoints.

My limited understanding is that you can use the knobs ("turrets"?) on top and side to zero the reticle to your load. And then you have two options. Either you use kentucky windage knowing your holdovers, either by eye or because of the hashmarks or mildots in the scope. Or maybe you can adjust the turrets in the field, in real time, to account for windage/elevation.

I'm also of the belief that the reticle has to be built around a certain bullet or round. I've seen there's different reticles in the same scope body for 5.56, 300 Black, and 7.62x51. I believe this has to do to with allowing the turret knobs to adjust for windage/elevation in the field. Like how the USGI A2 rear sight lets you click for elevation in 100 meter increments, and that rear sight was built around adjusting elevation for a 55 grain 5.56 round. If you use that rear sight for a 150+grain 762x51, then I doubt the clicks will adjust elevation in 100 meter increments.

One of the rifle scopes linked mentioned it was built around a 40 grain .22lr round. I don't have any experience shooting .22lr precision rounds. I've only ever shot bulk stuff through Glock and AR conversion kits. So now I'm confused more because maybe I wind up with a different precision round that isn't 40 grain?

I'm also wondering how big of a problem it will be that these scopes all look huge, meaning the height above bore will be significant. I could be wrong, but I think height above bore on an optic makes the trajectory of the bullet harder to remember. Like with an aimpoint on an AR, you hold over about 3" at short distances. I'm shooting at a squirrel, 3" holdover is like 2x to 3x the height of the squirrel. I suppose with mil dots, it doesn't really matter. I just know to use the 3rd mildot instead of center or whatever it comes out to be. With the AR on an aimpoint, the hold over of 3" means you put the reticle on the forehead and it hits the eye line. That's easy for me to get, because it's still a reference point on the target. But holding 3 inches in the air above a 2" target seems like it will take some getting used to.

Is there any good video series on YouTube that go over this stuff? There's so much crap on YouTube that it's hard to sift through.

My second thought is that I should probably drop the cash on an upgraded trigger. If I'm going to spend $1000 on a scope for a $200 gun, then putting a $250 (is what the volquartsen drop in costs) trigger in it, probably makes a lot of sense. Is volquartsen the best upgraded trigger? It's a brand name I've heard for many years when it comes to upgraded 10/22 parts.

[Holmes375]

With regard to triggers, my recommendation is Brimstone Gunsmithing. I've owned Volquartsen drop-ins, self modded triggers with Volquartsen components, etc, and I now run Brimstone worked triggers in all my 10-22s. A couple with their Tier-1 job, the rest are Tier-2 triggers.

One of the reasons I recommend a simple 4x fixed scope is because of its low mounting ability which works nicely with a factory style sporter stock. Its also lightweight, rugged and easy to use which seemed to fit in with your original post criteria.

I'll try to post some pics of one my rifles tomorrow so you can get a visual of the setup.

Here's Brimstone's site: http://brimstonegunsmithing.com/ruger-10-22/

You also might want to sign up at the Rimfire Central forum. Lots of experienced folks there with information on this very topic. Careful though, building custom rimfires can become rather addictive

[powell556]

With regard to triggers, my recommendation is Brimstone Gunsmithing. I've owned Volquartsen drop-ins, self modded triggers with Volquartsen components, etc, and I now run Brimstone worked triggers in all my 10-22s. A couple with their Tier-1 job, the rest are Tier-2 triggers.

One of the reasons I recommend a simple 4x fixed scope is because of its low mounting ability which works nicely with a factory style sporter stock. Its also lightweight, rugged and easy to use which seemed to fit in with your original post criteria.

I'll try to post some pics of one my rifles tomorrow so you can get a visual of the setup.

Here's Brimstone's site: http://brimstonegunsmithing.com/ruger-10-22/

You also might want to sign up at the Rimfire Central forum. Lots of experienced folks there with information on this very topic. Careful though, building custom rimfires can become rather addictive

Thanks I will check those out! Regarding the stock, I am not using the factory stock. I am using the Magpul stock. I have a cheekriser for it, too that I can use if desired.

[stomridertx]

And now for a completely different opinion:

I think an Aimpoint Micro or similar is the perfect optic for a survival .22. I use the Holosun HS503GU on mine, but one of the solar models would also be a good fit. A 2 MOA dot is plenty precise for the range of a .22, no real parallax to worry about, you can get on a critter fast. Any one can use it and hit what they can see.

[Holmes375]

And now for a completely different opinion:

I think an Aimpoint Micro or similar is the perfect optic for a survival .22. I use the Holosun HS503GU on mine, but one of the solar models would also be a good fit. A 2 MOA dot is plenty precise for the range of a .22, no real parallax to worry about, you can get on a critter fast. Any one can use it and hit what they can see.

Hard to argue that. I have an HS515BU on a 10/22 and quite like it. A Micro would indeed be a very nice solution for a compact plan.

[powell556]

And now for a completely different opinion:

I think an Aimpoint Micro or similar is the perfect optic for a survival .22. I use the Holosun HS503GU on mine, but one of the solar models would also be a good fit. A 2 MOA dot is plenty precise for the range of a .22, no real parallax to worry about, you can get on a critter fast. Any one can use it and hit what they can see.

I was hoping someone would suggest this. I already have a couple aimpoint t1 micros on hand on carbines. I was thinking of upgrading to a T2 and switching a t1 onto another gun.

But I assumed a t1 wouldn’t be good enough for small game out to 100 yards. Won’t the 2moa dot cover an entire squirrel at 100 yards?

Maybe I need to set reasonable expectations over what’s possible with a 10/22 takedown because maybe the aim point really is good enough to optimize the gun.

[stomridertx]

I was hoping someone would suggest this. I already have a couple aimpoint t1 micros on hand on carbines. I was thinking of upgrading to a T2 and switching a t1 onto another gun.

But I assumed a t1 wouldn’t be good enough for small game out to 100 yards. Won’t the 2moa dot cover an entire squirrel at 100 yards?

Maybe I need to set reasonable expectations over what’s possible with a 10/22 takedown because maybe the aim point really is good enough to optimize the gun.

2 MOA covers 2 inches of the target at 100 yards. If you ever see a 2 inch squirrel, he's probably not worth killing lol. In practical use, small game is usually taken 75 yards and in when using a .22lr. Also, if your brightness is set right a 2 MOA dot appears very tiny. Longer than that and you should move into .17hmr or more (not an absolute, just my opinion). I feel like lever guns and field/survival .22s are best served with a red dot sight.

[Poconnor]

I would get a primary arms red dot for a takedown. Take a look at the primary arms .22lr variables