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Thread: Dan Wesson 9MM Specialist Issue

  1. #21
    Frequent DG Adventurer fatdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Rural Central Alabama
    This happened to me on my DW Guardian 9mm but after about 2K rounds, new recoil spring solved the problem, I went up to a 14# (it is a commander slide) and no problems since.

    In the past I have had 9mm guns with too much rifling and not enough leade in front of that chamber that exhibited this behavior with certain bullet profiles, like some of the better JHP rounds, and it is why I still have a 9mm finish reamer (hand tool version) on my bench. That finish reamer has quickly fixed a Kahr, an early Walther PPS and a CZ 75B among others.
    Last edited by fatdog; 03-17-2019 at 12:56 PM.

  2. #22
    If it's not a chamber problem it's likely a barrel fit problem. The round part in front of the link will hit the slide stop and that's when it stops going into battery.

    A heavier recoil spring will cram it into battery, but it's about the same as just using more power to drive a car with flat tires.

  3. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by fatdog View Post
    This happened to me on my DW Guardian 9mm but after about 2K rounds, new recoil spring solved the problem, I went up to a 14# (it is a commander slide) and no problems since.

    In the past I have had 9mm guns with too much rifling and not enough leade in front of that chamber that exhibited this behavior with certain bullet profiles, like some of the better JHP rounds, and it is why I still have a 9mm finish reamer (hand tool version) on my bench. That finish reamer has quickly fixed a Kahr, an early Walther PPS and a CZ 75B among others.
    Quote Originally Posted by M2CattleCo View Post
    If it's not a chamber problem it's likely a barrel fit problem. The round part in front of the link will hit the slide stop and that's when it stops going into battery.

    A heavier recoil spring will cram it into battery, but it's about the same as just using more power to drive a car with flat tires.
    This was going to be my suggestion. If you have access to a finish reamer, there is a good chance that will solve your problem if it is user solvable. If you have access to some Dykem, slap some on the aforementioned area around your link and check it every 50 rds. This will help you see if it is likely a fitment issue that will definitely need to be sent back to DW.


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  4. #24
    On further consideration, the gun is going back to DW. The failures and completely poor QC on the firearm's finish was too much for me to "figure it out" after spending that amount of money. 4-6 week turnaround time on their gunsmith's bench to try and get it right......the second time.

  5. #25
    Site Supporter
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Georgia
    As I've said several times on this forum, if you buy a Dan Wesson 1911 you really need to follow the break-in process described in the owner's manual. If you contact DW for support, it is likely that they will ask whether the process was followed.

    There are several possible explanations for the issue including the recoil spring, even the chamber dimensions. But following the break-in process puts the ball squarely in DW's court if there is a problem.

  6. #26
    Site Supporter psalms144.1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bloomington, IN
    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    On further consideration, the gun is going back to DW. The failures and completely poor QC on the firearm's finish was too much for me to "figure it out" after spending that amount of money. 4-6 week turnaround time on their gunsmith's bench to try and get it right......the second time.
    Good choice. No way I'd spend that kind of money on a product then have to start swapping parts or reaming the chamber to get it to work!

  7. #27
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    I presently have 2 DWs in the safe, and was in and out of 2 more over the past couple of years (used as trades towards a Wilson EDC X9, not because of issues). I have enjoyed all of them, and none of my copies have had to return to the factory. However, 9mm 1911s are a bit more temperamental than their .45 counterparts. The specialist has a somewhat heavy slide, and thus in 9mm has a seemingly underpowered recoil spring. Unlike the now discontinued Valor series, additional hand-fitting doesn't happen on the Specialist, and thus really following the break-in procedure is just part of the game. Between this and MANY (if not all) other forums where 1911s, and more specifically where Dan Wessons are discussed - THIS (the inability to follow the manufacturer's instructions) is the single most unfollowed, dare I say absurd and abused aspect of ownership of a 1911, ESPECIALLY one with markedly tighter tolerances than a USGI repro.

    Without seeming hostile, I'll break this down a little further. As opposed to the processes used by several other 1911 manufacturers (expensive reliance on either loose tolerance OR excessive hand fitting) Dan Wesson achieves its feature-dense yet non-custom pricing by using ultra-precise machining for its major elements (Frame/Slide, etc.). While like all 1911s, some hand-fitting is needed, DW is relying on some wear-in to finish up that process. Thus – they provide detailed instructions that basically nobody follows. The process allows, quite simply, for parts to wear together, maintain adequate lubricity, as well as a medium for removing micro-filings as they wear together (thus the short lube and cleaning cycles). Followed religiously, I personally have had 0 issues outside of the recommended process (usually more like 300 rounds in my personal experience) assuming I used the recommended lubes and followed the process to the T.
    A 9mm 1911, even in somewhat compact size does not have the benefit of additional bullet mass to just cram things home through firing cycles making following the break-in procedure even more important (vs. a .45 or 10mm). Once that puppy is up and running, however, hang on tight.

    Lastly….it is hard to get finer customer service in this industry than with Dan Wesson. They will take care of the issue – I just personally always try to do my part first before potentially crying wolf with the factory – but that is just me.

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by tgoldie00 View Post
    I presently have 2 DWs in the safe, and was in and out of 2 more over the past couple of years (used as trades towards a Wilson EDC X9, not because of issues). I have enjoyed all of them, and none of my copies have had to return to the factory. However, 9mm 1911s are a bit more temperamental than their .45 counterparts. The specialist has a somewhat heavy slide, and thus in 9mm has a seemingly underpowered recoil spring. Unlike the now discontinued Valor series, additional hand-fitting doesn't happen on the Specialist, and thus really following the break-in procedure is just part of the game. Between this and MANY (if not all) other forums where 1911s, and more specifically where Dan Wessons are discussed - THIS (the inability to follow the manufacturer's instructions) is the single most unfollowed, dare I say absurd and abused aspect of ownership of a 1911, ESPECIALLY one with markedly tighter tolerances than a USGI repro.

    Without seeming hostile, I'll break this down a little further. As opposed to the processes used by several other 1911 manufacturers (expensive reliance on either loose tolerance OR excessive hand fitting) Dan Wesson achieves its feature-dense yet non-custom pricing by using ultra-precise machining for its major elements (Frame/Slide, etc.). While like all 1911s, some hand-fitting is needed, DW is relying on some wear-in to finish up that process. Thus – they provide detailed instructions that basically nobody follows. The process allows, quite simply, for parts to wear together, maintain adequate lubricity, as well as a medium for removing micro-filings as they wear together (thus the short lube and cleaning cycles). Followed religiously, I personally have had 0 issues outside of the recommended process (usually more like 300 rounds in my personal experience) assuming I used the recommended lubes and followed the process to the T.
    A 9mm 1911, even in somewhat compact size does not have the benefit of additional bullet mass to just cram things home through firing cycles making following the break-in procedure even more important (vs. a .45 or 10mm). Once that puppy is up and running, however, hang on tight.

    Lastly….it is hard to get finer customer service in this industry than with Dan Wesson. They will take care of the issue – I just personally always try to do my part first before potentially crying wolf with the factory – but that is just me.
    This is incorrect. Dan Wesson uses the exact same parts, and hand-fitting, in all their guns. The only differences are “features” (sights, ribbed slide, ball cuts, etc. Mainly cosmetic stuff). Years ago, when the Valor was considered their “flagship”, it did get extra attention in the QC department. However, several years ago (after their fire), DW brought all their guns up to the same standard as the Valor.

    As far as the break-in— I’ve never really worried about it on my DW’s. The main thing is to run them wet with the recommended lubes (I use FP-10). When I get a new one, I put some oil on the rails and the barrel every 50-100 rounds. That seems to work for me, and I’ve never had any issues.

  9. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Dayton, OH
    Quote Originally Posted by TC215 View Post
    This is incorrect. Dan Wesson uses the exact same parts, and hand-fitting, in all their guns. The only differences are “features” (sights, ribbed slide, ball cuts, etc. Mainly cosmetic stuff). Years ago, when the Valor was considered their “flagship”, it did get extra attention in the QC department. However, several years ago (after their fire), DW brought all their guns up to the same standard as the Valor.

    As far as the break-in— I’ve never really worried about it on my DW’s. The main thing is to run them wet with the recommended lubes (I use FP-10). When I get a new one, I put some oil on the rails and the barrel every 50-100 rounds. That seems to work for me, and I’ve never had any issues.
    I started using fp-10 with my first DW (A Valkyrie .45 CCO) and haven't looked back since. It is just about the only lube I use on anything these days (and for some odd reason I have grown to like the smell...lol). I am basically down to Ballistol as a solvant and FP-10 as a CLP/primary lube unless I shoot some slugs through the Shotgun....that requires a little more heft chemically speaking.

    My Valor is a 2016 production all stainless 9mm. I have had 2 Valkryies, have a Guardian (all duty-treat), and have handled numerous other Specialists in stainless (LOVE the Commander .45). As far a slide and frame treatment, I can say that my previously unfired Valor had significant polishing on the gripframe on/near the rails I have not seen on other all stainless DWs (not to say it doesn't happen, but I have not seen it). My pistol came from the deep dark recesses of a distributor, so it is not a custom piece, and definately was not fired prior to my purchase.
    Last edited by tgoldie00; 03-19-2019 at 10:13 AM.

  10. #30
    I’ve had toolmarks/evidence of fittings on the insides of all my stainless DW’s. The only guns I’ve had from them that felt like they were a notch above the rest were the three customs that I had made.

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