CZ75 Shadow 2

[wtturn]

They're fine guns.

You'll want a spare trigger return spring and slide stop.

You'll also want fatter grips.

Dry fire all you want, but don't dry fire from DA exclusively. You need to train realistically in multiple shot drills, which means pull the DA first shot then simulate the SA pull by not letting the trigger reset to DA.

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[finnesp]

Thanks a lot lads for your comments!

I definitely will go for the chubby rubber grips, and also keep an eye for those spare parts: triggervreturn spring and slide hold open.

Keeping the rails well lubbed is good advise, we don’t want friction between the parts that need to get along well

[Alpha Sierra]

I definitely will go for the chubby rubber grips

I don't think there are CZ rubber grips for the Shadow 2. The grips on it are not interchangeable with the 75 series including the Shadow 1.

Even if they were, I'd skip rubber and go straight for these: https://lokgrips.com/cz-gun-grips/cz...w-2/palm-swell

Same shape and profile as CZ 75 rubber grips but made to fit the Shadow 2.

[HeavyDuty]

I’ve had the low-grade hots for a CZ75 variant for years. I could very easily see having one of these. Nice!

[Alpha Sierra]

I’ve had the low-grade hots for a CZ75 variant for years. I could very easily see having one of these. Nice!

Careful, they're addictive

[Wondering Beard]

I'm not 100% sure about the hammer shape it's slightly awkard to thumb it down.

Could you go into more detail about that?

Specifically, the technique you use as well as when and why do you feel the need to do that.

If you are doing what I think you're doing (i.e. holding the hammer back, pressing the trigger to release the hammer and slowly letting the hammer go down under control of your thumb), I would suggest that you give up that practice immediately, as it is extremely unsafe. If it's something else, then I'm curious :-)

[finnesp]

Could you go into more detail about that?

Specifically, the technique you use as well as when and why do you feel the need to do that.

If you are doing what I think you're doing (i.e. holding the hammer back, pressing the trigger to release the hammer and slowly letting the hammer go down under control of your thumb), I would suggest that you give up that practice immediately, as it is extremely unsafe. If it's something else, then I'm curious :-)

Actually it’s related to dry firing, recovking the hammer manually, without racking the slide. I like my thumb too much to have it hammered to obvilion by ND

[Alpha Sierra]

Actually it’s related to dry firing, recovking the hammer manually, without racking the slide. I like my thumb too much to have it hammered to obvilion by ND

There's no need to cock the hammer in order to have an effective dry fire with a DA/SA handgun.

[ralph]

Careful, they're addictive

Yes, they are..I bought a CZ SP01 tactical, lightly used for $400, figuring it'd be a nice example to have... 3 years later, and now it's a OD green P07, P01, and recently, A Shadowline SP01.. Yeah, CZ's are addictive...

[archangel]

This is somewhat correct and mostly wrong.

CZ handguns with a firing pin block have a cross-slide roll pin to hold the firing pin (not the firing pin block) inside the gun. There's a shoulder on the firing pin that impacts against that roll pin when the hammer falls on the firing pin and there's no cartridge in the chamber to stop the firing pin. The firing pin block itself is held in place by the firing pin, not by the firing pin retaining pin. There are two options to dry fire a CZ that has a firing pin block without harming anything: use a snap cap in the chamber or place a small o ring in the hammer slot at the back of the slide. The o-ring there forms a cushion over the back of the firing pin and keeps the hammer from hitting the pin.

CZ handguns without a firing pin block do not have a firing pin retaining pin. They have a firing pin stop plate at the back of the slide. You can dry fire these without using snap caps or an o-ring under the hammer all day long. Neither the Shadow 1 nor the Shadow 2 have a firing pin block.

Oy. Yeah, I got that pretty wrong. I was thinking of the SP01, not the shadow 1, that has the roll pin. And that they have the pin if they have the block, but you are correct that the pin actually holds in the pin, not the block itself. Thanks for the correction.

Could you go into more detail about that?

Specifically, the technique you use as well as when and why do you feel the need to do that.

If you are doing what I think you're doing (i.e. holding the hammer back, pressing the trigger to release the hammer and slowly letting the hammer go down under control of your thumb), I would suggest that you give up that practice immediately, as it is extremely unsafe. If it's something else, then I'm curious :-)

Not what Wondering Beard was talking about, but manually lowering the hammer can in fact be done safely. An example of when you'd need to do that is every single person using a Shadow 2 in USPSA production (which is a lot). Rules state that you must start the course of fine in Double Action, and there's no decocker on the S2, so... manual de-cock it is. I know of at least 3 or 4 techniques for doing it safely.